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ATTN: Richard L please help asap!!!

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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 05:52 AM
  #16  
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Many parts on this kit were over-tightened to the point of part failure, It was actually suprising to find just how over-torqued, and therefor broken/stripped this fitting actually was. Installers need to pay WAY more attention when torquing a steel fitting into plastic threads.

Also E, I would ask about the intake fitting and how it was installed and if there is some type of nut on this inner face of the tubing. If not, we might need to make some provisions to safeguard that connection.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:04 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DougoeFre5h
Many parts on this kit were over-tightened to the point of part failure, It was actually suprising to find just how over-torqued, and therefor broken/stripped this fitting actually was. Installers need to pay WAY more attention when torquing a steel fitting into plastic threads.

Also E, I would ask about the intake fitting and how it was installed and if there is some type of nut on this inner face of the tubing. If not, we might need to make some provisions to safeguard that connection.
I did ask and he said that they didnt put a nut on the other side and it was also locktited. but me and u will take it off to make sure maybe this or next weekend.


ATTN*** Richard L the pics are on page one.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:16 AM
  #18  
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deadbeatrec - Try using the flower button on your camera next time for those close ups. Its called macro and will make a world of difference. Sorry to see the poor install job, but at least you are on your way to getting it fixed up.

Originally Posted by Richard L
Please don't use loctite 648 on plastic and metal. The 648 is for the jet adaptor, metal to metal only.
I am confused, that is what you suggested to me for leaky tank and bulkhead fitting. It also worked quite well.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:19 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
deadbeatrec - Try using the flower button on your camera next time for those close ups. Its called macro and will make a world of difference. Sorry to see the poor install job, but at least you are on your way to getting it fixed up.



I am confused, that is what you suggested to me for leaky tank and bulkhead fitting. It also worked quite well.
yes the flower button!!!!! ahhhhh i forgot. when i took it out i was so pissed off at what i found i forgot all about flowers. haha

richard what should these fittings be torqued to?
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:45 AM
  #20  
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For plastic to metal, it should never be torqued too much past hand-tight regardless of application. Once those plastic threads start to deform you get leaks. Id say JUST tight enough to get that o-ring pressed in, were talking in-lb here.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 06:47 AM
  #21  
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Please read my install DOC I beg you. It states to tighten all fittings hand tight and then do one more turn with a wrench. All fittings have 0-ring seals and therefor don't need high torque.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dudical26
Please read my install DOC I beg you. It states to tighten all fittings hand tight and then do one more turn with a wrench. All fittings have 0-ring seals and therefor don't need high torque.
thats funny because i printed your whole guide out and gave it to the installers as a guide. im sure the person installing it didnt read it or refer to it at all.

Last edited by deadbeatrec; Sep 18, 2007 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 08:15 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
thats funny because i printed your whole guide out and gave it to the installers as a guide. im sure they didnt read it or refer to it at all.
I know what you mean. I have done the same with shops before I started doing all my own work, they always did it without the guide and then wound up installing the washers incorrectly or torquing them improperly.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 08:18 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by dudical26
I know what you mean. I have done the same with shops before I started doing all my own work, they always did it without the guide and then wound up installing the washers incorrectly or torquing them improperly.
Funny thing is, they installed the meth level sensor so tight that the rubber destroyed itself. so they sent me a new one and i installed it without any problems.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 10:28 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec;

... now i am sending it over night to the shop that installed it and they say they are going to get me a new one with new fittings.

richard if u will, pm me and i will tell u who installed it and maybe u can help me out and get in contact with them. thanks

I will organise a new pump head to the shop.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 11:42 AM
  #26  
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i just want to let everyone know right now, i am not nor did i ever say anything derogatory towards the people who installed this kit onto my car. things happen and its unfortunate but like i said, **** happens.
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 08:25 AM
  #27  
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Just stating facts.
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Old Sep 19, 2007 | 08:47 AM
  #28  
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well i checked the tracking number and they have the pump in hand so now i just have to wait.
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 08:27 AM
  #29  
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threw a P0171 system too lean (bank 1) code. here is what im guessing happened....

saturday when i fixed the flow level sensor and i got on full boost, all the meth wasnt getting into my UICP because it was spraying into my trunk. so 2 days later (monday, i didnt drive th car sunday due to the pump) the code come on. so me thinking it was maybe a P0300 code, just un hooked the battery thinking it would clear itself. nope! it came back yesterday. so i went to avanced auto parts, read the code and its too lean. now i have not gotten on the car at all since the pump issue so i dont think its too lean now, daily driving.

any thoughts? i was told maybe the meth burned out the sensor or at least its a possibilty.

does mitsu charge $ to reset the code?
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Old Sep 20, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #30  
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Auto zone or advanced auto should clear it for you for free.

If not I can't imagine the dealer would charge you.

Do you have a tactrix cable? Just reset it yourself.
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