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Safe place to mount HSV?

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Old Nov 16, 2007, 02:04 PM
  #31  
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Do the components generate heat of their own that requires cooling airflow? If you have them in a generally cool spot, is there any reason not to stick them in a sealed box (like a plastic "project box")?
Old Nov 16, 2007, 03:22 PM
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I do not think the components themsleves generate much heat on there own. Not much amps are going through them.

Sometimes with the way cars are packed under the hood some spots have dead spots, its hard to tell where these are. If the W/A components get mounted in one of these dead spots it can be tough on them.....mounting the components in areas away from heat OR getting airflow to them insures heat is at a minimum where they are located.
Old Nov 16, 2007, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard L
The HSV makes a very similar noise to engine knock when activated, especially onto a panel surface. rubber mount will dampen the sound level.

If there are no damaging heat there, cooling by convection is adequate.

I think putting the HSV and flow sensor into a plastic tube will prevent direct water splash. Road salt on winter roads is most unpleasant for any metal components.
What sort of plastic tube? Do you have a link or picture?

I have been working all night here, I think I mounted it in a very cool way. Its nearly done, I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I finish. Everything is mounted in the wiper area. The HSV, Flow sensor, all wires to the solenoid and battery are all hidden underneath the wiper cover. The wiper cover is pretty easy to remove as well. Pull off the wipers and 6 plastic clips and thats it. You can take the whole thing off in two min with pliers and 12mm wrench. I placed all the wires in a protective cover. I plan on putting heat shrink tubing over the connectors to ensure they don't get wet.

I just need to protect the HSV and flow sensor from water now.

I hope this turns out as well as it looks like it might.
Old Nov 17, 2007, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dudical26
What sort of plastic tube? Do you have a link or picture?

I have been working all night here, I think I mounted it in a very cool way. Its nearly done, I'll take some pictures tomorrow when I finish. Everything is mounted in the wiper area. The HSV, Flow sensor, all wires to the solenoid and battery are all hidden underneath the wiper cover. The wiper cover is pretty easy to remove as well. Pull off the wipers and 6 plastic clips and thats it. You can take the whole thing off in two min with pliers and 12mm wrench. I placed all the wires in a protective cover. I plan on putting heat shrink tubing over the connectors to ensure they don't get wet.

I just need to protect the HSV and flow sensor from water now.

I hope this turns out as well as it looks like it might.



http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=141
Old Nov 17, 2007, 03:40 AM
  #35  
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Talking

Originally Posted by EVO8LTW;
Do the components generate heat of their own that requires cooling airflow? If you have them in a generally cool spot, is there any reason not to stick them in a sealed box (like a plastic "project box")?

The HSV draws about 1A at 13V. at 100% DC. Power consumption is 13W. Depending on the duty cycle and how frequent you use it, the heat dissipation varies.

Analysing the operating conditions:

Heat gain:
1. Heat produced by the HSV
2. Ambient heat absorbed by the HSV by conduction (still air)
3. Ambient heat absorbed by the HSV by convection (moving air)
4. Ambient heat absorbed by the HSV by radiation (hot objects near-by)
5. Heat absorbed by HSV from the liquid going through it.

Heat loss:
1. Heat loss by the HSV by a liquid going through.
2. Heat dissipated by the HSV to the ambient by conduction (still air)
3. Heat dissipated by the HSV to the ambient by convection (moving air)
4. Heat dissipated by the HSV to the ambient by radiation (HSV is the hot object)

Heat gain - heat loss = HSV body temperature rise.

- When Heat rise+ ambient temperature = final temperature
- When final temperature is greater than the HSV's maximum operating temperature, the valve fails.

If the HSV is placed inside an sealed box. The situation changes drastically. The heat generated by the HSV is now raising the ambient temperature within the sealed box. If the box is made with metal, it will transfer some heat inside the box to the outside. A box made with plastic will not transfer enough heat out of the box so the operating environment become worse.

If the HSV's body is thermally connected to the metal box, temperature rise of the HSV will drastically reduce by conduction. Provided the there are enough surface areas to loose heat by the usual means, convection, etc ... This is the best solution but complicated.

Used on some WRC cars:


Last edited by Richard L; Nov 17, 2007 at 05:43 AM.
Old Nov 17, 2007, 08:56 AM
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Richard - Do I want to try and seal off the end of the tube?

The solid tube seems like it will make my mounting location impossible and I will have to slightly revise it. Could I just use split wire loom. Like this?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

That way I can still have the mounting bracket on the bottom and it should still keep it from direct rain water. Does the flow sensor also need to be protected?
Old Nov 17, 2007, 09:41 AM
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Tube is the easier item to mount - so many choices for the hose clip when goolgled. I can't see why you couldn't use the split loom.

Do not seal the ends, airflow is important. Purpose is to prevent the components from direct water splash. I admit I have not tried it myself, just an idea that might work.
Old Nov 17, 2007, 10:54 AM
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I bought some different sizes of loom and heat shrink and some other tubing. I am going to play around with it all and see what I can come up with.
Old Nov 17, 2007, 02:05 PM
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Alright I finished the install work. I covered everything in split loom tubing. Take a look and tell me what you think.

http://www.skidmore.edu/~a_blaker/Car/HFS-5/Re-Install/
Old Nov 17, 2007, 02:44 PM
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You have really been busy. This is the only time I see the air vents. I may made a mis-judgement becasue this area cab get really wet.

A few constructive comment:

1) There might not be enough air flow for the HSV for cooling purpose.
2) Due the corrugation construction of the wire loom, water may be trapped inside the loom. A cocktail of dampness and warmth, corrosion can set in quite quickly. All magnetic stainless has high concentration of iron, can corrode if the water contain some road salt.

When I suggested the clean tube, I was meaning to suggest a 2" OD, smooth wall. water just slight across it - wind dry due to two open ends.

If the HSV is not running continuously, I think self heat is not a problem. Open up the cable loom on track days.

I am sorry to make things more complicated - it was a pity that I did know how generous those vents are until your recent pictures.

I suggest sealing up the wire loom from the top and leave the underside exposed. (1/2 to 3/4 round). I like the rest of the assembly. What are the orange bits underneath the HSV clip?
Old Nov 18, 2007, 09:39 AM
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the wire loom is slightly open from the underside due to the tabs for the HSV sticking out and holding it open.

The orange spots are small rubber o-rings that I used two off to isolate the HSV's vibrations. They are actually used for RC car suspension parts, lol.
Old Nov 18, 2007, 10:06 AM
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I think the HSV will survive. Didn't see gap underneath.

Let me know if you can hear the HSV clicking.
Old Nov 18, 2007, 10:13 PM
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looks clean dudical. i think i will relocate like yours.
how about exposure to water? is it safe from getting wet?
Old Nov 19, 2007, 07:36 AM
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well water does go into that area as it is sort of a drain of point. However, I mounted the unit on the wall so it will not be sitting at the bottom of the space getting wet. I also put wire loom around it to protect it from direct water splashing on it. It may get a little wet but should not be too bad.
Old Nov 19, 2007, 08:22 AM
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We shall see after six month, possibly the worse portion of the year.


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