i have been reading that m3 is the stuff to go with, but what is the difference between the two? m1 and m3?
thanks

and if you try to search m1 or m3 nothing comes up. word is to short

 

stick to M1

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/spec/Te...--Methanol.doc

M3 and M5 has additives added that might lessen the reliability of wetted parts in a wai system

 

I picked up 10-12whp trying out the M3... Not worth the extra money....

 

i can get the m3 for 3.xx a gallon. and by that doc slow car it says m3 is the way to go

 

stick to M1...

M1TM - M1 is the best straight methanol on the market. No frills, but consistently 99.85+% pure and always packaged in lined drums, as are all VP fuels. That means no contaminants and peace of mind from knowing you don’t have to deal with fuel issues. When fuel rules require the use of straight methanol with no additives, M1 is the best option.

M3TM - M3 contains combustion and lubrication additives that improve vaporization and increase burning speed. These factors, combined with a better seal of the rings due to the lubrication additive, make substantially more power than straight methanol—up to a 50 Hp gain in a 1030 Hp engine. The improvement in throttle response is also significant—up to a 5% increase in torque across a wider rpm range. On-track results indicate a .02-.03 improvement in ET in the 1/8 mile. The improved combustion also helps the thermal efficiency of the air/fuel mixture. This expands the range of ignition, contributes to better ‘startability’ and more consistency run to run, while lowering the exhaust temperature 40-100°. Not only will M3’s improved combustion make more power and offer better protection against detonation, it also inhibits the noxious fumes you typically get with standard methanol, so it’s much easier on your eyes and nose. A somewhat unexpected benefit of M3 is a 30% decrease in fuel consumption. That means if you typically use 40 gallons over a race weekend, you’ll only need about 25-30 gallons of M3. M3 also includes an anticorrosion package, so there’s no need to add anything else to address lubrication or corrosion issues.

To maintain the original properties and comply with Health and
Safety regulations, this fuel should be handled and stored in a cool
place and always maintained in tightly sealed drums.
Property/
Typical Values
M1
M3
M5 Test
Methods
Specific Gravity
@ 60F
.795
.784
.816
ASTM D 4052
Reid Vapor
Pressure
4.60
8.57
7.66
ASTM D 323
Color Clear Clear Clear

Since M3 is not pure methanol, it won’t pass a water test. But where permitted, it will substantially improve performance in 60-70% of all applications, requiring no jetting or timing changes—just pour it in and get up to 5% more Hp. However, not every vehicle will run quicker with M3. For example, in applications that typically run very rich, M3’s improved vaporization will lead to less volumetric efficiency, such that the car will run faster MPH, but stumble at the launch. In most of these instances, jetting changes will reverse that effect. In carbureted systems, smaller squirters and less aggressive pump cams will be required, while injection systems will require leaning out the idle system (not the main system). For customers who want more power but prefer not to deal with these adjustments, M5 will be the best option.

M5TM – M5 is simply the best performing methanol on the market. With its upgraded combustion additives, M5 will make more power than M3, while offering the same or better protection against detonation. Like M3, M5 offers a wider range for tuning, as reflected by the fact that the bracket racers who have helped us in testing have experienced no problems with tuning or tuning consistency. M5 also reduces noxious methanol fumes, although not as well as M3. That means that while M5 is the best choice for making the most power in unrestricted applications, M3 will still be the best option for some venues, notably enclosed stadiums. M5 is not pure methanol and won’t pass a water test.

 

m1 is for cars that use meth as to help out with temps. M3 is pretty much for cars that run on straight meth. Our lines are internals are not designed for the m3...not worth it in the long run.
- jeff

 

remember this is for injection and not an alternative to fuel

 

I believe I just said that? Stick to M1 and move on unless you're going to go all out and have a setup to replace regular gasoline w/ Methanol.

 

guess if you read this it doesnt seem that way.

 

and slow car why do you say m1?
i have read alot on here people use m3

 

reading the doc gives you a strong indication what the additives are...very few compounds that will "improved combustion also helps the thermal efficiency of the air/fuel mixture"...nitromethane is one

polymeric parts within the pump head and solenoid valve have low resistance to stuff like that - stick to M1

also do check the meth you buy from open containers:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ighlight=milky

 

F.Y.I. Aquamist stands behind the use of M1 or methanol thats as close to pure methanol as possible. M3 and M5 contain additives that are NOT W/A injection component friendly over the long term. Methanol can be sourced from other suppliers as well and are also close to pure (99%).........just using VP M1 as an example.

Purchase sealed containers of methanol and careful with whats used to transfer the methanol to the W/A supply tank. The use of things such as funnels should be dedicated to methanol and not also used for other fluids like tranny or engine oil.

Some performance shops are not careful to limit possible cross contamination so check what you buy OR ask questions prior to buying.

Keep everything clean, unused methanol and containers should stored safely and securely...........keep the kids away OR educated, methanol is nasty stuff and kids do not typically care to read labels and comprehend the dangers.

 

thank you