Can anybody provide some answers on the setup for the Aquamist HFS-1 system. I've completed the installation and have a few questions:

1. Can I set the SC, SW, and SL using the test button rather than going for a test drive?

2. I connected the EBC boost cut failsafe and recently got a CEL code (P0243 or P0254, can't remember) saying I had a wastegate solenoid malfunction. I believe the remedy for this is to solder the resistor to the DDS3 board but I can't find it in the kit I received from KevinD. Where can I get this solenoid.

 

2, the resister can be had at radioshack for $1, I'll have to look and see what it is. Probably a 1/4 or 1/2 watt 5k resistor, or something like that (WILD guess).

1, best to do it while driving, so you can see what the kit is doing and know what it feels liek when the boost cut kicks in.

 

pm me your address, I will send you one.

 

Richard, you are great guy!

It's hard driving and adjusting those POT switches at the same time...

 

Are you triggering by IDC, if so do you know what IDC levels you hit? If you come close to 100% IDC then you should be able to set the trims using the test button. The test button will simulate 100% IDC so if you are only hitting 80% idc then you may want to set the trims with the test button and then turn them down accordingly anticipating a slight reduction in flow in real driving situations compared to the test buttons 100% simulation.

Either way you will have to do a bit of driving to make sure they are completly dialed in but the button will help you get there quicker.

 

which version of the board did you get? the newer ones have the resistor already on them. if yours doesn't i apologize for not including it (i usually don't even take those parts out of the box).

if richard hasn't already sent you one, i have quite a few of them from installs here that didn't use them.

 

since he is running the HFS-1 triggering it with the test button and dialing in the guage is perfectly fine. the IDC doesn't effect the flow rate of the meth, only the triggering point.

sometimes it takes a little fine tuning on the road though as testing it stationary doesn't show the effect of a differential pressure in the intercooler pipe.

also make absolutely sure that if you hit the test button either the car is running, or the nozzles are NOT in the upper intercooler pipe. if you test it with the car off and then try to start it liquid meth can pool and be ingested into the engine (i.e. hydrolock) when you do start it.

 

 

KevinD, Richard has already sent out a resistor for me....guess I'll be working on my soldering skills.

Thanks to all of you guys for answering my questions and giving me assistance on this install. Now I'll go try and apply what you've told me and get back to you. Thanks again!