Well just yesterday my labonte failsafe has been be activated immediately after spray and stays activated til i let off.

Few hours before that I was boosting fine and everything was working perfect, I didnt chang anything but the failsafe goes off on its own.

Ive checked lines and everything and everything seems in good working order. Only problem is my low level fluid light isnt working properly, since it was on for 3 days straight since I was low on meth, then it just stopped working... so maybe the bulb just burned out on its own. And I have my trip point set at 200 or 250 something like that. Should I move it to what it should correspond with my m12 nozzle?

If any1 can help me out, thanks.

Contact Tamer - (4ws tuning) . He's a reseller and should know enough to help you with the Labonte kit, and I think LaBonte has their own representative on the forums too!

GL and let me know how it worked out, I'm a future labonte kit user too!

ya i found the problem i believe. The AN fitting from my pump to the control unit was dribbling some meth. It was doing that cause i had my meth line at a small angle so the orange piece was semi depressed due to the angle so it allowed the dribbling. So the failsafe just sense a decrease in flow and it was activated..least i know its doing its job lol.

Other than that ive had no other problems with my kit, it works awesome and installation was a breeze. Been using it for few months now and have gone thru maybe 10+ gallons of meth with my fpgreen and m12 nozzle. And Dan from labonte has been helping me on thru pms and hes an awesome guy to ask questions.

+100 dan help me alot the passed month with my kit

I have the opposite problem. I cant get my failsafe signal to work. I only measured like 1V during a failsafe condition (glogged line and disconnected ground on pump). I sent it back for repair but it still does the same thing but the flow gauge was repaired at least. Dan was really great on getting the repaired one back to me. ONly took him like 1 day to repair. That is fast service.

I have this failsafe also. I was wondering if I can wire in a switch to the failsafe to indicate a false failsafe. This way I can run low boost with no injection for times if other people drive it like valet drivers. Would this be safe to do? Can I cruise around like this and use this switch as a power switch for when I really need it? My thinking is it would kind of be like using 2 maps with the flip of a switch. Or is this to good to be true?

im thinking valet mode with tephras map switching is your best bet.

hey guys I am having similar failsafe woes. I have the VC25, IFS 100, and FCS 10 with the failsafe and MBC. I wired it up just like the diagram explains and the kit worked flawlessly for about 1 month. shortly after the pump failed which was replaced in 2 days. (dan rocks at labonte) After reinstalling the pump, i trace a problem to the FCS-10. It would work when the pump activated but once you let off or take away the boost source it would close and stay closed. I checked all my grounds and everything is wired an soldered correctly. I am going to call dan when I get out of work since he has been awesome with helping anyone who needs it. any help here would be awesome though. thanks

well same problem has come back again...i brought it to dan last sept to let him take a look at it and the problem was the controller had a clog and he switched it out. So hopefully its something super ez to fix.

well guys It looks like a replacement VC25 did the trick. preliminary bench testing shows the FCS-10 giving me the juice when there is boost. so now I just have to iron out the kinks in the tune and tweak it back. So far so good.

I will note that my VC25 now has a wire dedicated to the FCS10 off the second pin on the harness. I feel this may have been the fix.

well talked to dan, he ran my controller with a tube and blew on it and it didn't make the noise....ran it thru water for a bit and finally it made the cazoooo noise. Im using power mist methanol, he said it was drying out the components maybe due to some type of lube on the inside of the controller so ill be using a 80/20 mix now instead of 100.

This happened last sept and we replaced it, this time we just ran it thru water for awhile and it started to work again.

how long did you have to run it through water? because I am thinking that I have the EXACT same problem, and at this point it is the only part of my kit that Dan has not swapped out for me. I hooked up a tube and blew through it. sounded like air through a straw. no kazzoo sound. I am also using power mist methanol.

yeah dude same problem, I bet if u switched co trollers you'd be good. We ran it forward and reversed with water for about a min. I'm thinking of switching to vp or.. *gasp* going an 80/20 mix with the power mist.

I am going to run water through it tomorrow. also going to try to switch the plumbing so it goes through the fail safe backward as well in an attempt to dislodge anything that may be in there. Did you use warm water or cold water? and where do you get your power mist from?

I get my powermist from local shop. The water i have no idea, prolly just room temp? He has a kit out on his work bench just for testing purposes.