I've been running WWF and HEET for over a year now. I also have over a dozen guys doing the same thing. I spray with an M12 as well. So there's a TON of flow going through there. I don't get hard water stains anywhere. If you are having those kinds of problems you are using the wrong brand of WWF.

I do it this way because it is simpler. I can get WWF and HEET ANYWHERE I go. So if I were to have a bad leak, or get caught with my pants down (without meth) I can fill up ANYWHERE. I know my ratios... I have looked at all available brands around here's MSDS's. So it's what I run. I could get pure meth, and intended too. Except I haven't had a single problem running the WWF. So I just never bothered. I have guys on both coasts running LMS kits with WWF and dis/meth setups. Ranging from 50/50 and up. Some of these guys are spraying redonkulous amounts of meth to beat the 91 oct Cali gas hump. Nobody has problems with the LMS kits.




As for the rest of the failsafe conversation...

Like I said, I don't run any kind of fail safe, flow gauge... none of it. I have the activation LED in my cluster bezel, a low tank LED next to it. And that's that. I have the kit set up to come on at 8psi, and go to max duty at 25psi. My fueling is tailored around it with ecuflash. I don't have any electro-gadgetry doing ANYTHING else. Even though pro has meth in/outputs. Honestly you don't NEED ANY of that stuff. I have never seen any group of enthusiasts over complicate something quite like this, that should be so so so simple. No map switching, no low boost, no meth mode... that's ALL unnecessary. What the hell do you need a low boost mode for? To beat on your car a little less when there is a problem? Why the hell wouldn't you just drive it normally if there was a problem? Stay out of boost / and fix the problem and resume where you were before? None of that ever made ANY sense to me whatsoever. If something's wrong - you fix it, THEN go back to beating the daylights out of a healthy car.

As far as a fail safe, and bypasses... I have the CEL on knock patch. If my CEL flashes, I get out of it. Everyone else should have this too and be competent enough to pay attention to what their car is doing when asking as much as we do from them. It's the same scenario that would happen if my WG line popped off, its same scenario as if I lost an injector, or... something else. It's no different. If you don't ghetto hack your install, it will be as reliable as anything else.

Labonte makes tough kit that will take d/d abuse. This same car see's winter. Yes I drive it in SNOW. ICE, 20* -20*... I drove it all winter spraying meth just like I did in the summer. It just works. So I just have never personally seen a need to add additional complexity to the situation. It's easy to tune, I get a butt load more timing ALL OVER. And I can run a bunch more boost at A/F ratio's I would have laughed at a year ago on pump gas. That's good enough for me. I'm not looking to break world records in a barely mid frame turbo'd street car.

And I don't have the time or patience to spend 15 hours fooling with intricate micro adjustments based on 15 parameters for adjusting the onset of meth. It's just not needed. If it's your hobby, and you WANT to fool with sh*t, by all means, drop $1k on an aquamist kit and piddle around to your hearts content.

I just wanted the benefit of methanol injection without the heavy price tag, or ridiculous amounts of fooling around for my customers. That's why I opened an account with Labonte. Dan backs his stuff 200%. He's available, he knows what he is doing, and is great for me, and my customers to deal with. I'm not knocking the quality of anyone else's kits either. These just fit my needs, and my customer's needs, while remaining affordable, and still offering the option of the FS IF the customer requires it. I deal with a 75/25% mix of DSM/EVO people. And I don't think there are 2 DSM people on earth that would drop $1k on a meth kit.

If there is, I haven't met one yet.

In the end, this is just my experience, and my opinion. Always do what you think is best for your own car. (Unless you have NO idea WTF you are doing!)

 

^^^ok thanks for the info. what size tank u run? can u sell me a kit? shipped to 87124?

 

I agree with you Dustin 100%. The isg-s3 has the internally flow disruption alert but other than that I dont have anything. I didnt get the fluid level switch because of funds but I plan to make my own tank soon. Im just using the 3 qt tank that came for free with the kit. Its not bad filling it up usually like every time I fill up the gas tank.

The isg I think has been working wonders for me. Ive increased timing like you a whole lot across the board with boost up at 30psi. Car feels great. Im gonna go out and do some speed/rpm logs for DLL which I dl last night.

Heres some pics of my kit install and car if you'd like.

 

I use the stock reservoir tank. I tapped it in the place where the second pump would have gone since I have an RS. The down side is I have to spray 50/50 on my windshield. The upside is the stock tank is form fitted to the contour of the trunk space. And I don't have to have another tank stuffed into the other side of the car.

And it's a gallon.

However you want to do it is fine, as any of the LMS kits COME with a 3qt tank minimum.

 

ok so i think ill go with the lms kit. what power u put down on the dyno, i have almost the exact mods as asmodeus minus the turbo(going red soon) and how many pounds of boost would you say is safe to run on stock internals for 91 oct pump gas. since your a vendor for them...anyway for a lil cheaper through u???

 

I was at a bit of a loss for what to really do next once I got the turbo kit on and turned up. Went through knocking all the leaks out, then switched over to SD with the maf-pro. Got to about 25psi and started playing the more boost, less timing game with diminishing return. With the LMS kit I picked up about 9-10lb/min going to about 31-32psi. I was also able to increase timing throughout the midrange and top end. Basically as soon as the meth kicked on.

No dyno but the *** dyno on this car though. Sorry. Again, this is just a toy, but a toy that gets driven every single day. I started seeing signs the turbo wasn't going to take it for very long @ that pressure level so I knocked it down to 28psi. Added a little timing and leaned it up a touch. Car still makes fun power all over. I hurt the tranny too at 32psi after a bad launch on a hot day.

So I knocked it down a couple psi and it seems to be holding up across the board at this point. I have had no problems with the motor to date. (I'm going to kick myself for saying that I'm sure.) I found the beginning of the limits of the transmission so far, and not the motor.

Still stock rod bolts too. Untouched, unopened motor. Just cams, and a conservative red line. I spin to about 7800.

If your plans are RED, you will make stupid power with meth. Better than I can do with the 3076R. Meth will unlock that last 25-30% of what it can offer. But buff the midrange and enhance spoolup and knock resistance as well.

 

I drive my car the same way as you dustin. Except Im still playing with boost. My timing is down a little bit with the new gm bcs in I wanted to push the boost lvl's more. Im at 30psi at the moment holding 29 psi till 5k where it tapers to 23 psi at 7500. Timing considering though is still 4-5 degrees peak and about 18 up top.

So far all I have is the *** dyno too. It does feel like a totally different car for sure. Layed down 12.3@115 with a 1.7 60' this was 2 weeks ago on 26-27 psi on my old hks evc. This friday we'll see what I can do with the 30 psi on the gm bcs.

Also still stock block,rod bolts, and head studs. My tranny is holding up though. Beat on it everyday. Also have toyota oem fluids in it I believe. I had my friend put the tranny in. Hes much older than me more of my friends dad. But hes a great mechanic and I trusted him. Its felt great since day one after my clutch install which was about 2 1/2 years now 20k miles maybe 30k.

 

I haven't sold a VCS3G kit yet, so I haven't had a chance to really play with one yet. How are you liking that controller?

 

Install is straight forward and easy. The pump I mounted in the spare tire well under my metal mat.

As for the controller the peak mode is nice and it seems very accurate between IDC and boost with evo scan's results. Its also nice because it shows you if you what % your jet is at.

It seems to inject the perfect amount because the car loves it. Still got some work tuning but its still putting out.

Im hoping to go to ECS performance in CT to put it on there mustang dyno to see what its putting down. When I was in Ohio I put it on Buschurs on a **** as old tune and it was making 288/288.

That was before re-tuning on the road and now the meth.

 

I use and love WWF, get the peak -20 or -25. Other brands have soaps in them and can be bad. Shake the bottle, if it bubbles up and then goes all away after like 5 seconds your all good, if it bubbles up and sticks around you know its got soaps and such in it. DONT BUY THOSE, do the test always. Walmart for great price, Sams club for a lot of it at an even better price, buy it by the case. its like 1.50 or less per gallon.

 

Good info!

 

Dustin's head is full of alllllll kinds of random crap.

i pick his brain frequently.

 

yeah he seems like he has researched this alot before going for it. im trying this also and so far i think im gonna go for meth

 

Another good read: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/for...uid-2-926.html

 

yeah it was^^ any1 running th de-natured alchy from home depot??