A few days ago, I noticed the LED light to my meth kit was blinking off and on. Sometimes it would light up as soon as I hit 1 psi boost and above, just eratical lighting up and blinking. Today I go to start the car up and hear this god awful "surge" sound coming from the back. I walk back to hear the Labonte meth pump making all types of noises. The noice actually shakes the meth lines. I have been running 100% denatured alcohol and believe one of the bearing might have blown or something to that effect. Attached is a video to better understand what I'm talking about. Any suggestions if it's blown or salvageable? I checked all lines, took off the nozzle at the UICP to make sure there were no blockages which there weren't. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Tank was almost 3/4 full of alcohol so it never ran dry on me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imhWwrVyT4U

 

The bearings are shot how long have you been running 100% denatured alcohol for???Also did the safe injection work??

 

I want to say close to 1 1/2 years, possibly longer. I thought it was safer than running meth. This sounds bad, but no failsafe installed. I have the kit, guess it's time to put it on, eh? Luckily no engine damage done to my ride.

 

Put that condom on!

 

LOL, yeah I quickly learned my lesson No mapswitch installed so I'll be cruising in the wife's ride until this gets replaced. Already ordered another pump this afternoon, hope to be cruising by the weekend.

 

Your better off running vp m1 the best meth you can get clean and pure..Also you should buy the safe injection and a 3port mac valve for added safety!!I would also run tephra v7 with dual map switching or a bit rick afr's like 11.2..

 

Yes I have the IFS-10 and BBK-20 along with the BBK-10 solenoid already, just waiting on the new pump to arrive and looks like it'll be here Monday. I have the 3 port MAC valve, but not sure if I need it if all these work. Ordered the Jack of Trades mapswitch so will be running Tephras mod as soon as I get all this installed. My first kit, Coolingmist, completely died on me, so went with Labonte and after this time, figured I was lucky and need to put the extra precautions on. I'm debating on going 50/50 denatured since it's easier to find. The local racetrack has it, but once it shuts down for the season I'll have to search elsewhere. Plus I keep hearing denatured is not as corrosive as meth.

 

OK so got the replacement pump, install, turn it on and the same exact noise coming from the pump. I look into the engine bay and alcohol is squirting out at the connection between the inlet hose and the solenoid. I purchase 2 day air mail solenoid. yesterday it arrived, put the new solenoid on, same exact thing!! One thing I noticed is that when I take the hose leading to the intake off the pump runs normal. Once I reconnect and the liquid hits the solenoid, the noise is heard once again. I checked all connections to ensure there were no mysterious kinks in the hose and did not find any. The only thing left to replace is the main controller and nervous about buying that as well since my wife isn't too happy with me spending this money on parts that don't fix the problem. Any other suggestions on what it could possibly be?

 

If you connect the same piece of tubing into a new fitting and you still get a leak then it's the tubing. The push-to-connect fittings have little gripping "teeth" inside of them and they mar the nylon. Everytime you insert and remove the tubing from the fitting it leaves a little grove or wear spot. The more you insert and remove the tubing the more it wears down the tube.

Also, inside the fitting is an o-ring. The tubing inserts through the o-ring and then butts up against a shoulder that stops the tubing from being pushed in further. If the tubing is not cut squarely or if the cut is jagged or if the tubing is ovalized you can have a leak. You will also get a leak if the tubing is worn down too much from being put in and removed from a fitting too much.

I would try cutting about an inch off the end of your tubing with a new razor blade (careful - don't cut yourself). Make sure the cut is square and make sure you don't smash the tubing.

The surging you're seeing is probably from the bypass valves fluttering from the rapidly changing pressure. These chamber type pumps are very pulsey by nature and this leak you have must be amplifying these pulses. If you remove the line there is little to no pressure so you probably won't see any surging.

I really do not think you have a problem with your controller. This sounds purely mechanical.