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HFS-5 double pulse PROBLEM once again!.. VIDEO inside

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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 03:19 PM
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From: Woodbridge, VA
Red face HFS-5 double pulse PROBLEM once again!.. VIDEO inside

5495389918 -A.C
SORRY FOR THE SHAKEy VIDEO

this was the original thread
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/wa...000cc-inj.html

well once again i continue to have problems with my aquamist hfs-5 v10
let me clear up everything ive done before we start


-ive replaced ALL the push in fittings with compression fittings from howertonengineering.com
-replaced ALL tubing with nylon lines
-replaced the pump seal with brass plate and new oring
-upgraded 1000cc injectors
-double pulse method was used with 2 4007 diodes going to injector1 and 3
-using ONE 1.0mm jet (inbetween bov and tb)
-trim adj was adjusted to about 60% and up and still acting up
-using 100% denatured Alcohol


anywho i TRIED my best to capture a video of the gauge while im at wot but kinda hard to look at the road, hold camera, shift, hold steering wheel and make sure the camera is focused on gauge sooo sorry in advance

basically the flow meter will flicker on and off like theres a bad ground, while randomly triggering the fail safe then switching back and forth to spraying. the double pulse method worked at first when it was done, flow meter acted smoothly all the way to redline like its suppose to. so i went to go tune and found out my clutch was slipping so i left the car in the garage until i got my twin disc installed with empty meth tank.. so after a month or so of sitting i go and refil the tank and try it out.. and i come across this problem.. afrs are reading 10.0.. could that be causing the random flicking of fail safe and spraying??

GETTING TIRED OF THIS SHeeT RANDOMLY FawkIN UP! sooo someone please make it stop!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1jx35pbtIc

have this setup with ONE 1.0mm jet


Last edited by Darkn3s; Jan 26, 2011 at 06:46 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 03:35 PM
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should i tap into injector #1 and #4 instead of #1 and #3 like ive done

or does it even matter?
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 06:56 AM
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First, You should tap into injectors #1 & #4 (ECU pin 1 & 2 as diagram). The reason is that the firing sequence is 1-3-4-2 on our engine so 1 & 4 are a 50% cycle all the way long. If you really install your diodes on 1 & 3, you actually have a double followed pulse and then 2 empty firing shots. It works but it is not like a smooth sequence...
Then, when I watch your video, I have a doubt with the "level" LED... It seems to flash sometime, so check your tank level and the level sensor wiring, may be this is your problem...
I am also a bit worried with your BOV noise... Are you venting out???
Good luck,
C>
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Vigman
First, You should tap into injectors #1 & #4 (ECU pin 1 & 2 as diagram). The reason is that the firing sequence is 1-3-4-2 on our engine so 1 & 4 are a 50% cycle all the way long. If you really install your diodes on 1 & 3, you actually have a double followed pulse and then 2 empty firing shots. It works but it is not like a smooth sequence...
Then, when I watch your video, I have a doubt with the "level" LED... It seems to flash sometime, so check your tank level and the level sensor wiring, may be this is your problem...
I am also a bit worried with your BOV noise... Are you venting out???
Good luck,
C>
thanks bro ill try and switch the it to pin 1 and 2.. but yea the "level LED" is crazy, it randomly flickers and activates then goes away and the flow meter shows almost every bar.. the tank is full the water level sensor is straight not kinked at all.. but ive always had this problem with the level LED.. just kicks on whenever. i know its meat to trigger the failsafe if im low in the tank and all but its full and this is still happening
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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do tank level sensors go bad?.. any way to troubleshoot this?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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This is so weird.

Is this just happen or since you have rewired it with two diodes?

Is the wiring identical to the drawing?
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Old Jun 21, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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As far as I remember, level sensor close the switch when water is missing in the tank... So try disconnecting FLOAT SW- and FLOAT SW+ on the DDS3 board. If it works better, you may have a shortcut on your level sensor wiring. Remember to rewire sensor after testing to prevent any further damage.
Cheers.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:27 AM
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I lloked at the video again, it appears the +12V supply into the system is very unstable. Can you check the read wire is terminated to the ECU's red/yellow wire.
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard L
This is so weird.

Is this just happen or since you have rewired it with two diodes?

Is the wiring identical to the drawing?
it was actually going on before the 2 diodes.. after it was installed it worked fine went to get tuned and clutch started slipping so let the car sit for a while. after clutch was done refilled the meth tank up and problem occured again with the level LED flicking off and on
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Vigman
As far as I remember, level sensor close the switch when water is missing in the tank... So try disconnecting FLOAT SW- and FLOAT SW+ on the DDS3 board. If it works better, you may have a shortcut on your level sensor wiring. Remember to rewire sensor after testing to prevent any further damage.
Cheers.

thanks Vigman i will try this when i get home havent thought about disconnecting the SW- and +.. it does sound like it could be a short since this RANDOMLY happens
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard L
I lloked at the video again, it appears the +12V supply into the system is very unstable. Can you check the read wire is terminated to the ECU's red/yellow wire.
yes the +12v switched is ran to the red/ yellow (pin 25) wire in ECU and soldered
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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Can you return the HFS-5 v10 circuit board to me and I will check it through and if there are any new updates, I will put it in. No charge.

Send it to:

ERL Ltd
Iroko House
Repairs Department.
Bolney Avenue
Peacehaven
East Sussex
BN10 8HF
England
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:57 PM
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From: Woodbridge, VA
Originally Posted by Richard L
Can you return the HFS-5 v10 circuit board to me and I will check it through and if there are any new updates, I will put it in. No charge.

Send it to:

ERL Ltd
Iroko House
Repairs Department.
Bolney Avenue
Peacehaven
East Sussex
BN10 8HF
England
i will try these small little checks first.. did u want me to send anything else along with it so u could check just incase since im sending the board anyway
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard L
Can you return the HFS-5 v10 circuit board to me and I will check it through and if there are any new updates, I will put it in. No charge.
...And some people still wants to install something else than Aquamist...
Thank you Richard to have this customer service!!!
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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From: Woodbridge, VA
Richard never lets me down
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