HFS-3 love
HFS-3 love
I used to have a HFS-1 v8 and recently decided to change over to the HFS-3. My HFS-1 did a great job but because it was all or nothing at partial throttle it would dump to much meth. At wide open throttle I had a dip in my afr I could not seem to tune all the way out. The other issue I ran into was the original installer put a 1 and .8 size jets on the car. This caused some pooling and my afr would temporarly dip btwn gears. When I was shifting fast this could actually cause the car to run rich in the next gear.
With my the HFS-3 I decided to tackle install myself. I followed the HFS-5 install guide that is sticked and had no issues. I decided to put two new jets on though keep the same size. I keep the same size due to the IDC% comp of the HFS-3.
I tune my own car and am still learning. That being said I was able to get the AFRs very close to where I wanted them in 3 pulls. Where with my HFS-1 it took longer and partial throttle was never where I wanted it. It was much easier to tune the HFS-3 and the responsiveness was outstanding. Now at partial throttle the afr is spot on and once I lift off the throttle my afr reacts as fast as when on pump only. The kit was easy to assemble and I love the compression fittings all around. My old push style fittings never seemed to last.
A big Thank You to Richard from Aquamist for a making great product and excellent customer support.
A big Thank You to Jeff from Howerton Engineering for the awesome custom WMI tank/ HFS-3 and excellent customer support.
The first Virtual Dyno graph is showing pump gas only vs. pump/meth. The only change between the two runs was timing. I did not change afr or boost level. My wide band was not working on the pump only but it is about an 11-11.5 afr straight across. I did not adjust my afr for the pump/meth run that is why it is pig rich. I wanted to show the change in power due to timing changes only.
The second is showing changes in power due to leaning out the afr. My lm-1 box was on the floor board so when I boosted it caused the sensor wire to giggle and give a dip in my afr it fixes itself after the dip at about 4600rpm and reads correctly again.
I will post up pics soon...
With my the HFS-3 I decided to tackle install myself. I followed the HFS-5 install guide that is sticked and had no issues. I decided to put two new jets on though keep the same size. I keep the same size due to the IDC% comp of the HFS-3.
I tune my own car and am still learning. That being said I was able to get the AFRs very close to where I wanted them in 3 pulls. Where with my HFS-1 it took longer and partial throttle was never where I wanted it. It was much easier to tune the HFS-3 and the responsiveness was outstanding. Now at partial throttle the afr is spot on and once I lift off the throttle my afr reacts as fast as when on pump only. The kit was easy to assemble and I love the compression fittings all around. My old push style fittings never seemed to last.
A big Thank You to Richard from Aquamist for a making great product and excellent customer support.
A big Thank You to Jeff from Howerton Engineering for the awesome custom WMI tank/ HFS-3 and excellent customer support.
The first Virtual Dyno graph is showing pump gas only vs. pump/meth. The only change between the two runs was timing. I did not change afr or boost level. My wide band was not working on the pump only but it is about an 11-11.5 afr straight across. I did not adjust my afr for the pump/meth run that is why it is pig rich. I wanted to show the change in power due to timing changes only.
The second is showing changes in power due to leaning out the afr. My lm-1 box was on the floor board so when I boosted it caused the sensor wire to giggle and give a dip in my afr it fixes itself after the dip at about 4600rpm and reads correctly again.
I will post up pics soon...
Last edited by mt057; Oct 22, 2010 at 04:40 PM.
I also have to say that even though I am flowing less methanol by my rough calculations, I am running the same timing and making the same power as before. Now I feel that it is much more precise and controled.
My car seems to hate timing, but I am begining to wonder if it is my cam gear settings. I was able to run about 5* to 6* at peak load but ended up dropping back down to 3* around peak load and at redline I can only get away with 13*. This is at 30psi. I could run 28psi on pump but it would have to be 0* around peak load and red line was about 4-5*
. Anymore than that and I would knock, lower boost and more timing seemed to make less power. Since I drag race, I was not worried about egt on my pump gas tune.
My cam gears were adjusted to -4,-4 when I had my cams put in. This was with my stock turbo to help my setup get a little more top end and push the power curves to the right. I am curious, if I could make a broader power band by returning to 0,0 with my current turbo and will be testing soon.
Meth/pump on the left, Pump only on the right
. Anymore than that and I would knock, lower boost and more timing seemed to make less power. Since I drag race, I was not worried about egt on my pump gas tune.My cam gears were adjusted to -4,-4 when I had my cams put in. This was with my stock turbo to help my setup get a little more top end and push the power curves to the right. I am curious, if I could make a broader power band by returning to 0,0 with my current turbo and will be testing soon.
Meth/pump on the left, Pump only on the right
Last edited by mt057; Oct 24, 2010 at 01:56 PM.
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The motor is stock beside the cams and cam gears. I have 107,xxx miles on my car today and started running 30psi at about 60,xxx miles. I do not have aftermarket head studs. I think that I have around 27psi or so at 7000 rpm. I want to say 30psi but I am sure it falls pretty quickly up there. I need to get a 4 bar map so I can know for sure.
good lord dude,
you need a wheelbarrow to carry around that ******* you have! Props to you
you need a wheelbarrow to carry around that ******* you have! Props to you
The motor is stock beside the cams and cam gears. I have 107,xxx miles on my car today and started running 30psi at about 60,xxx miles. I do not have aftermarket head studs. I think that I have around 27psi or so at 7000 rpm. I want to say 30psi but I am sure it falls pretty quickly up there. I need to get a 4 bar map so I can know for sure.
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my thoughts exactly!

