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HELP Aquamist HSF-5 leak question

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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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Question HELP Aquamist HSF-5 leak question

Anyone know how to make the system spray with out driving it? I have a leak and I want to make sure its eliminated and its impossible to find it with out it spraying and watching where the leak is coming from.

Thanks!
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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Here is the link to the manual and this should show you how to jumper the board to test flow http://www.aquamist.co.uk/V10/HFS-5-v10w.pdf
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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thanks!!!!!!
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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On the jumper links there is only jumper positions 1 and 2 any ideas?
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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ok figured it out... found the leak
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Evo11V
On the jumper links there is only jumper positions 1 and 2 any ideas?
Make sure that you have the jets unhooked from the uicp before manually triggering the system. Another way to look for leaks while driving is to use twist ties and use it to wrap the connections with a little paper towel.
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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Question leak

ok so I need some ideas.... the leak is coming from this plate, my assumption is that "O" ring is leaking.




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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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You can get an O-ring to replace that from a local autoparts store but I am not sure if they need to be made of epdm or something special. I know that Howerton Engineering has supplied me with a rebuild kit before. You would have to see if they have something avaliable for your pump. (They always have for me)
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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yeah sent an e-mail to Howerton Engineering... probably get replacement parts from there. Thanks
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 06:03 AM
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Ok so got some brass fittings to fix the leak, but now I notice leakes between the top black and silver motor part. Saw a post from Mt057 on putting some silicon around the top to seal it. That should do the trick. What type did you use so I can get some tomorrow and fix the remaining leaks.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Evo11V
Ok so got some brass fittings to fix the leak, but now I notice leakes between the top black and silver motor part. Saw a post from Mt057 on putting some silicon around the top to seal it. That should do the trick. What type did you use so I can get some tomorrow and fix the remaining leaks.
Make sure to let the pump pieces dry out completely and wear latex gloves or something to keep the methanol off your hands. Use 100% silicon rtv sealant (the gray will work). Be careful to make sure that the 3 little springs and plastic cones are put back in the same way or it will not pump.

Take the top of and do it slowly. Put a light bead around the edge just like any other gasket. If I remember right it is easier to assemble will the pump head on a table or something with the pump in hand upside down. Place them together and flip it back over and put in the screws and tighten down following the instructions on the rtv. There is also a rebuild kit for the pump head, but I understand just wanting it fixed. I eventually found leaks at my push fittings and had to swap those for compression.

I have an old one to pull apart. I will post pics later.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 06:44 AM
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Yeah I'm thinking of switching the push fittings out too since I have it appart already and its a paint to pull out and put in over and over.

I might start replacing all the fittings to avoid future leakes since the push T-fitting leaked twice before already.

Just concerned with having alky lines running by me along the door, that would never happen in racing environments. That stuff ignites and sprays might be a little painful. Do you have pictures of your install?
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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I ran it along the inside of the door under the trim as well. I will take some pics tonight and get them posted. I have had it like that for years and never had any issues. The line is extremely strong. If it is located under the car it would need to be protected from debrie to prevent puncture so I believe that in the cabin is the best. I love my comp. fittings. They are super easy to install and do not leak air or methanol.

If you click on the pic. I have highlighted the area to apply to sealant in blue. I used the red but I recommend the grey for appearance (as lancerguy03 did). You do not need much but the bead needs to be continous. It goes on the flat portion where its would meet the metal pump. Not on the inner lower section, where the original gasket goes. As you can see on mine I got some in this area touching the gasket but the rtv did not harm the pump/gasket and the it did not dissovle. The little springs/cones need to be installed in the manner shown with all three in place.
Attached Thumbnails HELP Aquamist HSF-5 leak question-sureflow-pump-head.png  

Last edited by mt057; Oct 28, 2010 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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Thanks, It came out good but I have to laugh because now the fittings are leaking. I just ordered all new compression fittings from Howerton Engineering.

I have to say Jeff from Howerton Engineering is a great guy, if anyone has any problems hes the Aquamist guy to call.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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Well, I finally got it fixed! My pump must have been leaking a lot.

Ended up replaced the fittings on the pump and the "T" with the compression fittings and also sealed the spray nozzles, since I found they were leaking also.

I also decided to replace the in line filter with the in tank filter to eliminate that possibility of another leak since that happened before and it was messy. After driving it its finally great again consistent amount of bars of spray instead of it going crazy.

If you don't have compression fittings I recommend changing them as soon as you can. When you have the pump installed out of site its great but not when there are leaks and you dont know about them until its leaking a lot.

Thanks everyone for all your assistance! mt057 & Howerton Engineering.
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