***Official UT Chat Thread***
well i have a gt35r turbo i plan on porting and polishing my head and doing 1mm oversized valves, springs, seats, the whole shabang. i would like to rev to at least 8k. and i also plan on doing my timing belt and tensioner and all that stuff at the same time.
Hello guys! I am in UT for a week on vacation decided to pick up some Eibach springs for my Evo X. Does anyone know of a decent shop in UT County that could do an install? I didn't bring any tools with me and don't really have room for the springs on the drive back home so I would like to get them installed here.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I have a ported head with Springs and BC 272 Cams ARP head studs and a Stock bottom end. I would like to redo my whole head and do Everything or maybe send it in to Buschur for the Stage 3 Head since that is about $1600 and I think parts alone not including the labor will cost close to a $1000 to do everything it might be best to let the Pros at Buschur handle it. On another note I have also been thinking about doing a 2.4 through Buschur as well
We will see what happens after this summer when the car is paid off 
Hello guys! I am in UT for a week on vacation decided to pick up some Eibach springs for my Evo X. Does anyone know of a decent shop in UT County that could do an install? I didn't bring any tools with me and don't really have room for the springs on the drive back home so I would like to get them installed here.
Thanks!
Thanks!
That is great! What is his info? Do you know if he would have time to do it tomorrow morning?
Cossie 280's work well
Yep Revs kill. With the head work I have done on my car I was told I could rev to 9500. I only go to 8500 and that is on a rare too. I did bump up my Rev limiter to 9000 the one time I went to the Drag strip so I wasn't bouncing off the Rev limiter in 4th going across the line. I think 8500 tho is very safe.
someone buy my whiteline sway bar!!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8959312-post156.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8959312-post156.html
When I did research on cams there is no set "formula" as far as the marketing name is concerned.
The "duration" (as noted by 264, 272, 280 etc ... ) is more of a rough duration, which then goes as gangster and marketing speak. So a fair warning ... if you start to put personal opinions about this cam or that cam just because of a tribal-based cam company, coupled with the gangster mentality out of Ogden, expect a few laughs from our end.
The only basis of truth in the "duration" was "typically" (not always) long duration would support high lift, and long openings, which is some regards is what you want on a turboed car. What comes at the expense of this is perhaps super long overlap which means you might just be blowing your intake charge right out the exhaust.
So ... how do you know what's really out there? You need to look at duration at some known valve opening and closing event (US and many use 0.050 inches, Japan and others use 1mm lift), Total lift height, and timing.
Turbo cars like to have closed exhaust valves, on intake opening, because you're using the turbo to force in the next charge of air, not pulse vaccums like in a N/A motor. That in turn doesn't promote terribly good spool. So its a balance to get what you're looking for.
Personally, I liked the Comp 280+. It was a generous intake valve opening, and a moderate exhaust valve opening. If I remember it was 10.2mm exhaust, and 10.8mm intake. If I don't run the rpms too high I don't need new springs and retainers (which I should probably do anyways).
BTW Most of what people get into for pissing matches over the "X brand 272s are better than Y brand 272s" isn't that they are just some magical "272s" its typically what that set of 272s have been ground to and the timing of the grinds. If there is anything to take home, its timing and grinds have radically different performance characteristics.
0.02
~j.
The "duration" (as noted by 264, 272, 280 etc ... ) is more of a rough duration, which then goes as gangster and marketing speak. So a fair warning ... if you start to put personal opinions about this cam or that cam just because of a tribal-based cam company, coupled with the gangster mentality out of Ogden, expect a few laughs from our end.
The only basis of truth in the "duration" was "typically" (not always) long duration would support high lift, and long openings, which is some regards is what you want on a turboed car. What comes at the expense of this is perhaps super long overlap which means you might just be blowing your intake charge right out the exhaust.
So ... how do you know what's really out there? You need to look at duration at some known valve opening and closing event (US and many use 0.050 inches, Japan and others use 1mm lift), Total lift height, and timing.
Turbo cars like to have closed exhaust valves, on intake opening, because you're using the turbo to force in the next charge of air, not pulse vaccums like in a N/A motor. That in turn doesn't promote terribly good spool. So its a balance to get what you're looking for.
Personally, I liked the Comp 280+. It was a generous intake valve opening, and a moderate exhaust valve opening. If I remember it was 10.2mm exhaust, and 10.8mm intake. If I don't run the rpms too high I don't need new springs and retainers (which I should probably do anyways).
BTW Most of what people get into for pissing matches over the "X brand 272s are better than Y brand 272s" isn't that they are just some magical "272s" its typically what that set of 272s have been ground to and the timing of the grinds. If there is anything to take home, its timing and grinds have radically different performance characteristics.
0.02
~j.
Hello guys! I am in UT for a week on vacation decided to pick up some Eibach springs for my Evo X. Does anyone know of a decent shop in UT County that could do an install? I didn't bring any tools with me and don't really have room for the springs on the drive back home so I would like to get them installed here.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Your 0.02 is always worth listening too IMO you always come across with a good point 
IMO you always come across with a good point When I did research on cams there is no set "formula" as far as the marketing name is concerned.
The "duration" (as noted by 264, 272, 280 etc ... ) is more of a rough duration, which then goes as gangster and marketing speak. So a fair warning ... if you start to put personal opinions about this cam or that cam just because of a tribal-based cam company, coupled with the gangster mentality out of Ogden, expect a few laughs from our end.
The only basis of truth in the "duration" was "typically" (not always) long duration would support high lift, and long openings, which is some regards is what you want on a turboed car. What comes at the expense of this is perhaps super long overlap which means you might just be blowing your intake charge right out the exhaust.
So ... how do you know what's really out there? You need to look at duration at some known valve opening and closing event (US and many use 0.050 inches, Japan and others use 1mm lift), Total lift height, and timing.
Turbo cars like to have closed exhaust valves, on intake opening, because you're using the turbo to force in the next charge of air, not pulse vaccums like in a N/A motor. That in turn doesn't promote terribly good spool. So its a balance to get what you're looking for.
Personally, I liked the Comp 280+. It was a generous intake valve opening, and a moderate exhaust valve opening. If I remember it was 10.2mm exhaust, and 10.8mm intake. If I don't run the rpms too high I don't need new springs and retainers (which I should probably do anyways).
BTW Most of what people get into for pissing matches over the "X brand 272s are better than Y brand 272s" isn't that they are just some magical "272s" its typically what that set of 272s have been ground to and the timing of the grinds. If there is anything to take home, its timing and grinds have radically different performance characteristics.
0.02
~j.
The "duration" (as noted by 264, 272, 280 etc ... ) is more of a rough duration, which then goes as gangster and marketing speak. So a fair warning ... if you start to put personal opinions about this cam or that cam just because of a tribal-based cam company, coupled with the gangster mentality out of Ogden, expect a few laughs from our end.
The only basis of truth in the "duration" was "typically" (not always) long duration would support high lift, and long openings, which is some regards is what you want on a turboed car. What comes at the expense of this is perhaps super long overlap which means you might just be blowing your intake charge right out the exhaust.
So ... how do you know what's really out there? You need to look at duration at some known valve opening and closing event (US and many use 0.050 inches, Japan and others use 1mm lift), Total lift height, and timing.
Turbo cars like to have closed exhaust valves, on intake opening, because you're using the turbo to force in the next charge of air, not pulse vaccums like in a N/A motor. That in turn doesn't promote terribly good spool. So its a balance to get what you're looking for.
Personally, I liked the Comp 280+. It was a generous intake valve opening, and a moderate exhaust valve opening. If I remember it was 10.2mm exhaust, and 10.8mm intake. If I don't run the rpms too high I don't need new springs and retainers (which I should probably do anyways).
BTW Most of what people get into for pissing matches over the "X brand 272s are better than Y brand 272s" isn't that they are just some magical "272s" its typically what that set of 272s have been ground to and the timing of the grinds. If there is anything to take home, its timing and grinds have radically different performance characteristics.
0.02
~j.
