I've got an '04 Evo with the p2 and WORKS boost hose assembly. The only other mods are K&N drop-in and WORKS ABE. After installing the p2 and everything, the car did feel a little more powerful, but not really all that impressive. Then the cold weather started coming and sometimes my car feels like a freakin crazy machine. This happens only in the morning. It feels like its insane from about 4500-redline. But it only happens for one or two 1st -> 2nd -> 3rd gear pulls. And then she settles back down to her normal self. And yes the car is warmed up before I drive it. One other thing, about the third time i noticed this phenomenon, I decided to go gently through 1st and 2nd and then WOT in third from about 2500rpm while getting onto the highway. Same thing, she's pulling like a beast, then wham, fuel cut hardcore at about 5500 or 6000rpm. scared the crap out of me until I realized what it was.

I don't have a boost guage since the mods on the car are minimal, but I'm thinking I might need to buy one and see what it says.

I guess I'm just wondering if this is a common phenomenon. I honestly thought my car would feel the way it does on those first two pulls in the morning, but all the time after the p2. Maybe my butt dyno has just slowly been re-calibrated and gotten accustomed to the new power.

P.S. I also did the p2 ECU flash first, then about 3 weeks later put on the boost hoses, then about a week later put on the ABE. Maybe the car really is a lot quicker but i didn't notice a dramatic change because of the gradual modding...

 

First , you shouldn't hit fuel cut at 5500 or 6000 rpm at all. Why would you? You would hit fuel cut at like 7800rpm. In addition, after the P2, your boost shouldn't really drop but go all the way to redline or until you do hit fuel cut.

Anyways regarding you getting use to the new power - After a reflash, you hear people keep on saying "...Wow, what a difference...", "...the cars pulls so hard now...", etc, etc. Then you have that high expectation but when you finally experience it, it's not like what you've expected. Well, at least for me it is like that. It could be my butt dyno is not calibrated correctly or I have a dyno dynamic butt dyno instead of a dynojet butt dyno, but I really don't feel THAT much difference even after flash, tbe, cams, etc. Maybe I got use to it or maybe it's a boost leak.

 

he s hitting fuel cut because is car is overboosting, it happens to some people with boost controllers ( first time hearing it with the P2). Just call works and see what they think

 

exactly what i meant. i may just have to do that. Jaime (or any of you guys), if you're reading this, i'm gonna call you in like 30 minutes to an hour...

 

This is often caused by a boost leak. The ECU only sees the signal from the VAF, so you can hit boost or fuel cut at a safe 20psi. The ECU will think you are boosting too high because of the amount of airflow.

This can also be caused from aftermarket intakes that don't let the VAF work properly. Many open filter element intakes create bad signals and cause loss of power, drivability issues and unstable idle. This is why we decided to stick with a drop in, optimizing the already nearly perfect stock intake setup.

 

[ This is why we decided to stick with a drop in, optimizing the already nearly perfect stock intake setup.[/QUOTE]


Tyler,

I mention to Jamie that I have a drop-in but using an open cover, like the Blitz one and still have the stock ram air, will that affect it as well?

 

I spoke with Jaime the other day. He mentioned boost leak as well. I highly doubt that, but will check all the hoses and such. Whats the best way to check for a boost leak 100%?

As for the aftermarket intake, I learned early on to stay away from those since the stock works so well, so thats not a problem either.

Jaime also mentioned making sure the VAF was clean and not messed up or dirty (possible oil blow-back or whatever the correct term is).