umiami80

iTrader: (1)

OK, I have a Joe P MBC, and had it running on My Talon, very simple, had the nipple on the compressor side and then to the MBC and then to the Wastegate, very simple, did spike slightly.


My questions are as follows, I am using the Same MBC.


1. Do I simply disconnect the Stock nipple off the compressor and the wastegate and plug them both up? And Just foget they exhist?

2. I see the line T'd at the Compressior Nipple and the wastegate and the
n to the solinoid, is there another vaccum tube comming from the intake? And if so what do I do with it if I just plug up the T'd original lines on the turbo?

3. WIll I throw a code If I do what I just suggested?

4. ANd for final instalation, should I just run it like I had on the talon, boost source from the Comprerssor side and then to teh waste gate, or, should I get my boost source from the wastgate vaccum line and plug up the compressor nipple.


This is EXACTLY on what I plan to do, tell me if it will work...


I will disconnect the vaccum line from the compressor housing. I will Disconnect the vaccum line from the waste gate. I will plug up both of these line by connecting them to one another or simply plug up both lines. I will then cap of the compressor nipple. Dissconnect the line from the stock BOV and then T it. Send ONE line to the the BOV, send the OTHER line to the NON VENTED side of the JOE P MBC, the side where the hole is NOT there to vent off the boost. I will then run the final vaccum line from the vented line of the MBC to the wastgate nipple.


This is my plan, I will use the STOCK Boost Controller (worked it into my purchase, got my ride for $29,500, which is only 1.5 BAR but is more then enough for the stock turbo. I plan to run 1.35 bar exactly which if you do a little math you will see that will equate to 19.845 PSI, which probably won't hold on a stock exhaust anyways.

Does my plan seem to work? Is this the best setup? Mostly worried about the code throwing and possible boost leak from the intake tube.

umiami80

iTrader: (1)

Also, what size lines and T's do I need? Do I remove the vaccum tube from the MAF to Turbo tube and plug it up of just leave it there and just plug up the Compressor housing vaccum tube and then plug up the wastegate vaccum tube.

Basically just want to remove both of those tubes from their respective nipples and then plug them up and forget they exhist with no code or leak.

mrdecibel

iTrader: (1)

This was posted in this forum by another member. Try to use the search feature in the future. As far as T's, get a handful from the auto parts store and take back the ones you did not use. Depending on your tubing you purchased, you may need different sized T's.

The stock set-up has one line coming off of the gold colored wastegate canister and another coming off of the turbo compressor outlet nipple. Both of those vaccum lines "Y" into one hose that connects to the factory boost controller.

1) Before beginning installation adjust your MBC baseline by turning the knob until you can blow air pressure through it. Make sure you are blowing into the non-vented side of the MBC. This ensures that you won't immediately overboost when you go to test your new install;-) It basically opens the flow of air between manifold pressure and wastegate canister to allow the wastegate to operate at its static boost controlled by the wastegate spring pressure.The non-vented side of the MBC will connect into a manifold pressure source, and the vented side will connect to the wastgate actuator canister side.

1) Remove the hoses from the gold colored wastegate & the turbo compressor outlet nipple.

2) The vented side of the MBC connects to the gold colored wastegate canister.

3) The nipple on the turbo compressor gets a vaccum cap. make sure its secured with a spring clamp or mini tye wrap. You don't want it coming off.
NOTE: Some people connect the MBC directly to the compressor outlet nipple, but the directions I had with my XBC boost controller indicated not to do that. I think (and I reiterate "I think")that the short connection creates too much immediate pressure build, and this may result in part throttle high EGT's and boost spiking as well. As it is I never experienced any part throttle high EGT issues and boost spikes were minimal.

4) The non-vented side of the MBC is connected into a manifold pressure source. There are various places to "T" into a line. Just make sure that you carefully tyrap or spring-clamp your connections.

5)Now that your MBC is now installed either remove the original vaccum lines feeding into the "Y" and plug the vaccum line going into the FBC, or plug both lines going into the "Y". Tye wrap the line(s) out of harms way. BTW, not plugging the FBC on the WRX caused weird problems, so don't take a chance and just block it off somehow.

6) Tye wrap, or mount the actual boost controller in a safe and easy to get to location. You may want to add a piece of adhesive felt or the soft side of velcro to ensure the MBC doesn't rub through anything.

7) At this point you should re-check all of your connections and then be ready to go for a test drive. Initially your boost gauge will read low(whatever the static pressure is on the EVO's turbo wastegate actuator). Depending on the MBC, a half turn or full turn at a time for testing will provide a fairly safe method for adjusting the MBC. Remember that most ball and spring MBC's use spring pressure to create more tension thus resulting in more held boost.This normally means that screwing the knob tighter results in more boost and looser results in less boost.

Make sure and do a standing start check, and also do a roll-on throttle check. The roll-on tends to create the most spike in my experiences. Taking your boost spikes into consideration, set the MBC at the "held" boost level you feel comfortable with.

Temperature changes will require re-adjustment. Hotter temps=less boost, colder temps = more boost so if you set your MBC for say 18.5 psi with boost spikes of.25-.75 (18.75-19.25)on an 80 degree day, then you get a cold snap down to say 55 degrees your boost may increase by almost a full psi. Obviously you will need to loosen the spring pressure on the MBC to bring the pressure back into alignment with your spec.

I currently have an MBC on my Syclone and since the SY is running the stock 2 bar MAP it will not fuel properly past 14.7 psi. I have my MBC set at 14.25 or so and have spikes of .25-.75 which keeps me within the range of safety.

One other thing.....if you don't have a boost gauge you shouldn't be messing with this.

Oh yeah, this kind of mod can void your warranty, and remember that any mod you decide to do is at your own decision, and potential risk of damage to your car!

Bottom line is that you are ultimately responsible for your own actions!!

BadBoyBeltran

iTrader: (3)

You just need to disconnect and plug the stock solenoid (gunmetal), connect the MBC to the turbo manifold outlet and the wastegate actuator(brass). You do not need a T connector for the MBC, just your boost gauge. you will need about 5 ft of 1/4 vaccum hose for the MBC. Let me know if you have more questions since I just installed mine on Thursday. I think there is an arrow on the MBC and make sure that goes to the actuator. No CELs, unless you overboost it and cause detonation.

bpclements

iTrader: (41)

I hooked my Joe P MBC up to the nipple off of the turbo. I don't like it hooked up this way since there is on average a spike of 1.5 to 2.0 psi before settling. Sometimes it will fluctuate and not hold a steady boost pressure. I am going tap into the blow off valve source and cap the nipple off on the turbo. Hopefully this will work better. If not I am going with an electronic one. Before that I will make sure that all my connections are air tight.

cdavy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I have the same issue with my Joe P MBC.. I am having a difficult time getting my boost to hold solid... I find myslef adjusting this thing all the time...

In different gears I get differnet levels of boost. I seem to have difficulty getting "full" boost in 1st gear. In forth and fith, I get higer levels... I want to get this tosettle down... I am also planning to move the MBC inlet to the BOV to see if that helps.. I not I am going for a nice Blitz EVC...

Anyone else have these issues?

N10S

iTrader: (4)

I wrote up that overly-long and detailed MBC install guide a while back. Unfortunately I can get a but too wordy at times.

Although you can simplify the install by just hooking the lines up directly to the compressor outlet nipple and the wastegate canister, the result will be more immediate and trigger sensitive boost spool-up.

Although this brings you to full boost immediately, it can also cause more severe boost spiking and contributes to part throttle full boost situations which in turn can cause high EGT's.

I had my WRX MBC plumbed off of the BOV and it worked great, so this might make good sense with the EVO as well.

Don't forget to cap the FBC. On the WRX leaving the FBC uncapped would cause a CEL.Not sure about the EVO, but why take a chance?

N10S

kwiktsi

OK guys, this is WAAYYY late, but I just joined and figured it may help someone ..
Since boost is load-dependant, a lot of MBC's will vary slightly from gear to gear- for those who have been around from the Talon Digest days, you will remember a lot of people recommending setting max boost in 3rd and 4th gear because of this. Since there is less load in 1st, the boost will not peak as high as the higher gears. A lot of the better electronics help prevent this by monitoring the boost level and keeping it steady, however, even my Blitz DSBC in one of my Mazdaspeed did not hold the same peak through all the gears. Unfortunately, RPM vs. load changes will affect boost with a majority of controllers out there..

I hope this helps someone.
Joe P.

dangerous8

iTrader: (2)

Swith the T around