tlcoll1

iTrader: (14)

I recently replaced my ACD pump to fix the infamous "all three ACD lights are on" problem. Since there doesn't seem to be a thread about how to actually do this, I thought I'd post one. This is all from recent memory, so it should be pretty (but maybe not 100%) accurate.

Tools:
- 10 and 12 mm sockets. Ratchet. Various extensions.
- Rust penetrant. You're definitely going to need this.
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.
- 14 mm line wrench.
- Right angle needle nosed pliers.
- A lift. Recommended, but not 100% necessary.
- Patience.

I bought a new ACD pump from mitsubishiparts.net. It costs a *lot* of money, but Russel got the item out to me toute suite so no complaints here.

Step 1: remove undertray. 2 phillips screws and 229,516 of those phillips head screw plastic rivet thingies. Don't forget the two rivets under the access panel held in place by the screws.

Link 1

Step 2: remove bumper cover. 2 phillips head screw plastic rivets and 1 bolt in each front wheelwell, two plastic clips (pop out the head on these with a flathead, then carefully remove) and two bolts at the top of the bumper cover, and two 10 mm bolts at the top of the intercooler opening (one behind the license plate bracket, which you have to remove to access). This is for a VIII. I believe the IX has the intercooler opening bolts behind a plastic access hole in the bumper.

Link 2
Link 4
Link 5
Link 6

This exposes the ACD pump in front of the drivers side front wheel cover.

Step 3: remove stock airbox and snorkel. The snorkel is held down by two plastic rivets. The stock airbox is held in place by two 10 mm bolts. Remove the air intake tube (unscrew the clamp w/a 10 mm socket), disconnect the MAS electrical connection, and pop out the airbox. Easy peasy.

Step 4: remove the intercooler pipe that snakes down in front of the engine to the driver's side of the intercooler. Various 10 mm band clamps, and two (12 mm?) bolts at the top and bottom of the intercooler pipe. Wiggle it out of the way.

Step 5: The hard hydraulic line from the ACD pump winds down to a junction under the center of the intercooler. You'll be removing the hard line here, along with a (12 mm?) bolt. With the intercooler pipe out of the way, you'll have a clear view of this line. Don't un-do this now. 14 mm line wrench needed for the hydraulic line.

Step 6: Remove the three electrical connections to the ACD pump. Pinch the connector to release.

Step 7: The ACD pump and the reservoir are all mounted on a silver bracket, on a black bracket, onto the body. Resist the urge to just remove the pump, and instead remove the black bracket containing the whole assembly. Four (12 mm, I think) bolts. Once you've removed the bolts, the whole assembly will fall out. (If you ignored step 4, you won't be able to get to one of the bolts.) Just before you remove the last of the bolts for the black bracket, un-do the hard line under the intercooler. It'll drip transmission fluid. At this point, the ACD pump, on the silver bracket, on the black bracket, along with the reservoir and part of the hard line, will come out of the car.

Step 8: Dump out the reservoir and transfer the new pump into the assembly. As I recall, 4 12 mm bolts for the silver-to-black mount, and 3 12 mm bolts for the pump-to-silver mount. Also swap the rubber hoses to the reservoir onto the new pump. Use right-angle needle nose pliers to pinch the hose clamps, and wiggle off the rubber tubing. Two tubes, different sizes so you can't screw up. Next, swap the hard line to the new pump. 14 mm line wrench. Expect lots of transmission fluid to be dripping everywhere.

Step 9: reinsert the whole assembly (black bracket) into the car. Reconnect all three of the electrical connectors. Leave the reservoir empty at this point.

Step 10: reconnect the hard line under the intercooler.

Step 11: put the intercooler pipe back in place.

Step 12: fill the ACD reservoir between the two fill lines. I used Valvoline MaxLife Dexron/Mercon (ATF) Automatic Transmission Fluid. I quart, $7 at Advance Auto Parts, was plenty.

Link 1

Step 13: bleed the ACD pump: with the e-brake off, turn on the car key and press the gas pedal to the floor. While this is going on, have a helper under the car with a bleed line connected to the nipple on the transfer case (there's a dust cover - remove it and replace it when you're done), and have him crack the bleed nipple. Repeat a few times until fluid comes out with no air. In my case, I saw almost no fluid, then it started flowing continuously with no bubbles at all. I've seen other bleed procedures that are more complex (Link), but it seems like most people just do what I did. YMMV.

Step 14: top off the reservoir if necessary and check for leaks at the hard line junctions and where the reservoir rubber lines comes into the pump. Repair if necessary.

Step 15: button up the car. Airbox on, bumper cover on, undertray on, etc.

Step 16: enjoy your new single light in the dashboard!

With a lift, mostly by myself, having never done this before, the whole procedure took about 6 hours. I went really slowly and carefully though. Anyone with any mechanical aptitude could do this much more quickly than I did.

Tom

04evo8mr

Any problems since mate?

tlcoll1

iTrader: (14)

Nope. Still working fine.

ugatalane

How did you free up the hydraulic line from the ACD pump that winds down to a junction under the center of the intercooler. Mine is rusted and will not break free. What are some ways besides dowsing in wd40?

tlcoll1

iTrader: (14)

Mine came free with a line wrench, but yours is a mess. I don't have any good suggestions beyond general YouTube videos on how to break it.

Is it rusted due to lack of an undertray?

ugatalane

all good got it with a little heat and line wrench. Off to be rebuilt. And yes no undertray driving in winters is what did it. No more winters for the car anymore though.

icole

Thanks very helpful. It took me about 60 minutes. The biggest challenge was the oil line. I used WD40 and my propane torch. Fortunately mine wasn't as rusty as the one in the picture.