Soft Pedal Solutions - Rd. 2
#63
EvoM Guru
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If you look in his build thread I think, he found that the girodisc Ti shim was going on top of the rivet for the pad wear indicator. Causing the shim to not be flat on the pad, which introduced a lot fo space between the caliper piston and pad. Creating a soft pedal.
#65
EvoM Guru
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If you have the girodisc Ti shims on your EBC yellows, yes, youhave this issue. I had to notch my shims when I was running those pads.
#68
EvoM Guru
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I advise having two sets of pads if you go with ST43's. If used for street driving where they never really get hot, ST43's are very hard on rotors.
#69
hmm i see - thought they were decent on the rotors. Car is only driven to and from autox events, and to and from track events - in that situation, run the ST43s? or no? Maybe some light street driving once in a while but other than that, nothing. thoughts?
#70
EvoM Guru
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Originally Posted by kyoo
hmm i see - thought they were decent on the rotors. Car is only driven to and from autox events, and to and from track events - in that situation, run the ST43s? or no? Maybe some light street driving once in a while but other than that, nothing. thoughts?
Be prepared to sound like a freight train when pulling up to stops
#72
the evo's brakes feel soft again after my last track day. we did 150 open/close sequences on each caliper, went through like a 1.5 gallons of fluid. it's srf, so i'm burning liquid gold. the setup is dba5000's in front, recently turned, and st43s, ti shim (sits flush on back of pad), and oem shim. i may still pull the shims to see, but we are not seeing any air as we flush.
process:
- pump the pedal
- open bleeder, pedal sinks, closes bleeder before i reach bottom of pedal
- repeat.
correct bleeding order confirmed. what else? i can crack the abs module and let out fluid there but the car has engaged abs plenty of times. wondering if it is rotor/pad contact, maybe not sitting evenly on it? though i'd think after some hard driving that is a non-issue.
fwiw, these brakes have never been as rock solid firm as i've wanted them to be. i wonder if it's cuz i had the front calipers powder-coated and they split them to do that? heard mixed opinions on whether that's a no-no or it's ok.
process:
- pump the pedal
- open bleeder, pedal sinks, closes bleeder before i reach bottom of pedal
- repeat.
correct bleeding order confirmed. what else? i can crack the abs module and let out fluid there but the car has engaged abs plenty of times. wondering if it is rotor/pad contact, maybe not sitting evenly on it? though i'd think after some hard driving that is a non-issue.
fwiw, these brakes have never been as rock solid firm as i've wanted them to be. i wonder if it's cuz i had the front calipers powder-coated and they split them to do that? heard mixed opinions on whether that's a no-no or it's ok.
Last edited by kyoo; Jun 25, 2019 at 10:13 AM.
#73
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Calipers may need rebuilt. There's no reason to bleed the brakes that much. They're either good or they aren't.
#74
1. pull out oem shim test (low likelihood)
2. pull out ti shim test (low-med likelihood)
3. re-add oem shim no ti shim, test (low likelihood)
4. crack open abs bleeder, test (low likelihood)
5. test new pads (low-med likelihood)
6. get new rotors, test (low likelihood)
i'm really hoping not to have to rebuild the calipers.. i have the ss pistons from racing brake with the vents built in - gonna have to get all new ones? or are you referring to just the seals and dust boots?
7. rebuild calipers (med likelihood)
#75
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
We smoked the front calipers at one half mile event with 12 hard slow downs from 170-180 to ~60.
Check dust boot condition and the piston pull back when you release the brakes.
Check dust boot condition and the piston pull back when you release the brakes.