they looked pretty flat but the pads are total garbage. will be swapping them next year

 

Just wondering if you've swapped your pads out yet.

 

If you look in his build thread I think, he found that the girodisc Ti shim was going on top of the rivet for the pad wear indicator. Causing the shim to not be flat on the pad, which introduced a lot fo space between the caliper piston and pad. Creating a soft pedal.

 

I wonder if this is my issue as well.

Thinking about swapping my pads out and using something other than EBC.

 

If you have the girodisc Ti shims on your EBC yellows, yes, youhave this issue. I had to notch my shims when I was running those pads.

 

I don't though. I'm using the built in shims and my pedal feel is still crap. It's highly annoying.

 

they are still working on the re-shaped ti shims, FYI, but should be soon.

The pad situation however (one crumbling, one smoking) they are saying is normal, so they won't give a replacement. I should probably just go with ST43s though.

 

I advise having two sets of pads if you go with ST43's. If used for street driving where they never really get hot, ST43's are very hard on rotors.

 

hmm i see - thought they were decent on the rotors. Car is only driven to and from autox events, and to and from track events - in that situation, run the ST43s? or no? Maybe some light street driving once in a while but other than that, nothing. thoughts?

 

That would be fine. My friend still puts 7-8k miles on his Evo annually, so its still driven a decent amount on the street.

Be prepared to sound like a freight train when pulling up to stops

 

kk - i put on 3-5 on the upper end of the scale.

 

the evo's brakes feel soft again after my last track day. we did 150 open/close sequences on each caliper, went through like a 1.5 gallons of fluid. it's srf, so i'm burning liquid gold. the setup is dba5000's in front, recently turned, and st43s, ti shim (sits flush on back of pad), and oem shim. i may still pull the shims to see, but we are not seeing any air as we flush.

process:
- pump the pedal
- open bleeder, pedal sinks, closes bleeder before i reach bottom of pedal
- repeat.

correct bleeding order confirmed. what else? i can crack the abs module and let out fluid there but the car has engaged abs plenty of times. wondering if it is rotor/pad contact, maybe not sitting evenly on it? though i'd think after some hard driving that is a non-issue.

fwiw, these brakes have never been as rock solid firm as i've wanted them to be. i wonder if it's cuz i had the front calipers powder-coated and they split them to do that? heard mixed opinions on whether that's a no-no or it's ok.

 

Calipers may need rebuilt. There's no reason to bleed the brakes that much. They're either good or they aren't.

 

even though they were just rebuilt start of 2018? got a few things on the docket to check, aside from bleeding brakes:

1. pull out oem shim test (low likelihood)
2. pull out ti shim test (low-med likelihood)
3. re-add oem shim no ti shim, test (low likelihood)
4. crack open abs bleeder, test (low likelihood)
5. test new pads (low-med likelihood)
6. get new rotors, test (low likelihood)

i'm really hoping not to have to rebuild the calipers.. i have the ss pistons from racing brake with the vents built in - gonna have to get all new ones? or are you referring to just the seals and dust boots?
7. rebuild calipers (med likelihood)

 

We smoked the front calipers at one half mile event with 12 hard slow downs from 170-180 to ~60.

Check dust boot condition and the piston pull back when you release the brakes.