I've bled the ABS module with the use of a power bleeder and I still have issues. I'm curious to see how this works for you kyoo.

 

what else have you tried? bled abs module = hook up pressure bleeder and crack open the lines at the top?

curious think about the abs lines - they go up vertical a bit before turning don't they? why would air be stuck in the abs module as opposed to having worked up to being stuck at the top of the hard line connected to it?

 

Yeah, that's how I bled the abs module.

And I've tried "almost" everything you have, except activating abs by hitting the brakes while the car is in the air. I've just been driving around and activating abs that way.

 

ok. im going to try bleeding the abs module this week, will keep you all posteds

 

I'm out of popcorn can you send me some please!? Also, you know of a good dentist; I've got a kernel stuck in my teeth...

 

well i bled the abs module... but no air came out. bummer there. fluid pulsed out a little but nothing in the way of bubbling. i bled a little bit more and i'll give it a spin tomorrow

 

did you crack open each fitting?

also, what method did you use to bleed the mani?

 

yes, each of the 4 at the top. it was a nightmare to get a good handle on each, every other line is in the way of every line

method was pressure bleed.

brakes actually felt a little better today. i autoxed, and hit abs quite a lot so im going to bleed the calipers once more. however, they still started smoking after my second run.

this is really unusual and i've got to think it has something to do with the pads (girodisc s/s). they turned from orange to white after the track day i took them out on, maybe something about it messed up the pads a little. was hot enough to melt the center caps on the oem BBS wheels..

i'm going to pull the shims for the next event and see how the brakes feel there. i'm also going to reinstall the brake air guides in hopes that will cool it down a little so I don't have to drive the car around to get the brakes to cool down

 

bump. any chance it could be the brake pedal assembly itself, how the line connects through the firewall, anything like that?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-MITSUBISHI-LANCER-EVOLUTION-OEM-FACTORY-BRAKE-PEDAL-ASSEMBLY-06-EVO-9/112118911291?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150313114020%26meid%3D72ac848fee914964912c017684b13e06%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D13%26sd%3D111052592036
pretty cheap on ebay to get the assembly, if it's possible it could be that

::

so we've got shims, pads, something to do with the assembly, possibly still air, though it gets less and less likely each bleed. the road race guys clarified that it wouldn't be the wheel bearing if the brakes are soft when the car is sitting still, which it is, so that is out. i engaged abs a ton at the last event so i'm going to do a comprehensive bleed, maybe another half gallon and see what comes out. then pull the shims and see how the car feels

 

bump, any other ideas would still be appreciated

 

I have a feeling you ruined the pads, and the "mushy" feeling is really you having to stand on the pedal to get the car to stop, or the pads became squishy from being severely overheated because they are not up to track duty.

 

thanks bud - i'll give swapping them a shot too!

 

I've installed new pads recently, no change in pedal feel for me.

 

yuge update - turned out my titanium shims were almost entirely the problem.

i bled once more today and still felt the soft pedal. i pulled the car back in, changed nothing but removing the pads, didn't bleed again or anything, and immediately i got the pedal back that I am used to with this car. All this time, all the fluid & parts changed... and turned out to be the shim.

I've heard of titanium shims causing soft pedals but didn't really understand why that would be the case. I think part of the problem is due to how the back of the Girodisc pads are designed - on one side, there is a bump that protrudes out. The shim actually can't sit perfectly flush against the back of the pad because of this. My theory is that's part of the reason the pads felt so unnaturally soft. I'll test this when I get a new pad, which may be sooner than later because...

I think the Girodisc pads are toast. The shims don't really account for the pads smoking, unless possibly they were blocking any heat from transferring out and cause the pads the overheat. But also, when I took the pads off today I found this:



Definitely didn't look like that last time I pulled the pads, which wasn't too long ago. I think the track day killed them, and this one is crumbling and obviously has that streak of broken off area in the middle... Regardless, happy to finally have figured out the problem with the brakes! I'm sure I still have a little bit of air in the brakes, which I'll work to remove from regular brake flushes.

 

Check the shins for flatness. If they're warped, at all, they can cause a long or soft pedal.