Soft Pedal Solutions - Rd. 2
#106
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Pads zorched.
You can run them and deal with it, or replace. Depends if you can heel-toe with however deep the brake pedal goes.
You can run them and deal with it, or replace. Depends if you can heel-toe with however deep the brake pedal goes.
#108
After actually driving on the road with the street pads, I can definitely feel the brakes biting earlier, but they still feel like mush for the top portion.
Drove the car to work this morning, and after I parked, I took a video of what I mean:
Is this normal, or abnormal?
May just go ahead and rebuild the calipers here I guess
Drove the car to work this morning, and after I parked, I took a video of what I mean:
Is this normal, or abnormal?
May just go ahead and rebuild the calipers here I guess
#109
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
Did you ever end up rebuilding the calipers? If so, how did that turn out?
I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.
What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:
I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.
What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:
- pressure bleed the brake lines
- bleed the mastery cyinder
- bleed the brake lines via 2-man method
#110
Did you ever end up rebuilding the calipers? If so, how did that turn out?
I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.
What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:
I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.
What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:
- pressure bleed the brake lines
- bleed the mastery cyinder
- bleed the brake lines via 2-man method
#111
EvoM Community Team Leader
If you have squish try bleeding with the caliper pistons fully seated (like new pads or maybe with a spreader installed). I have a feeling this might be an issue of air getting trapped in the piston cylinders and not coming out when bleeding.
#113
Evolved Member
Did you ever end up rebuilding the calipers? If so, how did that turn out?
I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.
What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:
I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.
What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:
- pressure bleed the brake lines
- bleed the mastery cyinder
- bleed the brake lines via 2-man method
we did a major car overhaul during which the abs unit went dry... after that I could not get all the air out of the system until we connected a diagnostic unit and manually operated the abs unit while bleeding the brakes... now we have a nice firm pedal..
#114
Evolved Member
iTrader: (25)
did you activate the abs unit when you bled the system.?
we did a major car overhaul during which the abs unit went dry... after that I could not get all the air out of the system until we connected a diagnostic unit and manually operated the abs unit while bleeding the brakes... now we have a nice firm pedal..
we did a major car overhaul during which the abs unit went dry... after that I could not get all the air out of the system until we connected a diagnostic unit and manually operated the abs unit while bleeding the brakes... now we have a nice firm pedal..
#115
Evolved Member
we used some generic OBD tool that could talk to lancer abs unit.. You can activate individual abs valves for a few sec (you hear the abs motor spin), and during that time you bleed that brake line... start with rears, then do the fronts..
Evoscan should be able to do it with proper cable too, but I did not use evoscan.... Of course, mitsubishi MUT tool can do it.. IIRC the procedure is in the service manual. Without this procedure it is almost impossible to get the air out of the abs unit..
Evoscan should be able to do it with proper cable too, but I did not use evoscan.... Of course, mitsubishi MUT tool can do it.. IIRC the procedure is in the service manual. Without this procedure it is almost impossible to get the air out of the abs unit..
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