Pads zorched.

You can run them and deal with it, or replace. Depends if you can heel-toe with however deep the brake pedal goes.

 

got new ones waiting in the wings. what caused that? i thought these can take anything throw at them, and i'm really not that hard on them..

 

After actually driving on the road with the street pads, I can definitely feel the brakes biting earlier, but they still feel like mush for the top portion.

Drove the car to work this morning, and after I parked, I took a video of what I mean:


Is this normal, or abnormal?

May just go ahead and rebuild the calipers here I guess

 

Did you ever end up rebuilding the calipers? If so, how did that turn out?

I'm having this mushy pedal with 2.5" travel after re-powder coating the calipers (they were split in half), installing new Girodisc piston seals and dust boots, getting new Girodisc rotors, Girodisc titanium shims, but re-using my previous RB ET800 brake pads.

What I have tried to help this situation, but didn't solve the problem:

1. pressure bleed the brake lines
2. bleed the mastery cyinder
3. bleed the brake lines via 2-man method

 

are the ti shims sitting flush against the backing plate of the pad?

 

If you have squish try bleeding with the caliper pistons fully seated (like new pads or maybe with a spreader installed). I have a feeling this might be an issue of air getting trapped in the piston cylinders and not coming out when bleeding.

 

I checked them out today and the shims appear like they're sitting flush against the pads. I had someone push the brake pedal while I watched the pads clamp, and it did not show any signs of shim flex.

 

did you activate the abs unit when you bled the system.?

we did a major car overhaul during which the abs unit went dry... after that I could not get all the air out of the system until we connected a diagnostic unit and manually operated the abs unit while bleeding the brakes... now we have a nice firm pedal..

 

Not yet. What tool did you use for this procedure? and how did you do the procedure?

 

we used some generic OBD tool that could talk to lancer abs unit.. You can activate individual abs valves for a few sec (you hear the abs motor spin), and during that time you bleed that brake line... start with rears, then do the fronts..
Evoscan should be able to do it with proper cable too, but I did not use evoscan.... Of course, mitsubishi MUT tool can do it.. IIRC the procedure is in the service manual. Without this procedure it is almost impossible to get the air out of the abs unit..

 

Has anyone used Evoscan to activate the ABS system so they can bleed and flush it out?

 

it's likely not the abs. i would activate abs between rounds to pump new fluid through