I've tried to heel toe in thong flip flops and got the flop of the flip flop stuck under the accelerator pedal


-pal215

 

Lol better than stuck under the brake pedal!

I hate driving in flip flops but its tolerable with the thong style. No thong and sh*t hits the fan; Ive done that before and had them fall off. I dont remember what I was doing it wasnt a huge deal but it too got lodged somewhere and I didn't enjoy it haha.

 

This but first....

When you replaced your parts, pads etc... did you replace them with the same parts as previous?

Mushy pedal is a sign of fluid consumption, somewhere in the system is displacing more fluid.
1) Air
2) brake hoses
3) Caliper (seals, pistons type)
4) Friction (compressibility based on friction type, thickness, shims, material)
5) Dashboard deflection (did you crack you dash? jk)
6) Master Cylinder (leaking)


Otherwise....

Please explain your manual bleeding "procedure"
I think more importantly, which caliper and which bank (inboard/outboard) do you start with, and then how do you proceed to 2nd, 3rd, 4th caliper.

Sometimes the procedure is very important, I didn't believe it until I did my differently and it worked.

 

See most answers above in bold - most of which should have been addressed already in the OP.

The manual bleeding procedure: Order is RR, LF, LR, RF, outside valve, then inside valve. I'm on the brakes, girlfriend on the valve. I press and hold, call out "open," she yells back "open," then I call out "close," and she yells back "close," then I wait an additional second while holding the brake before I let go, in case she was late in closing the valve. Repeat in the order mentioned above. Same order for pressure bleeding, minus the brake pumping obviously.

I'm really happy with the rebuilt calipers I got, and my rears the clearcoat has started to peel/look bad - so I'm going to have the rears rebuilt, and going to replace the stainless lines during, since I might as well with things being disconnected.

Also, a number of people mentioned their wheel bearings silently going bad, resulting in soft pedal - I don't see any other symptoms though, so I don't think it is that.

 

You shouldn't pump the pedal in between opening the bleeder. the master fills itself, no need to pump. Just give it 5-10 seconds to fill. Pumping the pedal can aerate the fluid in the master.

 

sorry, hit edit instead of quote up there - I'm not pumping, I'm just pushing and holding - will correct my wording up top.

 

what I was alluding to was, yesterday, I had an autox event where I codrove the car with a friend. ambient temps in the 60s in the morning, though sunny.

we were able to drive around the soft pedal issue somewhat, but was perplexing was the pads started smoking after the 9th run the car made, on a 40s course that was not braking intensive. save for the end, where we had to slow from 65ish to walking pace, not much use of brakes at all. the car was struggling to slow down enough in the slow-down zone, and we took cool-down drives to get the brakes cooled down.

so, not only are the brakes not braking very hard, both in soft pedal & in actual braking, but they're also braking enough that, on a cool day, the brakes started smoking? doesn't seem to add up, you'd think it'd be one or the other. That's why I was thinking possibly brake drag?

 

That definitely doesn't make sense. Smoke brakes means they're really hot, or at least well out of their temp range.

 

Yeah and that's what i don't understand is how to smoked those pads...The only time I overheated those on my car was when they were too thin and I hotlapped it a few times in a row. But my course is twice the size of yours at least and my car has ~150WHP more and moar rubber. Something still doesnt add up here.

What causes pads to drag? Is it possible your codriver and/ or you ride the brakes?

As far as soft pedal as I said to you via email a soft pedal means something is compressing and my guess is still air. Now the braking force that you exert when you press the pedal isnt all going towards pushing the fluid which in turns pushes on the pistons but its actually being used to compress the air so you lose some braking power. But the pads should be able to still stop hard if you push the pedal harder in theory.

 

we're definitely not riding on brakes or left foot braking. the course wasn't hard on brakes either.

so we've got light brakes from air or some other issue, meaning at the very least we're not using full braking power when we get on the brakes, and at the same time brakes are either dragging or being used enough that is causing them to get super hot?

 

If I follow you correctly all this time you have been doing a traditional two-person bleed. I suspect that your bleeder valves have not been changed and are OEM. They could be letting air in through the threads of the bleeder valve.

Why don't you try these Russell Speed Bleeders? They make it a One Man job.

https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...productid=1771

 

He's done both 2 man as well as using his Motive Power Bleeder. I know what youre saying but how it it possibly letting in air assuming the bleeder is only cracked open when the brake pedal is pushed down or the power bleeder has positive pressure on the system?

He also bought replacement calipers so the bleeders are new/ newish and should be in good shape.

Im still on the boat that he just needs to step up his bleeding game and keep bleeding as Ive been saying for the past 2 months now. It's just hard to keep doing the same thing without going insane after a while wondering why no change is occurring.

The speed bleeders arent a bad idea regardless and I thought about picking up some myself in the past but never got around to it.

I just don't want him swapping parts left and right in the quest of bleeding as it'll get expensive very quickly. Not to mention everytime something is replaced more air is introduced into the system.

 

Since this all started when you smoked the brakes the problem has to lie where the heat was.

 

going to install the AMS ss lines this week/weekend, replacing the russell ss lines

does anyone make anything of the black flecks coming out when i bleed the front brakes lately? could it be inner lining of the lines?

 

I have seen brake bleeder valves go bad. Either debris gets stuck inside the bleeder valve or air comes out through the threads on the bottom.

As old as the Evo is now valves and other similar parts should be checked before being put into use.