anyone who's got cnbc on at work now seen that at&t redbull commercial where they show the f1 cars brakes heating up to 1000c (1800f)? is that in any way accurate? I would assume it's pretty low, but then again they're race cars so everything goes out the window

 

The core temp of the rotor is typically 1500*F. I'm sure the surface is 200-500 hotter. You have to remember that they run optimized cooling (read minimal) cooling ducts for each track they go to. The brake temps are perfectly regulated on those cars.

 

carbon ceramic brakes also need some heat to work optimal.

 

Did notice when I was changing the wheels the other day - the two center BBS caps melted & deformed - not unheard of and I do hear a lot of track day groups ask you not to run center caps, but pretty rare for the BBS ones to do that, as far as I know.

I think the brakes are dragging some, possibly due to failure in the lines (which I'm hoping is the cause of my soft brakes issue)

 

Brakes that are dragging light on fire because they just keep getting hotter and hotter, I don't think that's your issue. And when brake lines fail, especially braided stainless lines, its usually a full failure. Worth a try though since a set of lines is only $120.

 

i'll move this to soft brake discussion

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-rd-2-a-2.html

 

idk that I ever clarified my issue here - basically the speculation girodisc had was, their titanium shims, which doesn't fit their own pads due to a tab (hump) on the back of their pads, caused both the soft brakes & the overheating scenario. soft brakes because the shim was bending where the tab was, overheating because the shim would act like a spring when it flattened/straightened out when I got off the brakes, pushing the pad back against the rotor, causing temps to skyrocket.

girodisc is redesigning their titanium shims to have a version that fits their pads, which I may try - or just run a pad that has a flat back and use the ones I've got, if they're not ruined.

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA


Sorry, I was laughing at Girodisc, not you. What a joke.


I did notice their shims hit the rivet for the low pad "squealer" tang when I had EBC's on the car. I had to grind a notch in them for the rear pads. But that could totally cause all of your problems.

 

yea that was pretty much it. they were surprised no one had ever brought it up, but they speculated also that anyone using the ti shims was probably using a pretty heavy duty track pad. but still...

I noticed it too when I installed the pads, that it wasn't exactly a perfect fit due to the tab/bump on the back of the pad. should have done a little more critical thinking regarding what it was doing.

leaves me overall more excited to get back out there. I've completely revamped the braking system now (lol). I've got racing brake's ss pistons, the titanium shims, will get st43s, dba 5000 front 4000 rear and reinstalled the brake air guides. only thing I don't have now then is ducting, but again, im still just doing HPDEs. I didn't overheat even my OEM pads when I did the first track day, I just wore them down to nothing. Hopefully with everything revamped I can have a nice, fun track day without worrying about the brakes overheating.

 

You should be good to go now. My calipers have stock pistons. I just have the ST43's, brake air guides, and racing brake one piece directional vane rotors. And a lot more power and tire, and my brakes hold up great.

 

Man... My PF01's have the same little bump on the back, and I sort of wondered if that might have a springy effect like you described, but then I figured that if it was a problem, someone surely would've mentioned it earlier, and/or the pads wouldn't be made with the bump, right?

At least I decided to grind off that hump just to be safe last spring I think. Glad I did.

 

i think a lot of pads actually have this bump - including, if i'm not mistaken, the oem pads. i'm not an engineer so i don't know what use they serve. they shouldn't be in contact with the pistons so i don't think it comes into play unless you put a full shim on there like i did.

 

I don't know if these have been posted here or not (didn't read all 8 pages) but Izze is making some boards using the Melexis 90621 IR sensors. Its setup for a CAN system to integrate with other data logging systems. I just bought a Racecapture pro for logging and will work on integrating tire temperature sensors with it.

If you're a maker (everyone has their own CNC and 3D printer right?) you could also buy the raw sensor, make your own board, create housing/mounting, and read it all with an Arduino/Raspberry Pi which all the information is out there to learn. I've got the old single point sensor working on Arduino after watching Jeremy Blum's YouTube video on it. Its a little tricky but not too bad if you keep at it. I think the harder part might be how to present the data collected.

 

You have a link to it?

Is the CAN mapping going to be user configurable or set? Last time I dug into datalogging I came to the conclusion that CAN would be the only way to get all of the data wanted. CAN module with Analog Inputs (similar to a Remote I/O) at each corner and one in the engine bay and bring it all back to a datalogger.

Then I found out the CAN modules to do something like that were $800/ea (Texense or Axiomatic).

 

Racecapture Pro is CAN based. They are also coming out with their "legacy adapter" for older OBD2 cars like ours, should be released in the next couple weeks. The whole setup with Bluetooth should be under 600 for 50hz GPS logging along with accelerometer and yaw data. I'm going to also hardwire all the sensors I really care about like boost, oil pressure, AFR, TPS, etc. The direct logging frequency is way faster than OBD. Will get things from OBD that are harder to wire like RPM, knock, timing, etc.