Oh yeah, meant to link the webpage..

http://www.izzeracing.com/products/b...e-sensors.html

Here's the brake sensor but they have some other things there like strain gauge that's pretty interesting too.

 

ive been eyeing out there tire temp sensors. would be so useful to do alignment adjustment and tire pressure.

 

bumping this old thread as I look toward my next HPDE. Raybestos ST43s & Castrol SRF are on the docket, but I'm curious - do I need more? i.e., ducting? I'm still pushing a very mild 315-320hp, car weighs 3170 lbs without driver, but I've boiled brakes & cooked the calipers brown in the past.

I know it's very driver dependent and a lot of that can come from novices riding the brakes too earlier - I'm inclined to believe I'm not riding the brakes too much - at least once I start hot lapping, I'm waiting longer and longer and braking later & later - typical brake induced overheating comes from riding brakes too long, correct?

Or, more relevantly, if the pads are in operating temp of what I am getting them to & the fluid is not boiling, should I really be concerned with how hot the brakes get?

 

The brake air guides would help. Running street tires, you should be fine.

 

yup I do have those, the OEM MR ones. I've got corrected titanium shims for the girodisc pads but i'll probably be running regular shims with the raybestos & srf. hopefully that is enough not to boil for once

 

I would still run the Ti shims. True race pads are better at shedding heat than a more "street" pad. So, if you have issues with fluid boiling with the ST43's, I would look at your driving. Especially since they are a pad that is well proven to work on our cars.

 

definitely, will do.

 

I think you need actual ducting. Once I installed some ducting to the brakes, all fade went away. I bought binary engineering brake ducts(before Dallas had made his) and 2" ducting from racer parts whole sale. Zip tied them to the front grills, not pretty but it works for sure. For reference I was around 320whp at the time, maybe 50lbs lighter, stoptech cryo rotors, hawk Street/race pads, amsoil brake fluid

 

My car makes ~430whp in track trim. ST43's and air guides and my brakes do fine. No need for ducts at 320whp on street tire's with the right pad.

 

you squeezed it above the undertray? any issues with clearance with the brake ducts, lock to lock with anything?

i'll definitely take this into consideration but the pads & fluids I mentioned are much more robust than amsoil's, the wet boiling point of Castrol being 100 degrees F hotter.

 

No I just made sure I ziptied them out the way. And no clearance issues at all on the ducts.

 

I mean, you must have ziptied them in a way that reaches the grill, i.e., above the undertray? unless you don't have one?

good that the ducts don't have any clearance issues, looked a little tight to the axles at certain angles.

if st43s and Castrol srf still result in pedal mushiness, I will have to add the ducting.

 

Remember also it's not that you're actually boiling amsoil or Castrol - that would take a lot more effort. I've set ST43's on fire before either of those fluids boiled on me (too light of a pad for me but I don't run streets). It's all about the compressability once it gets WARM. There's a graph somewhere that showed it, I think on the Torque or redline fluid thread, I forget which. As the fluid heats up it loose the ability to compress more then other fluids (which is the WHOLE POINT of brake fluid). We went over that in that thread for awhile.

 

ah right - there was something about the endless fluid that had good compressability or something right?

given that I've boiled the red line after a 15 minute session (though, I still think the brake setup with the shims was pushing the brake against the rotor) I am still shooting for not losing brakes from boiled fluid. Hopefully I don't set fire to ST43s lol, I'm just doing normal HPDEs. though I did set fire to my girodiscs & cooked my brembos as well...

Is there any problem with using a brand new pad for a track day in the sense that, it's going to be really jammed in there if you're using shims? ie, much more forced contact than if there was more room and to back off a little?

 

I wouldn't think so