How to Delete power steering properly(question)
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
How to Delete power steering properly(question)
so ive removed my power steering. Dont want it, dont need it.
so 2 questions about it
1-What do i do about the lines going to the power steering rack?
i heard of people making custom lines and just looping them, which could work
but i heard of another method where people take it all apart, and fill it with grease instead. I can't find any information about how to do it the right way. i would sooner
do it that way then just loop the lines, but i geus either or i need your guy's opinions please!
2-the belt, now the serpentine belt powers the water pump, alternator and goes to a
ams ac delete pully and would go to the power steering pump. What should i do now that, that p/s pump/pulley wont be there? would a custom smaller belt work? would i need to do somthing custom and make a pully replicating the pump/pully?
the reasons i am deleting it is because 1, i have to because im putting a magnus intake manifold and it will be right in the way(have to).
little weight savings and looks a little cleaner and easier to work on
i have no problem struggling in parking lots without it, once your going i feel like power steering isn't a issue without it!
so 2 questions about it
1-What do i do about the lines going to the power steering rack?
i heard of people making custom lines and just looping them, which could work
but i heard of another method where people take it all apart, and fill it with grease instead. I can't find any information about how to do it the right way. i would sooner
do it that way then just loop the lines, but i geus either or i need your guy's opinions please!
2-the belt, now the serpentine belt powers the water pump, alternator and goes to a
ams ac delete pully and would go to the power steering pump. What should i do now that, that p/s pump/pulley wont be there? would a custom smaller belt work? would i need to do somthing custom and make a pully replicating the pump/pully?
the reasons i am deleting it is because 1, i have to because im putting a magnus intake manifold and it will be right in the way(have to).
little weight savings and looks a little cleaner and easier to work on
i have no problem struggling in parking lots without it, once your going i feel like power steering isn't a issue without it!
The following users liked this post:
EVOX2015 (May 13, 2019)
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Most people I know have just looped the power steering lines when a manual rack wasn't available (VW swaps but same concept)
You can get a shorter belt as long as the routing still works. Run a piece of string around your new belt routing and mark the string where it completes the loop. Then lay it out and measure.
Now run it again with the tensioner fully compressed. Measure again.
The length you want is basically half way inbetween the two measurements.
Dayco has a nice part finder:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=20
Otherwise, a veteran parts store guy can help you find the right belt.
You can get a shorter belt as long as the routing still works. Run a piece of string around your new belt routing and mark the string where it completes the loop. Then lay it out and measure.
Now run it again with the tensioner fully compressed. Measure again.
The length you want is basically half way inbetween the two measurements.
Dayco has a nice part finder:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=20
Otherwise, a veteran parts store guy can help you find the right belt.
The following users liked this post:
mattsrbu (Aug 23, 2016)
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Most people I know have just looped the power steering lines when a manual rack wasn't available (VW swaps but same concept)
You can get a shorter belt as long as the routing still works. Run a piece of string around your new belt routing and mark the string where it completes the loop. Then lay it out and measure.
Now run it again with the tensioner fully compressed. Measure again.
The length you want is basically half way inbetween the two measurements.
Dayco has a nice part finder:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=20
Otherwise, a veteran parts store guy can help you find the right belt.
You can get a shorter belt as long as the routing still works. Run a piece of string around your new belt routing and mark the string where it completes the loop. Then lay it out and measure.
Now run it again with the tensioner fully compressed. Measure again.
The length you want is basically half way inbetween the two measurements.
Dayco has a nice part finder:
http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-...1?part_type=20
Otherwise, a veteran parts store guy can help you find the right belt.
and about the belt to awsome reply exactly what i was looking for! thanks alot i really do appriciate good advice/information!
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
You shouldn't need to flush the fluid out unless it's filthy.
As for the loop, it's up to you. Basically you just need the fluid to be able to squish around and not leak out. I've seen everything from Home Depot copper fittings, to custom aluminum setups and everything inbetween. Including just a piece of PS hose on barbs and braided AN lines.
As for the loop, it's up to you. Basically you just need the fluid to be able to squish around and not leak out. I've seen everything from Home Depot copper fittings, to custom aluminum setups and everything inbetween. Including just a piece of PS hose on barbs and braided AN lines.
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