sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

This may get updated progressively as I work on it... so bear with me!

Installing the sway bar is incredibly easy and this step by step should help you through it even more!

Tools you need:

Jack
2 Jack Stands,
12 mm socket and wrench
14 mm socket (deep well if possible)
15 mm wrench

Steps:
Raise Car
Remove old sway bar
Install new sway bar
Lower Car
Finalize sway bar

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

Although this seems obvious, some people aren't completely sure how to go about properly raising the car and supporting it on jackstands.

Always jack on a smooth, level, and hard surface and use good jackstand. Check to make sure there aren't any cracked teeth or damage to the stand legs.

To raise the rear of the car make sure you have the emergency brake on and the car in gear. Chock the front wheels with boards of some sort for additional safety.

Place your jack centered on the car and use the center support where the rear swing arms connect together. There is a round hole in the middle that you can catch one of the teeth of jack in to make sure it doesn't slide. DO NOT use a board jacking on this point as the board WILL slip.

Jack the car up until the tires clear the cround by about 1". Then place the jackstands on the jacking points on each side of the car (they are the two parts of the steel flange that has little punches on either side. It is a 2" long section that is solid enough for supporting the car and is the same location used to jack the car up to change the tire). If you are more comfortable with a different stand point that you are comfortable with go ahead and use that too!

Once the stands are positioned, lower the car slowly on to them. OPTIONAL: Raise the jack back up until it makes initial contact with the support again just as an extra measure.

Now you are ready to start taking things apart!

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

To remove the sway bar, first remove the nut that is recessed inside the swing arm with the 14mm socket on each end of hthe bar. (Point B)

The end link will want to turn. You can allow it to do so, but you risk damaging it. If you want to keep the bar in good condition for future use, use a 12 mm box end wrench to hold point A and prevent the end link from turning.

Once the nut is removed you'll be able to remove the bushing and washer that was held on under the swing arm.

After that has been completed for both sides, you can remove the C clamp bracket (Point C) with a 12 mm socket.

The sway bar is now free and can be removed.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

This is essentially the reverse of the sway bar removal, but with slight changes due to the differences of the new bar from the old.

First place the urethane c-clamp bushing on the short portion between the curves as seen in the picture below. You can easily slide the C-clamp over it to keep everything together while positioning the bar.

When setting up the bar to install it you need to not that the end sections of the bar are bent to a different height than the main length of the bar. You need to make sure that the long portion of the bar is lower than the ends. this allows for the exhaust pipe to pass over the bar in between the ends. (See Picture)

With the bar properly oriented put the bar in place and use the stock nuts to hold the C-clamps in place. Tighten down only until the c-clamp makes contact. Do not tighten all of the way. Do this for both sides.

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

Next you install the end links. To do so first put on a provided washer so that it cups toward the bushing that slides on next. Slide the first bushing on such that the flat face contacts the washer with the small raised portion facing away from the bolt head.

Put this bolt/washer/single bushing combo through the sway bar end from the top.

Next slide another bushing onto the bar with the flat portion facing away from the other bushing (toward the ground). Install a washer with the cup toward the flat of the bushing again, and then slide on the steel sleeve that is provided. Then another washer and a bushing with the flat facing up (toward the rest of the assembly). Then pass the end of the bolt into the swing arm. Repeat this for the other side as well.

At this point in time you can try and install the last bushing/washer/ not combo with the bushing going on, then the washer cupped up against he flat of the bushing and then the nut. However, it is somewhat difficult to try and get the nut to thread on because of the overall length.

So in my case I lowered the car all the way and then finished install. If you can thread the nut with the assembly, do so. But do NOT tighten!

End Link Assembly:

sdhotwn

iTrader: (2)

With the end links positioned with the tips of the bolt through the swing arms, carefully raise the car with the jack and remove the jackstands. Let the car all the way down to the ground gently.

With the car all the way down you can now easily pull down on the sway bar enough to get the last bushing/washer/nut on. Once the nut is threaded on now go back and tighten down the two 12mm nuts on each of the C-Clamps.

With the C-clamps tighted down now use the 15mm wrench to hold the top of the end link from turning while you use the 14mm socket to tighten the bottom of the end link. Continue tightening the nut until you can no longer turn any of the center bushings/washers by hand. When this occurs tighten the nut another turn and a half. Make sure that the bolt is near the end of the nut or protruding by a couple of threads. This is important so that the the nylon insert can work properly to make sure that the nut does not vibrate off!

Now everything is installed and should look good!

Congratulations on the install and now go have some fun (but be careful of course, and keep in mind that there are many reported cases of the stock perches (where the C-Clamp attaches) snapping under the stress of your stiffere suspension).