CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

those are just bearings an seals...you have gear damage...rebuilding the shafts will require a hydraulic press, a really good collection of pressing dies, and not to mention the shafts and gears...even at $1000, it would still be cheaper to get used tranny...a new input shaft alone is over $200, add that to the bearing and seal kit, and you'll still need at least one synchro set, and probably gears and sleeves...it won't be cheap...

manual transmission lancers aren't that rare...plus this gearbox was used on every 2.0 and 2.4L motor in every model for nearly 10 years...

jimbo74

so I was quoted $550-800 for a rebuild today... I might end up going that route.... I am just hoping they don't find anything that isn't going to be covered in that $800, or if they will make it work for that $800

I would have to drive about 2 hours to drop it off to them, and would be R&R ing it myself... but if it will be $800 straight, then I am definitely down with that.....


another question..... so reverse is kinda working, if i baby the clutch, I mean really feather it, and I hold the shifter in reverse, the car will creep in reverse.... 5th still wont work though..... If I don't baby the clutch in R, it will pop out and make that gnashing sound

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

yeah, your synchros are ****ed, probably, and you may have a bad shift fork as well...also that rebuild quote is most likely just bearings and seals plus labour...if they need to replace synchros and gears, you could easily double the quote...like I said if 1st or second is damaged, they are part of the input and output shaft, as in they are machined right into the shaft, both shafts together are like $400+ plus they would have to press off every single gear, remove all the needle bearings etc. rebuild the shafts etc...that would be VERY costly.

factory new transmission is like 2,800, so don't pay $2,000 for a rebuild.

jimbo74

is this correct?

http://cobratransmission.com/f5m42-s...45fd68c89fe7bc



I have read everything here, and I do understand what is involved. As I have not yet pulled the case, I don't know what I will or wont need until that time comes. If I do need more parts, or don't that will be an issue for a later time. I am just trying to get together what I need, for right now, at minimum



is it possible that the rtanny fluid I put in had some detrimental effect on what is going on? I don't think so, but it is worth a shot at asking. I got the Royal Purple

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/max-gear/

Max Gear is recommended for use in truck and automotive front or rear differentials, manual transmissions and lower gear units of marine engines that specify use of an API GL-5 or GL-4 fluid. It is non-corrosive to soft yellow metals (brass, bronze, copper, etc.) and synchronizer safe. Specially designed to extend gear and bearing life, Max Gear provides superior corrosion protection over competing conventional and synthetic gear oils.

We engineered this ultra-tough, high performance automotive hypoid gear oil to provide maximum protection to heavily loaded gears while maximizing power throughout the drive train. Max Gear outperforms ordinary gear oils by combining the highest quality synthetic oils with Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec® additive technology.

Max Gear makes gears run smoother, quieter, cooler and longer without overhauls. A direct reduction of drag in the drive train has huge advantage for trucks and other 4-wheel drive vehicles: better gas mileage. Max Gear is formulated with a friction modifier additive – no additional additives are necessary.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

yeah, that should work...not too sure on quality, cause I paid about that just for OEM bearings...then again, OEM can be a bit of a rip off, but I prefer the peace of mind, if I can afford it.


the kit you found looks like a good place to start, but take note of the fine print though, it says you may need to order the diff bearings separately.



Royal purple is fine...I think you draining less than a half quart of most likely silver oil, probably did more damage...heck, I bet motor oil would be better than NO oil...

jimbo74

So in doing some more research, I have been asked if I have 3 piece synchros or not. I have no idea?



Also, the oil that came out was dark, not silver at all, looked like used motor oil



And for those diff bearings, I assume I need 2 of them? If yes, I have found timken for like $20 each... looks like they were also used in hondas and kias

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I don't know about the bearings...Mitsubishi and Chrysler use the same in some applications...your 1st and 2nd gear synchros are 2 pieces (a pair of synchronizer rings), 3 pieces if you include the spring...not sure what is meant by that, the rest are singles...forget if reverse is dual or not...

mcgarvey

This is silly. Nobody is going to rebuild a transmission that's been run out of oil for $800. That quote would be to maybe replace the synchros, diff bearings, and input shaft bearing- not gear shafts and the differential, which i can guarantee are toast. They're going to split that case open, see the damage, and tell you it's going to be another 2000 in parts. Just get a used transmission.

On second thought- the OP doesn't understand that if the transmission fluid is low, then it leaked out. If he doesn't understand this, he doesn't understand much. Look for this car soon at a junkyard near you!

jimbo74

Please delete

jimbo74

Time to revisit this. We are going to rebuild it. I will be obtaining the parts myself and R&Ring it. I will be popping it open as well. If there is any question about the health of the internals, I will take it to a shop and ask them to look at it. Does anyone have a line on parts for it? Looking for opinions on jobber stuff, and oe. Of course, I want to keep it cheap, but I don't want to run inferior bearings and such.


Are there really an jobber type kits that include everything? Or is this something where ordering each piece from the dealership is going to need to be done?

Does Mits OE have a kit?




Ok, so for some reason, I keep seeing BK497AWS pop up...... I can't tell for sure, but is that a certain manufacturer's part number? as I have seen it on several different companies websites.... From the pictures I am seeing, I do see NSK and Koyo bearings.... I know those are good bearings, and probably the OEM anyway

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

no OEM rebuild kits...would cost a fortune....you'll need to inspect the condition of the gears upon removal...

jimbo74

so check this out!

took the lancer in for a smog... no reverse, or 5th... and a slipping clutch.....

anyways, the guy said that I needed a clutch and a linkage adjustment..... He seems to have been knowledgeable... So really wondering if I need a rebuild... but then why wont it go in reverse or 5th, and it had 4 oz of fluid in it.......

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

shift linkage is not adjustable...all gears use the same control lever, if it was a linkage issue, you wouldn't have an any gears...sounds to me like a damaged or worn shift fork, or rail...

jimbo74

well. we will find out when I open it... hopefully soon

I didn't think it was the linkage in the first place

pretty sure I jacked something up