Okay guys after 2 days of searching and searching i finally located the issue . My master clynder is leaking from a weird place. It feels like it is silycon that is used like a gastket. When you push in the clutch. The break fluid squirts out the top of that seal. Npw i need to know if it is a gasket, or do u need to re silycone it again with a sealer. Due this isue i cant use my car. This explains why my clutch looses pressure after a few seconds. SO HELP PLEASE>.......
I have a video of this but dunno how to upload it so u guys can see exactly what i'm talking about.

Cheers

Myron

 

Hehe, sillycone. (silicone)

All the service manual says is to not disassemble the clutch master cylinder, which leads me to believe that it's not serviceable. A new master cylinder will run you about $85. Mitsubishiparts.com lists a repair kit for the master cylinder, but it doesn't say what's in it, so not sure that it'd be useful.

 

Now there is clutch line that looks like it is cramped on. How do i taker that off and get it re-cramped.

 

The fluid line that comes from the brake master to the clutch master? Should just be a regular hose clamp.

 

Thanks...i just looked like it was connected to the housing...but i will take another look.
Must say if it is not fixable that really suks i really dont want to put in a new master cylinder I doint even know where to start............

 

Aside from it being in a very difficult place to get to, changing the master cylinder isn't that hard. The top (rubber) hose is held on by a hose clamp. Squeeze it and slide it up the hose a few inches, then the hose should come off the plastic barb it's on. The bottom hose has a metal end and it and two copper washers are held on by a banjo bolt. Once you get those undone, you must disconnect the master cylinder from the clutch pedal inside the car, and then remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the firewall. At that point, you should be able to remove the master cylinder from the car.

Reassembly is opposite of disassembly. When you get the part bolted in and the fluid lines reconnected, it's time to bleed the master cylinder. Take the slave cylinder fluid line apart at the joint on top of the tranny. Fill the fluid reservoir, and cap the fluid line with your thumb. Have someone else pump the clutch pedal several times, until you feel only fluid coming out of the line beneath your thumb. Then reconnect the fluid line where you took it apart, and bleed the slave cylinder as usual.


EDIT: Here's the obligatory LINK to a huge diagram of the clutch master cylinder.

 

this site there is a repair for the master cylinder.....

http://www.mitsubishicyberstore.com/...FQRGUAodS3LF2w

 

If you want to save yourself a LOT of frustration, reconnect the banjo bolt to the master cylinder BEFORE you reinstall it on the firewall. Trust me, trying to keep those two washers in place while putting the banjo bolt in is near impossible.

That repair kit is the same one that I saw on the other site, however, it doesn't say what's actually in the kit, or which master cylinder it's for (4G94 or 4G69). I don't think it's going to help you.

 

No i know we have a 4g69..what car has the 4g94 and are those parts interchangable with ours

 

4G94 is the regular Lancer, and they have a different MC than us. Their master cylinder does not have the part that is leaking on yours, and there is no part number for that part. Unless you can find out what they seal it with, you're probably going to need to replace the whole thing.

 

I had this same problem with my clutch master cylinder and slave. Wierd thing is I had this problem at 12,000 miles. I took it to and they asked me if I had a aftermarket clutch. I told them it was stock, the guy was stunned cause he said it was alot stiffer then other stock RA's. So he loosened it up for me, wasnt aware you could do that. So then the car was fine for about another 20,000 miles.. Then the car started up again, I would have trouble getting into gear. There was pressure on the clutch, it didnt feel dead. But I couldnt get the car in any gear for the life of me. And this would happen at the most random times, always happened on this one hill in my neighborhood. So I took it to a shop, he took it apart and couldnt find anything wrong with it. Said it was probably the master cylinder but he wasnt sure. Then for about 2 months the car was fine after that shop took it apart. Then it started up again. Didnt understand why it would only happen every so often. So I took it to a guy who just opened up about 1 mile from my house. Only reason was cause at that perticular day, the car had lost all pressure in the clutch and it just wouldnt move. I had to force it into gear while starting it up. He said it was the master and slave cylinder. I was charged 562.00 for everything, labor and all. This also included state inspection tho. Now did someone say that the master cylinder is only about 85 bucks? Also does any of this seem normal, for the car to act up one day, and nothing for a week..And so on... I want to contact Mitsu cause I had this problem at 12,000 miles, its documented at there service center, and they couldnt find anything wrong. Any advice...

 

well mine did almost the same thing only diff is that i got over 50k on my clock. Now it only started happening, when i put my stage 1 clutch in. but for a few months it worked fine. Then my slave cylinder went out and i replaced that, bled the system everythign was fine. Then some times it would go into gear and other times No, i had to pump the clutch to build enough pressure (pressure was there tho) to get it into gear. so i bled the system again, this time more air came out. eventually the other day, there was still pressure but would not go into any gear, and thats when i found a leak on the master cylinder. also when i bled the clutch after a few pumps, i would hear this suction noise so i followed it and thats what i found. Now i called BAP imports and they said it was like $145 and dealer was $196. That is alot at this time of year..so i dunno. i was told there is like a piston rod in side of it. My guess is that it might be leaking there for the fluid squeed out the seal. Dont worry i will get to the bottom of this lol..and get some pisc. the dealer told me WOW, Ive never sold this before. You the first guy that needs one.
but yeah..i'll keep u guys posted on waht i do

 

I had this problem before..after i changed to the ACT clutch..the slave started squirting fluid on that same spot. I replaced the cylinder at 35k miles now al 50k the new one poped the same seal..I'm planning on re-sealing it myself to see if it works again..

 

Hm.. interesting, I replaced my slave cylinder when i switched over to a stage 1 Works clutch setup. I've had problems going into gear and occasionally at high speed downshifts it locks out a gear so I can't get in until I slow down. I have cleaned the area around my master cylinder and it hasn't been wet/dirty lately so I'm guessing its something else. Also my throw out bearing might be going again.. that or something is ticking under there that goes away when i put pressure on teh clutch pedal. (though this is a known problem with the RA on both stock and aftermarket clutch)

 

do you have the SS clutch line or slave mod delete done? are you rev matching when down shifting? also, it will lock you out if you are significantly beyond the speed capable in that gear

going into gear is just one of those things inherent in this tranny, but I've not had an issue since I have the motor mounts, both sets of shifter bushings, modulator delete, and clutch block. that's a pretty solid connection, you can literally feel what you are doing nothing "moves", so even during moderate cornering it shifts smoothly. I'll encounter some resistance every now and again coming out of a hard corner having to shift, but I think the proper suspension would alleviate most of that as well.