I need a know how video or something to help with my water pump replacement.. no such videos exist for this car that I can find.. 2004 mits lancer ralliart 2.4l

 

you need the service manual...you need to remove the timing belt to get at the water pump...is your timing belt due?

 

The water pump is for sure out... Ive looked for manuals on this car and cant find any.. See thats why I need help lol I didnt know the timing belt had to come off too.. might be biting off more than I can chew but we'll see.. I have to do it.. I dont have the money to take to mechanic

 

pm me your email address

 

So Ive made it a little farther.. timing belt cover top and bottom.. motor mount is off.. water pump pulley and a couple bolts off the water pump. now it looks like to get the pump off I need to take the timing belt off because part of the pump is behind the timing belt stuff.. ...SMH.... do you know if thats true or not? the manual doesnt go into detail.. Thanks a lot btw for that email.. That will be tons of help.. I so dont know what im doing but Im trying.. oh put a screw driver in the tentioner too to keep the tention hope thats ok

 

the accessory/serpentine tensioner? you could use an allen key or a stick if it'll work...


make sure you mark the direction of the timing belt with a wax pencil or something, it'll be easier if you take it off when all the timing marks are aligned...also look for oil and coolant leaks under there.

 

So barrings went out of the water pump and the fan that inside put a whole in the side of the water pump.. replaced pump and timing belt...... No compression on the pistons.. (if I'm saying that right) Engine turns over but freely... New engine?? Im so upset right now errrrrrrr.. I doubt it but Im hopen its just a head gasket but its more than likely a crack in the block. alot of the water was in the #1 cylinder.. Took spark plug off to look and turned moter and water spit out

 

is compression zero psi? did you verify timing before attempting to start it? the starter motor is strong enough to bend valves, after timing you should crank the motor by hand 5 or 6 times to ensure the motor turns freely.

was the motor even running before replacing the pump and belt?

 

yeah I cranked it 6 times before trying to start in and nothing just free as can be.. Had my cousin whos a mech come take it apart and look at it. lol He suggested buying a new used motor because it would take less money to just replace it.. I have pics of the scorned cylinder walls and the water pump that has a hole in it.. I got a engine tho.. 31k miles for 1050 and 6mth warranty..

 

i'd replace the water pump, timing belt, pulleys, piston rings and rod bearings while you're at it so you dont have to worry about it later down the road. you can replace the head studs and main bolts if you wish with ARP ones just so you know everything is on there good and tight lol

 

so was the car running before?

 

I tried to turn it over when we got it towed home and it was the same sound and feel befor and after... When we tried the leakdown test water came out my exhaust which means the exhaust side of the head was cracked.. and when we took the head off moister or something happened to cause the cylinder walls to scorch.. feels like rubbing the side of a file.. thats how bad they were..

 

i'm confused, you posted about replacing the water pump because it was seized, but you did not mention the motor was not running...

 

to my knowledge, it was running til the wife drove it into the ground due to overheating or something cause the waterpump seized. after this i can only assume is what caused the head to crack and the scoring of the cylinder?

 

ok, after your synopsis, I re-read it, and it think you're right...OP says he's got a motor, so it should be uphill from here...