bogging problem
Sweet, glad to hear it, cant wait to see how the car turns out!
btw, marko (reboot) might be coming to kelowna this weekend with the evo, it'd be a good way to break that clutch in and have a little fun along the way.
btw, marko (reboot) might be coming to kelowna this weekend with the evo, it'd be a good way to break that clutch in and have a little fun along the way.
Well we got the second box today installed it and it didn't fix anything it happens still.
Now it might be the piggybacks map that is causing it...
If it isn't fixed by saturday I'll be pulling the kit off because I have to have my daily driver back....
Anyone want to buy a RRM turbo kit ? lol
Now it might be the piggybacks map that is causing it...
If it isn't fixed by saturday I'll be pulling the kit off because I have to have my daily driver back....
Anyone want to buy a RRM turbo kit ? lol
Last edited by AdamRA; Mar 12, 2008 at 06:03 PM.
Why would you do that? Sounds like a brash decision...
If the car is only failing in boost then stay out of boost until you get it figured out. If you don't know what's doing on then call RRM directly. They will talk you thru it for sure. Also, be patient. Sometimes it's something so simple and others it's more involved. It will get figured out in time if you take the time.
Frustration happens... just be easy on the car and stay in the loop. If you let a tuner/mechanic be your eyes and ears you can get even more frustrating. Get involved a little bit and I assure you that you'll be more at ease with what's going on.
If only one thing I've said sinks in it's... CALL RRM when there's trouble. They are there to help and offer support.
If the car is only failing in boost then stay out of boost until you get it figured out. If you don't know what's doing on then call RRM directly. They will talk you thru it for sure. Also, be patient. Sometimes it's something so simple and others it's more involved. It will get figured out in time if you take the time.
Frustration happens... just be easy on the car and stay in the loop. If you let a tuner/mechanic be your eyes and ears you can get even more frustrating. Get involved a little bit and I assure you that you'll be more at ease with what's going on.
If only one thing I've said sinks in it's... CALL RRM when there's trouble. They are there to help and offer support.
How long should I wait two years ? Like Rallilanc and randomly replace parts.
I'm waiting for RRM to get the new MAP will try that.... I think after that Boe we have tried everything we can think of. Unless you can think of something else? I'm taking all suggestions. BTW have been dealing with RRM since day 1 of the CEL I've never given and answer that it is fixable.
I'm waiting for RRM to get the new MAP will try that.... I think after that Boe we have tried everything we can think of. Unless you can think of something else? I'm taking all suggestions. BTW have been dealing with RRM since day 1 of the CEL I've never given and answer that it is fixable.
Last edited by AdamRA; Mar 12, 2008 at 09:06 PM.
RRM obviously doesn't know what the problem is. It's pretty likely since it hasn't happened to but two of you that they haven't seen it to diagnose and fix. It's a ****ton harder to fix something over the phone or through email than it is in person.
what kind of data logging is your mechanic capable of? at this point, you should have all kinds of wires running everywhere to see what is causing this. any and all data that you can gather needs to be analyzed. your ECU is obviously what's cutting fuel, (if that's what's happening) but what is setting the ECU off? the only thing you have is a code, right?
IIRC you have the tactrix cable? do you have NA logs you can compare to your new turbo logs? realistically speaking there are very few sensors that can cause a too much air code, such as the MAF and MAP. what sensor was the signal clamp supposed to be for?
also, have you tried lowering the boost a little (need to buy a small yellow spring, should bring you to ~4psi) to see if you can run wide open with less air flow?
what kind of data logging is your mechanic capable of? at this point, you should have all kinds of wires running everywhere to see what is causing this. any and all data that you can gather needs to be analyzed. your ECU is obviously what's cutting fuel, (if that's what's happening) but what is setting the ECU off? the only thing you have is a code, right?
IIRC you have the tactrix cable? do you have NA logs you can compare to your new turbo logs? realistically speaking there are very few sensors that can cause a too much air code, such as the MAF and MAP. what sensor was the signal clamp supposed to be for?
also, have you tried lowering the boost a little (need to buy a small yellow spring, should bring you to ~4psi) to see if you can run wide open with less air flow?
Adam,
Does your car ever overcome the bogging? ie can you drive past it?
Does it drive normal out of boost?
Do you get a chance to have it act properly once the code is cleared if you stay out of boost?
I'm thinking the piggy itself is designed to clamp the MAF signal then provide additional fuelling from that point based on throttle and rpm referencing it's internal maps. The piggy can either fail to clamp the load (as it seems you've tried to solve) or it's interfering with the MAF signal before the ECU figures it should (maps don't match output).
My finger is pointing at the piggy.
Does your car ever overcome the bogging? ie can you drive past it?
Does it drive normal out of boost?
Do you get a chance to have it act properly once the code is cleared if you stay out of boost?
I'm thinking the piggy itself is designed to clamp the MAF signal then provide additional fuelling from that point based on throttle and rpm referencing it's internal maps. The piggy can either fail to clamp the load (as it seems you've tried to solve) or it's interfering with the MAF signal before the ECU figures it should (maps don't match output).
My finger is pointing at the piggy.
I don't have bogging at all. It drives fine out of boost. Clear the code and reset from the battery does nothing it will come back on everytime it sees boost for more than 1.5 seconds as stated in the DTC P2173 out of the mitsu manual.
I don't think it is the MAF because it would throw a diff code.
This code is related to Throttle Actuator Control System- High Airflow Detected.... there is no information online to fix it at all ....
I don't think it is the MAF because it would throw a diff code.
This code is related to Throttle Actuator Control System- High Airflow Detected.... there is no information online to fix it at all ....
Last edited by AdamRA; Mar 13, 2008 at 06:38 PM.



