i bought a turbo late in the summer from rrm,,put it in,,went to the track,,,ran 14 sec 1/4,,,not very good,,i found out later i was having problems,,a slight sputter when i floored the pedal,,hence the slow runs,,,now that it got really cold up here in fort mac the sputtering turned into backfiring and severe bogging if i floor the pedal,,,im not racing around just tryin to fix the problem,,,,,,,,,i even replaced my intake manifold gasket as i had the port n polished one so i figured maybe there was a leak there,,,i siliconed all the turbo fittings so they are air tight,,im readding the right amount of boost,,air fuel is 14,7 at idle,,i have a wideband but no clue what all the numbers mean,,,,haha,,,im learning,,,,but i really need to get this fixed,,,,and im very discouraged now,,,i was told many times its a boost leak causing the bogging but i dont think so,,,my plugs are also dark at the tips if that helps,,,

IT ONLY BOGS WHEN I PUT THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR,,,IF I EASE INTO THE THROTTLE IT PULLS NORMAL,,,

any advice or help would be greatly apreciated,,im so frustrated and sick of tearin my car apart for leaks that i dont think are there...

you guys are great,,


ryan

 

so even when are cruising along you can ease into WOT and go to the redline with no bogging, but when you floor it right off the bat and try to go to redline it bogs? 14.7 at idle is normal, that's the stoich ratio the ECU is looking to achieve in closed loop.

have you done a boost leak test? if the question I asked above is yes then I don't think it's a boost leak though, but the boost leak test will tell you for sure
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

you have to get a little further into this with your research or you are going to need a shops help. do you have a way to datalog (either from the RRM piggy or with the tactrix cable through the obdii port) a few runs to post up? you will need the r4 software to log from the piggyback, or www.tactrix.com for the obdii cable. you also need a way to log from your wideband o2 sensor.

I can't think of anything off the top of my head, but all my turbo knowledge comes from reading have you tried any other forums where NA cars are converted to turbo for people with similar issues?

also, please use less ,,,,,, it makes it painful to read what you are typing

 

You should set-up an appointment with Martin at AFI Performance in Edmonton. He has seen and tunned two of the RRM turbos here in the city and he also builds custom turbo set-ups, from DD to track cars. He would be the best guy to talk too. Not to helpful but with out seeing the car in person and watching you’re a/f ratios at different boost and rpm levels hard to guess at the problem. One other thing you may try is to video tape yourself on some test runs. Make sure the camera is in a position to see all your gauges, Speedo/rpms, wideband, boost gauge and post it here.

Could be a simple problem, like the one I recently uncovered. I had my CEL showing up recently, I have the CEL elminator installed and never had the CEL come on since I got it. I looked all connections with a fine tooth comb and no luck. I was about to take it to my mechanic to pull the code, when while doing routine maintanence I noticed that the intake Airfilter on the intake pipe had the middle metal cap missing. It must have fallen off recently. I took apart the intake pipe, checked the MAF, to ensure the metal cap fell off into the engine bay and not into the intake tube. I replaced the intake airfilter with a new AEM I had laying around in the garage and presto, the CEL went away after about 50 kms. Note I never noticed a change in the cars performance, I just thought, after checking everything, that the CEL eliminator wasn't working for me. It seems that the cap falling off just allowed more air in and threw off the MAF readings enought to throw a code.

 

i've been having that problem for so long now, and no one knows whats up with it. my car guy told me i didn't have any boost leaks, so i don't think that is the problem with yours. i changed my plugs out too and that was not the problem either. it also definitly happens more often when it is cold out too, and not only does my car bog but also sends me into limp mode some what frequintly. i may be getting a new throttle body put in sometime in the next few weeks to see if that cures anything. i have had the turbo in for almost two years now and most of it has been trying to figure out this problem which seems to come and go when it pleases. also have you checked what kind of codes your car is throwing with the check engine light on?? and if so are you getting one for too much air??

 

log ur a/f maybe you are running rich , you can prob ask the evo guys they should b able to help a lot more...

 

what are you using for fuel management? rrm's piggy, safc, openecu?

are you throwing any check engine light codes? could just be a bad coil boot.

I have had the same type of problem on my turbo'd oz and actually just got things fixed on that.
Pulled the codes at the local Autozone and they said I was getting a cylinder 2 misfire (hence the bogging at WOT).
So started up the car and pulled some of the wires from the coil packs and there was definitely good spark there, so couldn't have been the coil packs.
Next pulled off the coil pack and pulled out the spark plug (turned off the engine and unhooked the battery first)... little dark on the tip from the burnt fuel, but definitely not fouled. So, I put it back in there.
Since the coil pack was putting out the spark and the plug was not fouled, I figured it had to be the coil boot that connected to the pack.
Replaced the boot and it's been running like a champ!

Not saying this is the for sure solution to your problem, but it is something that you can easily check at home before taking it to the master mechanics... might even save you a few bucks

 

thats funny you say that, actually when i removed the fuel rail i noticed the 3rd injector was dry,,im using rrm piggy, and the zeitronix afr, hopefully a tuner can help me out. i siliconed all the boosted connections so theres no way theres a leak. and im not getting any CEL's none,,,which is strange ,you would think soemthing would be bugging the computer.

 

Do you know if your O2's are cycling properly?

 

haha sorry im no expert,,,i wouldnt knwo if the o2's were cycling properly,,,i havent even hooked the system up to my laptop , im going to get my car tuned and hopefully i learn a thing or two while im there.

sorry guys im sure its not fun tryin to lead the blind.. im still learning eveyday. Im just good with tools and my hands, i can figure most things out but do not know all the ins and outs to a turbo, maybe someone could do up a post to help all the new turbo guys out who are in the same boat as me, some do's and donts, what to know , the important stuff.

 

there is plenty information around if you look hard enough, and don't be afraid of the evo sections either. you may have to sift through a lot of BS over there because of the number of users but occasionally you will encounter a gem or two

 

from what ur saying, test ur fuel pump and make sure its hooked up tight and make sure its working right....i dont know about ra turbos, but also check the FMU if you have that, all the boost lines, and fuel lines.....it sounds like you are running really lean at WOT....so stop doing it till you figure out whats goin on......also make sure you look at the wastegate and see if everything works ther....since you dont know much about turbos i would recommend taking the car to a shop and have them look it over....i had an 03 rrm turbo'd car, thats how i know.

 

yea im going to check the plugs again and the injectors to see if all is firing, i will check the fuel pump again, and if all else fails im taking it to a tuner in january to hopefully learn a thing or two and solve any remaining issues

 

Not to single you out lancerguy, but if its bogging at WOT then its not a lean issue, given we really only have a vauge picture of the problem. You put the RRM kit in right? it sounds to me like your injectors might be where the problem is, you have a GREAT tool for troubleshooting, the wideband is your best friend. I dont know if the RRM kit comes with new injectors, but if it does then put a boost controller on the system, keep it at 3 to 5 psi, put the stock injectors back in, and see if your problem is still there. The stock injectors are good for at least 8psi (For testing only) so they will be running at about 95%. I had a similar problem when i went to larger injectors with incorrect (Factory) mapping. Its worth a shot. Keep an eye on your A/F when it happens, is it rich or lean? did you calibrate your wideband and is the reading feeding a sensor input on your fuel managment? that could be another ave to go down.

 

Is it tuned? Thats where I would start since it's only at WOT.. could also be the throttle sensor but it would have probably thrown codes.

 

The kit utilizes stock injectors, plus a larger fifth injector.