custom or RRM??
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custom or RRM??
ive done some research...not done, still searching...but i wanted to know overall which would be a cheaper way to go? and i know it also greatly depends on the quailty you decide to buy but im really just looking for a decent turbo setup, i dont need an extensive amount of power, im not going to be racing it at the track, i just want to have a setup that will be safe for my daily driver that ill have for the next few years.
im thinking that the custom would probably be cheaper...and if soo what type/kind of turbo should i consider buying along with all the needed components? ive searched but couldnt find exactly what if required, like a list would be great...thanks
im thinking that the custom would probably be cheaper...and if soo what type/kind of turbo should i consider buying along with all the needed components? ive searched but couldnt find exactly what if required, like a list would be great...thanks
#2
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Custom is cheaper if you know what you are doing and tune yourself.. You need extensive knowledge on turbo chargers to have a safe turbo setup. RRM is a very reliable source and will back their product. I would suggest them considering they have tested it and have a piggy with the maps already there. Plus all of the hardware is there and ready for install. Really no modification needed except for some trimming and things like that for the IC pipes. That is my opinion. Good luck...
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thanks...good to be back . well the only reason i was considering the custom setup was because i just cant see myself honestly spending 4.5k on a turbo kit for this car...and i know that is a reasonable price but for that i could sell my car for just enough to break even and use that 4.5k on a down payment for a brand new car you know? i also dont have any tuning knowledge soo i was wondering basically if it would be cheaper to buy the turbo, front mount, bov, and piping on my own, and buy say the RRM piggyback and installed it myself but have it tuned........did i miss anything thatd be required?
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covered a million times but here it is agen
manifold, turbo, exhuast, intake pipes/ic pipes, larger fuel injectors(or rrm 5th method), piggy back for tuning, TUNE on a dyno, bov, wastegate
other things should be bought: something to monitor AFR, boost, temps etc (ie something like ZT2 from RRm) and boost guage
thats really the basics, if u want a cheap kit, see dan or someone else was selling one aswell(forgot the name) look in the lancer forsale section
manifold, turbo, exhuast, intake pipes/ic pipes, larger fuel injectors(or rrm 5th method), piggy back for tuning, TUNE on a dyno, bov, wastegate
other things should be bought: something to monitor AFR, boost, temps etc (ie something like ZT2 from RRm) and boost guage
thats really the basics, if u want a cheap kit, see dan or someone else was selling one aswell(forgot the name) look in the lancer forsale section
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#8
I've been tuning for close to a decade. It is possible to tune without a wideband but it requires a lot of experience with an engine and a lot of experience tuning. As ralli04 says realistically you can't tune without a wideband. Fortunately they've come way down in price. When I first started tuning the cheapest WBO2 out there was over $1200. These days you can pick them up for the $200 to $400 range.
For the turbo kit the term "cheaper" depends on your point of view. You can get a cheap kit that doesn't last very long, the manifold cracks, the turbo is a cheap chinese made unit and it lasts a few weeks. If you're getting a shop to install it then your cheaper just became way more expensive as you keep paying to have things patched up. In the long run these kits tend to be more expensive.
If you get a properly engineered and well designed kit it will cost you more than $4500 but will generally be one of those install and use type kits. A good quality one uses a cast or heavy stainless welded tubular manifold that's not going to crack or rust. The charge piping is best made from aluminum but stainless works OK as well (a little heavier and more likely to rattle). The turbo should be a brand name US, European or Japanese made - preferably with a warrantee.
Finallly, ask around and see what others who've bought a particular kit experienced. Are they having trouble making the advertised horsepower numbers? Are they getting CEL issues? Has the manifold cracked? Was it hard to install? There is lots of homework for you to do. I find in general a complete quality turbo kit usually costs about $5500-$6000.
For the turbo kit the term "cheaper" depends on your point of view. You can get a cheap kit that doesn't last very long, the manifold cracks, the turbo is a cheap chinese made unit and it lasts a few weeks. If you're getting a shop to install it then your cheaper just became way more expensive as you keep paying to have things patched up. In the long run these kits tend to be more expensive.
If you get a properly engineered and well designed kit it will cost you more than $4500 but will generally be one of those install and use type kits. A good quality one uses a cast or heavy stainless welded tubular manifold that's not going to crack or rust. The charge piping is best made from aluminum but stainless works OK as well (a little heavier and more likely to rattle). The turbo should be a brand name US, European or Japanese made - preferably with a warrantee.
Finallly, ask around and see what others who've bought a particular kit experienced. Are they having trouble making the advertised horsepower numbers? Are they getting CEL issues? Has the manifold cracked? Was it hard to install? There is lots of homework for you to do. I find in general a complete quality turbo kit usually costs about $5500-$6000.
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narrowband is useless. and yeah, check out the link in my sig. I have gone and gotten everything together this weekend and am getting ready to add a large selection of pics to illustrate to everyone how complete my kit is. there is still some fabrication involved, but you have all bolts, gaskets, hoses... everything you need I have. RRM's turbo piggy will have a base map that will be a very good starting point to tune my kit.
also, RRM's kit is 100% complete. you will need some bolt or liquid gasket, so don't expect to get out of it with no extra cost, but the base kit is ~4300.
also, RRM's kit is 100% complete. you will need some bolt or liquid gasket, so don't expect to get out of it with no extra cost, but the base kit is ~4300.
Last edited by DangerousDan; Jan 6, 2008 at 11:04 AM.
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It all depends on what kinda parts you want and if you have someone to do it. Or even better, do it yourself. It can definitely be cheaper, but keep in mind that you want a reliable kit also. Your kit is only as good as the parts in it. That being said, if you decide to go custom, my friend and I will be making manifolds for those interested. Without the ceramic coating, cause it costs too much. With T3 inlet flange and 38mm tial wastegate flange, unless otherwise specified. Here's the link if you haven't seen it yet.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=315114
My email is:
3declipse@rogers.com
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=315114
My email is:
3declipse@rogers.com
#13
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narrowband is useless. and yeah, check out the link in my sig. I have gone and gotten everything together this weekend and am getting ready to add a large selection of pics to illustrate to everyone how complete my kit is. there is still some fabrication involved, but you have all bolts, gaskets, hoses... everything you need I have. RRM's turbo piggy will have a base map that will be a very good starting point to tune my kit.
also, RRM's kit is 100% complete. you will need some bolt or liquid gasket, so don't expect to get out of it with no extra cost, but the base kit is ~4300.
also, RRM's kit is 100% complete. you will need some bolt or liquid gasket, so don't expect to get out of it with no extra cost, but the base kit is ~4300.
i know there are a lot of the guys over in PR that went with custom setups. ill check them out and ask them how they felt about going custom.