ralliartN20

So i went to the track last night to try out my wet system and I have it set to a window switch to lock out 1st gear, came off the line good, 2.4 60ft and when i hit second and the nitrous hit the car just bog'd down lost all power, no odd noises no backfire nothing just lost all power like fuel was cut off or spark, i let off the throttle and the car picked back up but soon as i put it back to the floor(WOT switch for the nitrous) she would bog down again. Im thinkin maybe it was to lean and the ECU shut her down, maybe my spark plugs was the problem, my 1 step colder 350z plugs wont be in till 2 moro, so i ran the stock plugs and didnt gap them any tighter so that could have been the problem too. Any ideas?

Yimke

Usually if you go lean on NO it goes It might be a misfire with the plugs. I would try those new ones. It possibly could be a fuel cut when you go WOT due to improper mapping also

ralliartN20

hope its not cuz i wont be able to change the mapping until i can get a RRM piggyback, i know theres RA guys runnin nitrous with no tune so i know it possible just gotta figure out what happened here on my end. Im really starting to think its the plugs.

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

the plugs are too hot for spray, 50 should be ok but I changed mine out at the begining at a very light 35 shot , now I have thrown upwards of 100 shots wet...make sure all of the wireing is good and fuses etc....good luck

SSP-Ralliart

iTrader: (1)

You could of "quenched" the cylinders.......putting in too much fuel/additive and ended up lower the compression temp inside of the cylinder and extinguished the flame.......It is prossible considering it doesn't do it until WOT which is where most the fuel gets dumped into the cylinders....Did you check to see if the plugs were wet/fouled? Also the car would still go with a lean misfire.....you will just have excessive 0xygen but will still partially ignite......too rich and it won't ignite anything making it seem dead......Just puting in my 2 cents. Hope it helps you narrow it down.....

ralliartN20

awesome bit of info man, I think your right, becuase thats exactly how it acted, I was runnin a slightly bigger fuel jet as it was, so im thinking of lowering the fuel jet some and tryin it again. i was running 104 octane if that matter. So i guess ill try running a slightly smaller fuel jet.

SSP-Ralliart

iTrader: (1)

ok to clear this up the octane rating doesn't really do much other then prolong knocking.......which means you can go alot more advance in timing then 91 for say.....that isn't your problem.....you just have too much fuel entering your combustion chamber.....i would run it on a scan tool or even at a tuner stall.....see what you O2's are reading, your LTFT/STFT %, and your injector pulse width.....i wouldn't dought it if you have -% on your fuel trim because of excess fuel......also another good indicator of seeing if you are running rich is check your spark plugs.....if they are black/wet.....then you are running excessively rich.....hope this helps....

-Steve Owner of S.S.Performance

PR_Mivec

iTrader: (7)

^+1
check the plugs

amg_dragon

iTrader: (1)

Any updates? A quick question as well: Is this UNleaded 104? Most race gas is leaded and will choke up your cat (if its there that is) which may affect what your 2nd O2 sensor is reading and sending back to your ecu. You can also double, triple check your connections on the WOT switch and make sure there's no short or blockage messing with your TPS. Can't guarantee I'll be a 'normal' member again but I try and throw my .02 in on N2O problems.

Still bows to PR and all the RA guru's they harbor

SSP-Ralliart

iTrader: (1)

the second O2 really isn't what makes the changes to the ECU.... its the first one....if you use leaded fuel it will collect/weld onto the O2s and cause a faulty reading.....the 2nd is just a cat efficiency.

amg_dragon

iTrader: (1)

Doh! >.< Senior moment there. Take what I said about the 2nd O2 and switch it to the 1st sensor for A/F readings. My last spray was almost 2 years ago since my RA is my daily driver, and with gas prices on the rise again I've even removed my UD pulley and intake. Not that either one uses more gas, just that it makes conservative driving harder when it revs so much faster and sounds that much nicer on the boil.
But back to the leaded race gas, you'd agree that it can/will cause a false reading on the A/F the ecu will see, correct? The spark plug check would be the easiest if it's way rich of course, as would checking the O2 output. I'm just trying to help figure out WHY it's running rich on N2O from the info he's given. Do you think there's a possibility he's dropping signal strength to the TPS by tapping into it with his WOT sensor? I'm unfamiliar with what type of WOT sensor he's using as in mechanical micro switch or an electric tap. A further diagnostic could be to shut off the bottle and block the fuel coming out of the solenoid side and see if the problem persists.

SSP-Ralliart

iTrader: (1)

Well either it is too rich/too lean.... Checking the plugs can say alot about the cars running condition..... Now if he is running leaded fuel that will ruin the O2 sensors and send a faulty signal to his ECU....that is correct. If he were to loose signal at WOT then the TPS as a whole would shut down and go into limp home mode.....making anywhere on the TP sensors potenionmeter faulty and throw a (MIL). I can't really do anything from here without seeing it for myself....but we can help lead him in the right direction...

SSP-Ralliart

iTrader: (1)

I mean running rich.....forget the lean part....

ralliartN20

been gone for a long time thanks to the military and other things, but i got this problem fixed, was running way rich, little jet tuning and good to go, ran a 14.2 on street tires with a 50 shot from second gear. When i through my 75 shot on though, the nitrous didnt seem to engage as smooth and i ran only like a hundredths of a second faster. Tryin to figure that out now