kayouu

iTrader: (2)

I feel the same way with what i had picked up the option is there why not use it. Just trying to figure where to feed from. Rob from RRM was telling me they dont use it because such low boost on their setup its not needed but it would run more efficient with both . Would you even need to run the coolant threw the throttlebody isnt that their to heat up the air coming in?(new with all of this prob. Wrong) if you bypassed to turbo only. Wouldnt you want air to be its coldest?

kayouu

iTrader: (2)

Also question when you did your gauges which fuse did you solder to? I see where you did the ground. And all three gauges powered by the one spot is fine? Putting the gauge pod that i got with kit in just some cheap glowshifts narrow a/f(for right now), vacuum, and boost.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

vacuum and boost can be on the same gauge, since they are both manifold pressures, there's no point in having two gauges to monitor the same thing...i wouldn't bother with a narrowband...go with the wideband before you even install the pod, if you plan on getting one. it's a pain to rewire...

I run all my gauges, even the AEM wideband from the same source...the memory power constant 12v i used the power locks circuit, and most other circuits are ignition switched sources, but i think i used the cigarette lighter, but i could double check for you, just use the current rating recommended by the manufacturer...


As far as the throttle body goes, i don't think the throttle body having coolant in it is going to increase the intake air temperature enough to worry about even if it does...you could bypass it all together if you want.

kayouu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks i thought it was odd too having the two gauges for boost and vacuum budsy had a greddy one that i was gonna use. I agree with the wideband was figuring just hook power up to it currently to get some color lol makes sense since I would just have to pull it out. Waiting on next fill of funds to get some more stuff. Thanks for the help.

kayouu

iTrader: (2)

Main reason i had left it in was because they were all wired together already i was wondering where the guy was reading vacuum and boost from with the rrm kit having both because my somewhat turbo knowledgeable friend(for 240sx's though) was saying the same thing like you about why have both usually just on the one guage(he gave me the greddy) but like i said gonna be my first turbo application im a noob with the boosting lol. Also was looking around and ill take some pictures, thinking about swapping a piece, i had a q about for feeding water.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

you'll want to get your boost and vacuum readings from the intake manifold...the rest of your post was kind of confusing, sorry

kayouu

iTrader: (2)

HAHA just getting over bieng way way sick so ya Im prob. Talking pretty confusing lol. Im just trying to figure where the guy had these gauges hooked to I know RRM seems to use a few t fittings and such to hook up their setup . I liked how you tapped the extra fitting in , seemed to work out nice. Looks like i should get my other motor and start pulling off the im and tap it like you did.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

you could technically get boost pressure from the charge pipe, but you wouldn't get vacuum...and i think it's more useful if you get boost readings from the intake manifold.

roblaza

iTrader: (22)

I had to search this thread to find the block adapter link for the oil pressure senders... lol I ordered it this morning, and am now in the process of ordering the sender and cable itself for the guage... yay me. Thanks for posting that linky.

Also, to save me some digging, where is the OEM oil pressure sensor located, and when you installed the block adapter, dod you use any type of thread sealant on the threads??

kayouu

iTrader: (2)

Oil pressure sensor is below where the intake connects to IM below shift linkage.

roblaza

iTrader: (22)

10-4. That's where I was assuming it was from the video Crans posted earlier.

I'm also very happy that it's on the driver's side of the engine. The cable wasn't quite long enough last time to go from the oil filter plate to the gauge, and I ended up having to *** about 2' to the length of the cable. Not only that, it was really close to the belts and I didn't particularly like that there was limited places to tie up the cable to. The ice and snow got to it being under the car, and broke the last sensor and cable clip, hence why I have to replace it all. lol

kayouu

iTrader: (2)

Lol yeah it will make life much nicer feeding off of the sensor lots of room.
Ice and snow sucks +1 (except for fun slides)

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

you can use teflon tape, or loc-tite...i use blue locktight cause the red stuff is "permanent"

you could even use liquid gasket...

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Tapered pipe threads must use teflon tape or the paste teflon pipe sealant from a tube, or it will leak. Straight threads should not need anything if you torque it properly, but if you do prefer to use a thread locker like Loctite it can be disassembled later by heating up the fastener, this is how you overcome the red Loctite (heat weakens the Loctite enough so you can unscrew the fastener).

roblaza

iTrader: (22)

Do you have a picture or a breakdown of where exactly the oem unit is?