CrAnSwIcK's 4G69 Build: Phase 2
Oct 1, 2012, 09:15 PM
#332
yeah, i knew i was going to need a backup, so a picked up a couple when the gettin' was good, one came with the big 16g when i bought it, and the other i picked up, i think i paid 30 or 40 bucks for it...now these turbos were still on 1g DSM prior to buying them, so could very well have 200,000km on them, as long as the shaft play is very minimal or non-existent, the turbo still has life, and is likely still in balance, i may or may not be able to rebuild the one that's in the car.
Heck! a friend of mine blew a brand new FP Green the other day, $1,300 and it lasted a few weeks, the compressor contacted the housing quite violently after likely detroying a bearing...**** happens.
Don't be reluctant, just know it's like any other part, but it operates at extremely high temperatures, and moves faster than anything in or on the engine...it's fun, it's powerful, just know what you're getting into, and keep in mind, i drag race and track/autox quite often.
Heck! a friend of mine blew a brand new FP Green the other day, $1,300 and it lasted a few weeks, the compressor contacted the housing quite violently after likely detroying a bearing...**** happens.
Don't be reluctant, just know it's like any other part, but it operates at extremely high temperatures, and moves faster than anything in or on the engine...it's fun, it's powerful, just know what you're getting into, and keep in mind, i drag race and track/autox quite often.
Oct 3, 2012, 09:19 PM
#336
It's like everything else, save some money...from the time i bought a 1g DSM from a friend for $30, (and i think he likely didn't take me seriously) to the time i was experience my first 2nd gear pull with a turbocharged 4G69 was like a year and some...i spent just under 2k when it was all said and done, and it took me a year, that's the beauty of how it came together, it took a fair bit of research, and i took my time with it...by the time i was finished it took me like 8 hours or something to completely install it, a few hours to work out some kinks, and a few hours of fine tuning, hackish made it easy, hard as it is to get a hold of him, what he's doing is exactly what this platform needs, i plan on finding out what it's capable off for myself, i've heard the folklore, but i believe this motor has a lot more potential than people think, and the drivetrain becomes the weakest link.
Oct 12, 2012, 04:18 PM
#337
So, i ran slicks on the 1/4 mile...good idea? or bad idea...14.6 seconds, good idea...broken transmission? again?...bad idea i guess...
Good news is i thought it was the transmission, but it wasn't cause the axle shaft was broken inside what mitsubishi calls the "dynamic damper" so at first look, the axle looked fine, but upon jacking, once the suspension extended fully, the true cause of the failure was revealed as the broken shaft just sorta fell out...weird thing is it looks super corroded, to the point where the diameter of the shaft was reduced...and the CV joint pooped its grease all over the place...
carnage pictures
So, i'm glad i don't have to take the transmission apart again, but at the same time, i'm still down waiting for the new axle to arrive, and i have my doubts about the longetivity of the passenger side
Good news is i thought it was the transmission, but it wasn't cause the axle shaft was broken inside what mitsubishi calls the "dynamic damper" so at first look, the axle looked fine, but upon jacking, once the suspension extended fully, the true cause of the failure was revealed as the broken shaft just sorta fell out...weird thing is it looks super corroded, to the point where the diameter of the shaft was reduced...and the CV joint pooped its grease all over the place...
carnage pictures
So, i'm glad i don't have to take the transmission apart again, but at the same time, i'm still down waiting for the new axle to arrive, and i have my doubts about the longetivity of the passenger side
Oct 13, 2012, 12:10 PM
#339
Ah, the joy of working and not getting ahead for 3 decades, but now being able to afford a corroding 14 year old Subaru winter car. My RA just lives a life of summertime luxury, seeing no salt fog.
Thank you for sharing, Crans. First time I've seen a CV axle bite it like that.
Turbo power + stupid-Canadian-oversalting-for-Pathetic-Seniors-wearing-Tilley-hats-or-blue-hair = Craziness
Thank you for sharing, Crans. First time I've seen a CV axle bite it like that.
Turbo power + stupid-Canadian-oversalting-for-Pathetic-Seniors-wearing-Tilley-hats-or-blue-hair = Craziness
Oct 13, 2012, 02:19 PM
#340
yeah, from the looks of it, the "dynamic damper" is just a salt water trap...similar to how my front stab bar endlinks failed inside the bushing...Nick, my car is too far gone to baby it now, but i sure envy your RA...I hope to someday be in the same boat.
I'm just wiping my brow, that it's not the transmission...so i know for sure our tranny's are good for 220whp on 040 treadwear R compound slicks. Brent is testiment to that at about 250whp. now i'm just waiting for that axle to show up...
George, is the axle being saved? cause a 32oz ball peen should get her out...might mushroom the end, and possibly harm the CV joint though
.
I'm just wiping my brow, that it's not the transmission...so i know for sure our tranny's are good for 220whp on 040 treadwear R compound slicks. Brent is testiment to that at about 250whp. now i'm just waiting for that axle to show up...
George, is the axle being saved? cause a 32oz ball peen should get her out...might mushroom the end, and possibly harm the CV joint though
.
Oct 14, 2012, 08:14 AM
#342
thanks...after some quirky behavior from the car, before and after the transmission overhaul, i'm starting to wonder if the axle wasn't already broken, but in a way that the two halves were sort of like meshing gears, cause i had some unexplained clunks, weird delays in power delivery, and even torque steer, that's why i was blaming the diff, but i'm wondering if it was a broken axle, providing just enough friction so that a "zero load" wasn't "detected" by the diff...the quaife biases torque very well, but when there is "zero load" on either side, it acts like an open diff, but it has to be zero, even a squealing blizzak in the middle of summer is a little bit of friction which will still aloow the diff to BIAS torque...
my goal for this year with a turbo charged motor was to shave a complete second off my best 1/4 ET, and trap 100mph...i was 3/10's away from, and 2mph shy of acheiving that goal.
Also i took the turbo system apart to inpect the turbo i thought i may have blown, and found an obvious boost leak...My BOV flange screws onto the flange, and an o-ring seals it...well the o-ring is MIA, likely ended up in the catalytic converter, lol...and the BOV flange pushed itself off the threads and cross-threaded itself, so it still felt tight, but was leaking like a sieve, so i just applied some sealant directly to the threads for the time being, if it doesn't hold, i'll have to get it welded...so i'm pretty confident the excess noise/whining from the turbo is just just it normally makes but that you wouldn't normally hear because it's a sealed system, this also contributes i'm sure to my wacky AFR's which i was still able to run 14.7's, but i think i could have improved on the 14.6 had these things not come up...
That's it for this season...I'll have some fun this winter, and next season will be the year of the big 16g, and i'll be upping the boost chasing 13's in the 1/4...
my goal for this year with a turbo charged motor was to shave a complete second off my best 1/4 ET, and trap 100mph...i was 3/10's away from, and 2mph shy of acheiving that goal.
Also i took the turbo system apart to inpect the turbo i thought i may have blown, and found an obvious boost leak...My BOV flange screws onto the flange, and an o-ring seals it...well the o-ring is MIA, likely ended up in the catalytic converter, lol...and the BOV flange pushed itself off the threads and cross-threaded itself, so it still felt tight, but was leaking like a sieve, so i just applied some sealant directly to the threads for the time being, if it doesn't hold, i'll have to get it welded...so i'm pretty confident the excess noise/whining from the turbo is just just it normally makes but that you wouldn't normally hear because it's a sealed system, this also contributes i'm sure to my wacky AFR's which i was still able to run 14.7's, but i think i could have improved on the 14.6 had these things not come up...
That's it for this season...I'll have some fun this winter, and next season will be the year of the big 16g, and i'll be upping the boost chasing 13's in the 1/4...
Oct 14, 2012, 08:53 AM
#343
A 2 lb hammer is my standard technique, then I tried a sledge.
Messed up the axle nut quite well, but the axle didn't care.
I'm trying to change the wheel bearing, so I dont want to damage the axle at all.
If the *&^%$# ABS sensor was not $200 plus I would have already bought an axle and knuckle and said %^&&* it.
Oct 14, 2012, 10:06 AM
#344
lol, yeah...i actually broke one of my ABS sensors but it's still in there...no bolt though...Did you talk to Nick? If he still has access to the shop, they have a really nice press in there...if not i can borrow my Friend Ghislain's press again, if you wanted to make the trip...i have a wheel bearing/timing belt job to do on my ES, but i'm terrified cause it's 3 years older than my RA, and i haven't had to take the front end apart since i've owned it...so it's probably corrosion central, and i fear i'll be making good use of my cobalt drill bit and tap and die set, as well as the three or four varieties of inside and outside extractors i've acquired...
Oct 14, 2012, 05:25 PM
#345
Damn that's crazy... On another note I was watching YouTube videos vtech vs mivec and I saw your comment on it thought it was funny all the videos where a Honda lost the race it's like 50% thumbs down.. Back on topic I do have the manifold up for grabs if you want dibs