Dirtyralli's turbo build
Jun 8, 2016, 12:49 AM
#16
GT28 should be ok, too much bigger and it won't be as fun to drive stop sign to stop sign, if you know what I mean, I sent you a huge PM...for the manifold...I would look at getting something as close as possible to the RPW manifold...kind of a log/mini-ramhorn hybrid...keeps the turbo nice and high for a good oil scavenge like a log, but has more efficient flow. Josh is right about the size...it is tight...I still run a stock rad, with stock fans, and good luck reaching your hand down there...when we finally meet, you'll see what I mean...there are turbo options out there that have bigger compressor wheels in smaller housings...like my 20g is in a big 16g housing...I would also go with a turbo that could accommodate an external wastegate, with the charge outlet facing downward, regardless of whether you think you're going internal or external, give yourself the option...again, when you see my setup in person, you'll be like, "WTF?" It's really annoying to work on. changing the starter means taking almost the entire turbo kit out...and the middle exhaust nut is almost impossible to get at, so I leave it off.
I should have kept my blown-up block, I have a mig welder now, so I could have mocked up some manifold designs...I have the head, and a spare transmission case I could have used for starter and clutch slave clearance.
I should have kept my blown-up block, I have a mig welder now, so I could have mocked up some manifold designs...I have the head, and a spare transmission case I could have used for starter and clutch slave clearance.
Jun 8, 2016, 03:46 AM
#17
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GT28 should be ok, too much bigger and it won't be as fun to drive stop sign to stop sign, if you know what I mean, I sent you a huge PM...for the manifold...I would look at getting something as close as possible to the RPW manifold...kind of a log/mini-ramhorn hybrid...keeps the turbo nice and high for a good oil scavenge like a log, but has more efficient flow. Josh is right about the size...it is tight...I still run a stock rad, with stock fans, and good luck reaching your hand down there...when we finally meet, you'll see what I mean...there are turbo options out there that have bigger compressor wheels in smaller housings...like my 20g is in a big 16g housing...I would also go with a turbo that could accommodate an external wastegate, with the charge outlet facing downward, regardless of whether you think you're going internal or external, give yourself the option...again, when you see my setup in person, you'll be like, "WTF?" It's really annoying to work on. changing the starter means taking almost the entire turbo kit out...and the middle exhaust nut is almost impossible to get at, so I leave it off.
I should have kept my blown-up block, I have a mig welder now, so I could have mocked up some manifold designs...I have the head, and a spare transmission case I could have used for starter and clutch slave clearance.
I should have kept my blown-up block, I have a mig welder now, so I could have mocked up some manifold designs...I have the head, and a spare transmission case I could have used for starter and clutch slave clearance.
Jun 8, 2016, 07:44 AM
#18
Yeah i dont think ill go any bigger than a gt28, and that turbo is internally wastegated that was the only downfall because it is an oem replacement for a r34. Yeah we dont have much room in there and like josh said i might have to go with a half rad because i do have an aftermarket rad right now. You could have fabbed up manifolds for everybody for cheaper lol!
Jun 9, 2016, 08:06 AM
#19
I dont really have any specific turbos in mind for you. But I will say this: Be careful about what you go with. There is a lot less room than you think for placement if your going with the standard location. In all seriousness on the RA platform if your wanting a properly sized turbo I would go with a halfsize radiator, or at the very least get a pusher fan setup from an Evo and ditch the passenger side fan on the back of the radiator. You have an aftermarket rad too if I remember correctly. So your going to have even less space to work with.
Last edited by mnunez2; Jun 9, 2016 at 08:12 AM.
Jun 9, 2016, 08:31 AM
#20
Yea they work fine. Lots of Evo guys run them. I ran one in a 3g eclipse. I have another one I am putting into a mirage someday. They work because they are nearly twice as thick as the RA or Evo's stock radiator. Just make sure you use a good fan and you should have nothing to worry about.
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mnunez2 (Jun 9, 2016)
Jun 9, 2016, 09:50 AM
#21
Yea they work fine. Lots of Evo guys run them. I ran one in a 3g eclipse. I have another one I am putting into a mirage someday. They work because they are nearly twice as thick as the RA or Evo's stock radiator. Just make sure you use a good fan and you should have nothing to worry about.
I really don't have clear the function of that fan (of the A/C)... if it cooled the water on the radiator or cooled the A/C compressor... obviously the water on the radiator is cooler with that fan but the compressor don't need it?
Jun 9, 2016, 10:47 AM
#22
Most Evo guys either get rid of the AC or switch to a civic condenser if they want to keep it. If your keeping the stock condenser I would get a slim fan and wire it up to the stock connector for that fan. Or, the stock fans split in two down the middle IIRC. Maybe there would be a way to attack the stock fan to the condenser.
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mnunez2 (Jun 9, 2016)
Jun 10, 2016, 06:29 AM
#24
worst part about removing the AC is if you break off one of the bolts holding the compressor on. I did that on my eclipse once.
You can get a shorter belt (cant remember the size) and remove the entire pulley from the loop. Remove the high and low pressure lines from the compressor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it to it's bracket and drop off the compressor. You'll have to remove the radiator to get the condenser out. Then I think there is one bolt that connects the high and low pressure lines to the firewall behind the engine. Once the lines are gone you can find block off plates online to cover the holes in the firewall if you want, or just fab something up.
You can get a shorter belt (cant remember the size) and remove the entire pulley from the loop. Remove the high and low pressure lines from the compressor. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it to it's bracket and drop off the compressor. You'll have to remove the radiator to get the condenser out. Then I think there is one bolt that connects the high and low pressure lines to the firewall behind the engine. Once the lines are gone you can find block off plates online to cover the holes in the firewall if you want, or just fab something up.
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