This mod should actually make you clutch last longer as the clutch engagement is smoother and more consistant. I highly reccommend this upgrade....but you do have to sorta relearn how to engage and shift somewhat.

 

which line is this replacing? i replaced the under-hood bushings. is it the line going from the bushings to the part that goes throug the firewall? or from the bushings to the tranny box? this is my first manual, too. ive gotten very used to it, but dont know jack about the 'how it works' part, when it comes to changing stuff =)

 

this car has a hydraulic clutch. This line bypasses the normal system to make the clutch engadge smoother. You are thinking of the linkage to the gear shifter. That is something different.

 

Can someone post pictures along with the how-to for this. I just got my new RRM clutch line in the mail yesterday and I have no clue how to install it.

Also, my car is currently at the dealership getting worked on. Would they install it for me? Problem with that is I have no clue about this thing and if they try to ask me where it's supposed to go I wouldn't have an answer for them.

 

ok, first thing is to take off your ari intake box, this frees up alot of room to work with. Then, locate the brake fluid resevoir. close to the firewall on the driver side. Then you will be able to locate the banjo bold on the master clutch cylinder on the firewall. The banjo bolt is connected to a rubber hose that starts to go down towards the tranny. The rubber hose will end and there will be a bent hard line connected to a 10mm flange nut. Follow this hard line and it will end up to the far driver side of the tranny and its connected to a 10mm nut to the top of the RESTRICTOR(tall cylinder type object, 3 inches long standing up), The restrictor is held on by two 12mm bolts, take them off as you will get rid of the restrictor. On the bottom of the restrictor you will find an other 10mm flange nut connected to a second hard line that leads to the Salve clutch cylinder located on the middle of the tranny held on by a 10mm flange nut(this is a blue painted part with a bleed valve and rubber cap) Now, you will basically have to remove the hard line from the 1st 10mm nut attached to the rubber hose, remove the second 10mm nut attached to the slave cylinder, remove both 12mm bolts on the restrictor and then attach the NEW RRM SS CLUTCH line to the slave cylinder and the rubber hose that leads up to the fire wall. At this point you should have removed the old hard line and restrictor making sure that the brake fluid has not touched any paint on the car, and reattached the RRM line to the salve and rubber hose. Now its time to bleed the clutch. As sillypuddy said...make sure the reservoir is FULL and bleed the clutch. do a search for bleeding a clutch on evom and you'll find the exact way.

thats about it. PM me if any questions.

 

you don't have to take the restrictor apart.. just take the entire

hardline-restrictor-hardline

combo out in one shot..

-joe

 

great! thanks guys. yea, i was confused before that =)

 

I though I said that...lol, thanks for clearing that up.

 

if i follow your direction, mojambo, i would take the first hard line out, then the restrictor, then the hardline.. it can all come out at the same time

-joe

 

The dealership wants $90 to do the install.

 

save your money....get a friend and a case of beer and some dot 4 synthetic brake fluid and a 4 foot peice of 3/16" hose, read on how to bleed a clutch. VERY simple I promise

 

Well, I just installed the SS Clutch line (I just walked in the door from the test drive) and I would like to say WOW!

The install was as easy as promised, just went to the parts store and picked up some extra brake fluid and a 5 dollar bleeding kit and followed the above directions and in about an hour I was done.

The results are amazing. Spectacular. Perhaps even Amazingtacular. The clutch ALWAYS GRABS AT THE SAME SPOT. Now it feels like....well, like a clutch should. The clutch also grabs when the pedal is closer to the floor which is great.

I did notice the the pedal feels a little 'mushier' as someone above mentioned but both me and my buddy agree that that is normal as you just removed a huge chunk of hard lines and replaced it with a steel cable.

Anyway, to sum up, if you dont have this mod......get it. Its well worth every penny, no joke.

 

wow cool cheap easy mods those are always good

 

I second that a few more good reviews and I'll pick one up

 

mushy pedal might mean you didn't full bleed the system... i would go back and redo your bleeding

mine was as hard, if not harder, than stock

the hardline and the streel braided line should have about the same feel..

-joe