After a few days of driving my clutch feels fine now. The mushiness is gone and it feels great. Bleeding it again would not hurt though.

 

i think i am going to get my mechanic to check it again now that i drove it for a few days..

(check for leaks and air)

-joe

 

I have had the car for about 6 weeks I ordered parts the week after I bought it. I still have a 99 solara that is SC'd with lots of mods. Im not a bad stick driver Im just not that good in reverse. I just got my ss line today and I am thinking about trying to put it on right now but its dark already so I might wait. Ill keep you guys posted on the results. All my friends think I have a probleom because I have already done all this stuff. I really want to get a SC but I am waiting for some more money from the insurance company because my solara got broke in to and then I took the car to folsom toyota and the blew my eninge on a joy ride so I have to pay for a new eninge and then sue the dealership to get the money back then when i sell my solara i will be able to pay off my ralli art and hopefully have enough left over for a SC. I would get a turbo but I dont want any one to know its not stock.

 

well I decided to go out to sac raceway instead and I took all the crap out of my car and the spare tire and of course when I got there it was closed, this is three weeks in a row I swear it only has rained on wednesdays. Oh well I will do the clutch line tomorrow. could someone explain how to get the old fluid out?

 

It took me two days but I got it on. Fist I striped one of the 10mm nuts on the stock clutch line so I had to go to sears and get a tool to get the nut off. Then I had to figure out how to bleed the clutch line. It goes like this you get a clear tube and a clean 20oz bottle, put on the new line then put a 10mm closed end on the nut then put the clear 3/8 inch hose on the nipple. open up the valve and then push the clutch down and hold it. Then tighten the nut and let the clutch up, repeat this process about 10 times then leave the valve open and pump the clutch about 5 to 10 times the whole time keep refilling the fluid. Then go back to open in and closing the valve unitll there are no more air bubles comming out and you will be done. The new line made a huge differece it engages much quicker and way easier I would recomend this to anyone, I dont know why it does not come stock like this.

Nick

 

Money, a rubber hose is a lot more cheaper than a braided steel line.

 

I would think that the hard line and the clutch restrictor or what ever it is would be more expensive than a 12 inch piece of braded steel but I could be wrong.

 

It's simple: the clutch restrictor is in there to keep noob manual drivers from wrecking the transmission that Mitsu has to provide warranty service on for 10 years. That's why it's there.

 

You really have to be careful to make sure that you got a buddy to keep putting fluid into the master cylinder, since it looks like it's full but there is a huge bubble in the bottom, that will flow up when you put fluid in it..

-joe

 

Kondo,

I too have stripped the 10mm nut on the hard line. What kind of tool did you buy from sears to get the nut out. Can you describe it for me? This job seems like a piece of cake until you run into something like that. I'll be looking for your answer.
rallyboy

 

why do you guys strip the nut so easy?

don't force it.. it's a pain in the butt to get out

-joe

 

I was using crappy tools, To get the nut off that I striped I had to cut the hard line and the tool was a 4 piece set thats $20 it says its for rusted or rounded nuts. The outside looks like a wheel lock but the inside is threaded like a drill so you screw it in to the nut and then you can back it out. I still have not figured how the heck you get the nut out of the tool once you are done though.

 

you just pick it out with a flat head screwdriver or poke it

-joe