Does the idiot light come on when it gets that high? I only ask because oil should be able to handle that temp fine...I thought. Or does the light only come on for low level? Mine's never come on but it's never been low (or hot if that's the case). My light in my Impala will come on if the oil gets too hot though. I dont have a temp gauge in it so not sure how hot it's getting.

 

the idiot light comes on when there isn't any oil pressure

the fittings are here.. the hose is not.. damn i hate ordering stuff online

it's true you don't NEED an oil cooler.. just like you don't need to run synthetic oil.. you don't need better tires.. etc..

-joe

 

hose and fitting are all here.. pick up tomorrow.. installing them soon

oil works it's best when it's under or around 210F.. anything over that it will start to break down and lose the effectiveness..

-joe

 

thicker oil is not good in colder climates. I'm cosidering a oil to water heat exchanger as it is more compact than an oil cooler and doesn't require a thermostat. It help to bring oil up to operating temps faster. It is cost more too!

Here are some pics of my gauges and here are some pics of the remote filter with the senders. Soon I'm going to relocate my battery to the trunk and redo the remote filter where tha battery goes with some better quality hose and fittings.

 

so where does the hoses go now?

-joe

 

I'm just going to replace the current NAPA hose and hose clamps with some nicer SS hose and alunimum fittings. These current set up works fine, they just don't look that great. (My budget was kind of destroyed because I had to replace a leaky exhaust on our second car.)

 

so where does the hoses go now?

they just seem to go up somewhere

and good luck with the alunimum fittings.. they are so expensive.. same with the SS lines.. i went with nylon sleeved rubber hose.. you might want to look into that

-joe

 

I mounted the remote filter adapter on the frame just below the battery. This wont work if you have a CAI. If you look under that part of the frame u'll see that there is a lonnie sized hole there that you can use to get a wrench and nuts into the frame rail.

Make a template of the mounting suface of the relocation adapter so that you can drill the holes in the correct location. Even when I did this, one of the holes was off a bit and I had to file it a bit.

Once you can mount the adapter and the bolts into the holes you just made, u'll need to rig up the nuts (and washers) to a closed end wrench. I used electrical tape to hold the nut/washer on the closed end wrench. Then I put the wrench into the lonnie sized hole and lined it up with the bolts that come thru.

It is a pain in the ***, but I managed to do it all by my self. One hand holding the wrench with the taped on nut/washer the other hand turning the bolt to get it to thread together.

The hoses goes over the tranny and the around the back of the engine finally down to where the spin on filter adapter is. You should get some 90 or 120 degree adapter. Or do like I did and just bend the hose. I used two 5 foot sections of hose, it more than enough. Once you got it all hooked together use zip ties to secure the hoses together and to other places in the engine bay.

If you don't get angled fittings for the spin on adapter then make sure you zip tie it up well as the bent hoses will hang down too much. U'll know what I mean.

 

i got 90 degree adapters

-joe