http://www.roadraceengineering.com/p...-resonator.jpg FROM the DIY page...

 

First I'd like to say a big thanks to the guys at RRM, especially Rob, who helped me tremendously even though I got my unit from a private party.

I am not electronically inclined at all. I can work with big stuff, but little things aren't my forte. So, it took me over an hour to do the install. BUT, I did complete it myself, and it is running successfully.

So far I have noticed more response and what seems like more HP and torque. The car is definitely quicker, and faster throughout the powerband. It also seems like I can achieve higher speeds at lower RPMs. Will test that more tomorrow on the freeway. I have been at about 3200 in 5th gear at 70mph. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.

I'm going to run my first 1/4 mile this Friday night; will post results. Then I'll hit the dyno again next week and post results.

Another great product from RRM... and GREAT customer service.

 

... thats still not RRM... i'd take that up with RRE even tho they are affiliated.

 

Sounds good. Although the piggy can't alter your RPMs, engine RPM at certain gears/speeds is caused by your transmission gearing, final drive gearing and tire/rim size. Power/electronic stuff has no bearing on engine RPM in gear (although some plug ins raise the RPM limit).

 

nice, let us know further detail...

btw, weren't you stock, like last week?

 

Also that's a pretty simply resonator... who welded it on for you that crappy. Indeed if you have a problem it's with RRE or more importantly the installer/welded. If that's you then it's your problem no one elses. RRE just supplied you the part. A good mufler shop could have installed it for 50 bucks or less.

You should edit your post to RRE not RRM.

 

ErickT:
Could you give just a little more detail as to what goes into the installation, I really want this, BAD!!! But like you I am not good w/ the electronics...
But I was wondering about the installation & the ease? of it...

 

Arithmetic: "bone stock" is a joke. A buddy of mine has put about 16k into his 5.0 GT, almost all performance, and yet when people ask him what he's got he says "bone stock". And people ALWAYS ask him because it sounds like an old jet boat pulling in. He never opens his hood either.

Alkaline: I bought a bunch of stuff from Home Depot to make sure I had everything I MIGHT need. Soldering iron, solder made especially for electronics, extra connectors, electrical tape, zip ties, tubing for heat shrinking, velcro strips, and one of those wire strippers (yellow handled thing). I already had a tool set with sockets, pliers, etc.

You definitely need the wire stripper thing. It's not that easy to use in the small space you have to work in, but it works. I would HIGHLY recommend getting at least a few extra connectors, for each type of connector. If you break or ruin one on the job, you're screwed unless you have an extra car or live next door to Radio Shack. The zip ties were useful (get thin, kinda short ones.... black) for bundling the wires, and I used the velcro to attach the unit to the side near where the passengers left foot would be.

Soldering isn't necessary. As long as you crimp the connectors down really good, they seem to be pretty solid.

It took me a while to do it, and one call to RRM to make sure I was using the right wire on one of the connections. If I had another one to do today, it would take me half the time.

If you're like me, I'd set aside 2 hours just to make sure you have plenty of time and patience. Make sure you have the recommended tools I mentioned above. Also have a pair of scissors/knife handy. Take the time (BEFORE you go to install) to learn how the connectors work, so you have an idea of what you want to do before you actually start stripping wires.

It's not as complicated as I make it sound, I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible. Like I said, if I could do it, I would expect anyone with a reasonable level of intelligence (or experience) can do it.

 

Gotcha... That's a nice walkthrough... Thanks... I have a buddy who's installed a p/b unit on an 02 lancer before... So it should be easy enough... I just was checking into it in case he's not available when I get it... I'd want this thing on ASAP!!!
Thanks E!

 

So ErikT what about those runs?

 

Well I have a good fabricator. The problem is with the spot weld that it coems with. The resonator should have been completeley welded, it should not be anybody's job to fix what should have been done in the first place.

Check the green circle that is spotwelded in the picture. My fabrictaor simply welded my pipe into this, he shouldn't of had to weld the resonator together, as that should have been done from the factory when the resonator was built. Like I said, you get what you pay for. I am not upset about it, I fixed the problem, it just means you can never expect anything to be perfect. I got a Buschur exhaust once and had to re do some welds because they were more holey than well...I will let you imagine it.

 

Looking at that resonator i believe the pipe is supposed to slip inside of it... you buy the one according to the size piping you're running. Then you weld it in all the way around on that seem. It's spotted in so that it doesn't move while you slip the pipe in but the final weld is made by the installer all the way around on that same seam.

Did you try to just weld to the resonator's outside diameter?? That's not right... i've used these before on various applications. All 3" piping however...

 

Your almost correct. Either way it woudl require two welds all the way around the pipe. You would weld to the metal insert to the pipe and then you would still have to weld the metal insert onto the resonator. It should have been welded in the first place, that si the insert to the resonator.

 

For those that have the RRM piggyback, how easy would it be to go back to stock once installed?

 

Simple... it's only 5 wires... two you'll splice back together and the other 3 will just get cut and taped off. If you're more serious about it you can always heat shrink cap the ends as well.