I got some 3" mandrel bends and went to town with the intake. I made a cold air setup similar to RRM. To make the MAF hole I used a round 1 1/8" drill bit and then used two self tapping screws to hold the MAF on to the pipe. So far the intake is producing very good revs and seems to be working very well with the 2.5" catback exhaust I made for it last month. I also installed a cold air bypass valve to keep things safe. What do you think? Sorry I didn't take pictures of it outside the car. I can if someone really wants me to.

I do have a few questions about others with intake's though:
1. When you come down from cruising does your revs drop down sometimes, almost to the point where the car might die? (I raised the IDLE so its better now)
2. Anywhere above 5500RPM the MIVEC sounds violent and the car really pulls like it never did before?
3. You can hear the intake sucking at 2-3k then it goes away and comes back around 4-redline?
4. On initial cold start when you try to drive the gas pedal is stiff and the car doesn't want to move. I checked for leaks and there doesn't seem to be any around the MAF.

Thanks!

 

nice.. how much did the whole thing cost you?

 

I probably have about $100(or slightly less) into it. That includes the filter and the bypass valve. It took around 4 hours to make.

 

question 3 is the same with me. Dont know about 4 because i live in florida. number 1...never happened...and 2 yea its nasty pull lol

 

i think it looks good, did you reset the ECU?

 

If you put it on correctly, you shouldnt need to reset the ecu. I put my sri on myself and never reset the ecu.

 

I may try to reset it. Although my EVO does the same thing too, the gas pedal will be sticky on cold starts. And when the gas pedal finally goes down it is very firm almost like the butterfly temporairly sets up on the throttle body. Although that is impossible because the engine needs air to start so I have no idea. I was considering calling road race about it although I dont want them to think badly of calling them for advice on a different product.

 

Everything is normal except the last one. I don't know why your pedal would be sticking, since it's in no way connected to the TB. Perhaps the cable just isn't sliding as well inside the sleeve until it's a bit warm.

 

It is also possible that the throttle cable being rerouted could cause this issue, although I really doubt it. It is zip tied to the upper radiator hose very loosely. Just enough so it wont fall by the fan. I wish the ralliart had direct butterfly like the EVO. It would solve that routing problem. I see no reason why it helps the car.

I talked to toad race and they told me to get a bigger O-ring and to seal the self tapping screws with sealent or thread locker to make sure they were not leaking, although he said if the screws were leaking it ptobably wouldn't make hardly any difference.

 

 

i am not sure, but from this angle it looks like your CAI is touching the lower rad hose? it's going to heat up that pipe

i think the placement of the MAS as well as the sealing of the hole is crucial in not getting a bad idle

the ingen CAI i got is 2.75" all the way EXCEPT where the MAS mount is.. they neck it down to 2 or 2.25" and then it goes back up to 2.75" again.. it looks weird but i figure it's for anti-reversion of something.. maybe that's your problem..

otherwise it looks really good.. wish i had the welding equipment to do that work myself

-joe

 

Road race said the 3" should not be a problem, just as long as it is sealed. They said the 3" might be too much although most if this advice is just opnions. They are very nice.

Can you shoot some pictures of the injen near the MAF sensor? Also It is touching the lower radiator hose, but I am not that concerned about it. I may seek some heat soak, but i am sure with it touching it is still cooler than the under the hood stock intake. If it seems really bad during the summer I may get some of that heat wrap. altugh I doubt it will really need it though.

Thanks for the positive comments. After resetiing the ECU problems 1,3,4 have gone away. Although I am sure it will be an inconsisetent problem like 99% of car problems are.

 

After starting it up this morning something is not right. The car did not want to go anywhere for the first 200ft of driving and was stuttering. Once I turned the street to the main road everything seemed to be ok. The car accelerates great with this intake although I believe some modifications as described below will be in order.

Now I have done some more research and it looks like why it necks down at the MAF is because the computer expects X volume amount of air. A 2.5" intake as Road race sells is required to use the MAF in correct form. Having the pipe go up to 3" makes the car see 30% more air and in cold start and low speed driving the ECU cannot compensate for it. Therefore it makes the car stutter and have issues.The fix here to use 2.5" OD pipe instead of 3". Even if it is right around the MA and the rest is 3" you will still be ok. I will be making a 2.5" section area and then getting some 2.5" to 3" reducers and putting that on the pipe. Not the most appropiate way to do it, although it will fix it. Lesson learned here is to use 2.5" pipe.

 

i think you should be fine just using two reducers and redo the mas area

i am going now to the mechanic.. will post pictures tonigth for you

-joe

 

Thank you. Injen has not returned my calling just yet. I left a message with AEM too. I consulted with a couple local tuners to get the answe I have above. Right now the intake is off and I will be designing a small 2.5" area. Thanks!