They dont make notes of the tyres, but new tyres are distinctive. Someone in the Nexus program got caught trying to sneak tyres in.

 

review section guys. if you want to chat make a new thread and discuss it there

 

Well yesterday I installed the under hood brass shifter bushings, from Speed Source. Now the shifting feels great. The feel of the shifter feel like new. I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone who hasn't already done this.

I also recommend getting something to cut/loosen off the original bushings. After 4-5 years they will probably firmly rusted stuck.

 

+1

Not sure which brand he's got, but i drove RalliartN's car, and loved how his shifter felt, and it's a mod i had on the back burner for a while, but parrishr13 posted an ad for a brand new set of brass cable end, as well as aluminum shifter base bushings. I made him an offer, he accepted, and i couldn't pass it up, so i just finished installing them tonight, was kind of a lengthy undertaking, the small cable end bushing was rust welded to the pin on the lever, and that took a while to get get off, cause i couldn't find my penetrating oil. But what i did was cut the rubber off, and then clamped vice grips to the metal sleeve, and tapped the vice grips back and forth with a hammer, after letting the oil soak for about an hour.

Needless to say, i was very impressed, i forgot how nice it felt. It makes shifting feel like cocking a large caliber bolt action rifle, and there is no "squishy" feeling to the shifter...great mod, not very expensive, and well worth the time to install, which wouldn't be very long if everything comes off smoothly. The shifter base bushings are key though, makes the the stick feel stiffer in the neutral range (side to side) and this only amplifies how smooth and solid the shifts are, due to the cable end bushings.

 

I did some mods now and have driven over 2800 miles on those mods and decided it's time for a review.

Car specs and history

History

• Owner since: May 2005 (used with 5000 miles on the car) <-- car is paid off
• Car model: 2004 Lancer Mitsubishi Ralliart M\T
• Miles to date on car: 109900
• Miles to date on engine: 109900
• Miles to date on transmission: 2800

Mods prior

• Eibach Pro-kit lowered springs
• EBC rotors
• 17" Drag wheels
• Galant TB
• RRM Timing box
• AEM SRI
• Blox front roll stopper
• RRM UDP

I needed to get the transmission rebuilt so I decided to do some stuff while it was out.

Mods added at the same time

• RRM lower clutch line
• Brass shifter bushings
• Exedy OEM cluch
• Aasco Aluminum flywheel

Cost of mods plus transmission rebuild: $2286.00 USD**

Aasco flywheel
The ralliart has a pretty heavy flywheel, hence the large torque numbers. The car isn't too heavy, but it is a weighty car. Cars that are heavy need that flywheel to keep the inertia to be able to move it through the RPM range. I had some concerns with this prior to the flywheel change. One of my main points was to get rid of the UDP because an offset of weight on the moving parts (Crank) can be detrimental to the crank bearings with abnormal wear along with piece of mind. Plus I hated when my lights dimmed at idle with the UDP. I went into the lightened flywheel knowing that I would

• probably lose some low-end torque
• lose top-end inertia

I was OK with that because it is my DD, I don't ever hit top-end although WOT does occur while driving the flywheel actually promotes a better feel. I set my main goals to be

• get rid of the UDP
• keep the quick ramping of rpms that the UDP created
• smoother mid-range shifting
• smoother down shifting (better RPM matching)

I'd have to say that I've achieved all my goals and couldn't be happier with the flywheel and the ramping RPM driving it promotes. It has a way more improved RPM response and if you didn't know any better would not know the flywheel was changed. No issues and the car is fun as he!! to drive.

Notables about the Aasco flywheel
It is a beautifully crafted flywheel, I'd definitely recommend it. Light by a long shot compared to the stock. I think it's around 12# and stock is near 30# (I think). I had to get 19.5 MM flywheel to crank bolts, stock is 15.5 and the Aasco flywheel is thicker in the middle than the stock one. I asked Lazukard about his since his post is why I bought this flywheel and he said he didn't need the longer ones, so you may have to measure yourself. Not sure why mine was different but nonetheless, issue was solved.

Other mods installed
I also paired it with an OEM Exedy stock clutch kit (pp, to bearing and clutch). I am a firm believer that you don't need a 4 or 6 puck, or some "special clutch" if you are not pushing out over 200hp or driving as a DD, you will be fine with a stock OEM clutch and TB. I also replaced the lower clutch line with a steel hard line and the upper with a SS line, way better than the slave cylinder. I ended up using the RRM lower line for the upper (should have made my own and saved some coin) and bent a steel hard line for the lower, clutch feels awesome this way. Get rid of that slave cylinder, it's not needed.
I also replaced the stock shifter bushings with brass ones, I forget the manufacturer. As most who have installed these, it can be time consuming but the pay-off is well worth it. Shifts are crisp and clean. Tight. I did lather up the brass bushings with anti-seize paste since it's two different kind of metal touching and I live in Wisconsin (read salt + moisture = corrosion). I do this all the time with steel to aluminum for the same reason. I also replaced the master clutch cylinder since it had a bunch of miles on it along with a rebuilt trans including shift fork.

Bottom line
Well worth the money IMHO. The flywheel matched with the rest of those mods really give the RalliArt the additional spunk it needs. With all those other mods, the car is loads of fun and keeps me around 26mpg combined. I would have liked to not have to had the transmission rebuilt but made the decision to keep the car till about 150k miles so it was worth the money. I'm probably done with mods for the most part now on this car. The only other mod that I would end up doing is replacing the DP with a larger one and muffler, but only if they show signs of wear.

I give this whole mod upgrade


Mods current

• Eibach Pro-kit lowered springs
• EBC rotors
• 17" Drag wheels
• Galant TB
• RRM Timing box
• AEM CAI
• Blox front roll stopper
• Aasco lightened aluminum flywheel
• Exedy OEM clutch, pressure plate
• Brass shifter bushings
• RRM SS lower clutch line (used as upper line)
• Steel lower clutch hard line

**transmission rebuild was less than normal cost since I know the builder

 

Very nice thorough post

 

My mods are in my signature...

ECU reflash/tune - $500
Quaife LSD - $350 (what a deal, couldn't believe it myself)
ACT clutch - $150 (same guy who sold me the LSD, very good deal)
Blox engine mount - $70
VIS CF evo 6 style hood - $100
Tein S-tech springs - $140
Shifter base/cable end bushings - $50
AEM sri - $200
CherryBomb axle-back $60, 60$ for the tip, and 90$ for professional installation
ARP head studs - $120
AEM UEGO wideband $80
Kumho Tires - $160 x4
JDM eclipse wheels $300

total - $2,910 give or take a few bucks...and that is excluding all the money i spent on stuff for my turbo conversion, as well as the $800 bucks i dropped when my timing belt went...looks like i actually paid 15k for my car, lol

Reflash - Awesome, can't wait for the software
LSD - beyond words, whole new car
Clutch - Love it, no problems that others were having
Blox mount - everyone should have one
CF hood - looks pretty good, can't wait to paint it
Tein's - ride not as bad as i was expecting, look great
Shifter bushings - everyone should have these too, whole new feel to shift
AEM sri - very disappointed, too expensive, under-performing
CherryBomb sounds awesome for the price
ARP head studs - these are not required for normally aspirated engines
JDM wheels - Lighter than USDM stock wheels, and relatively unique.
Kumho tires - Not really thrilled with the performance, they are quite good, but not as good as i would have liked for the price i paid for them.

 

Let's see if we can get this thread alive again. Surely we've done something to our cars since this thread became inactive?

My first review: AEM Cold Air Intake
Looks- 5/5: Since I chose the red tubing, it looks absolutely fantastic in the engine bay.
Ease of Installation- 4/5: Of course, since it is just a CAI, installation is not hard at all. However, I rated this 4/5 simply because the MAF was a huge pain due to the screws. But this is, of course, not related to the CAI itself.
Performance- 3/5: The gain is not as noticeable as one might expect, but it is there ever so slightly in the higher RPMs. As with most CAIs, I did notice loss of torque in lower RPMs, which I will hopefully be getting back with the header/downpipe kit I just ordered and the UDP I will be ordering soon from RRM. Make sure you allow adequate time for the ECU to relearn once you put the CAI on.

 

The reporting pause is due to Enforced January Hibernation. My mods in a couple months will be Swift springs, and changing out the factory-crushed exhaust mid-pipe and trying a hi-flow catcon. Reports will be forthcoming.

btw, I'd say to anybody wanting a relatively cheap bang-for-the-buck mod to help get through the winter blahs, buy the CG-Lock seat belt tightener, strafe some corners, and then report back here. I love this thing... can't beat American ingenuity.

 

I'm having my crushed mid pipe replaced soon, by a muffler shop and flanged after the stock flex pipe before i make my downpipe. Also i'm buying that CG-Lock when i get my income tax return...


Not thread jacking here, i actually have a review...



Yesterday in the mail i got on of these ELM 327 OBDII bluetooth adapters, and i got a 7 day trial for a smart phone app called "OBDScope" for Symbian phones...i'm sure everyone and their dog is aware of "Torque" for Android phones, but i just happen to have a Nokia N8 smart phone, and i stumbled across this, as it's not listed in the app store, you download it from the developper's web site, copy the file to to the phone and execute the install on the phone.

http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/juvout/obdscope/

Anyway, so i'll get the the point, if you have a Symbian phone that's listed on their website under hardware for supported phones, then i'll tell you that this app works with our cars.

Features: DTC library, DTC scanning/clearing, live monitoring of 24 data streams, data logging (1,2,4,12 samples per second), you can save DTC diagnosis to keep a history of codes that were thrown, even after clearing it as well...depending on your screen resolution on your phone you can monitor quite a few gauges at once...and the outputs you get from the 4g69 are:

coolant temp
short term fuel trim
long term fuel trim
intake manifold pressure
engine rpm
vehicle speed
timing advance
intake air temperature
airflow rate
absolute throttle position
both O2 sensors (%, voltage,lambda)
engine power
engine torque
narrowband AFR

Now i just read those from my data log, but i left a few out, cause you can choose which ones to log before you start, there's also a means of tracking fuel economy, estimated load, gps speed, and some other stuff i didn't bother logging, but for our engines, there is 24 things you can monitor...anyways, i'll probably make a video, to show you what it does, but here's a review i found that lead me to purchasing this app, and the bluetooth adapter...

http://www.scantool.net/obdscope_review/

 

Cranswick, please report on the fixed mid-pipe after it is done, I will take my car to that shop if you recommend them.

 

I'm having it done at D&D automotive, it's down the street by my house, they don't do mandrel bends, but i have some mandrel bent pipe that i will provide them...even if i go with 2.25" press bend, it'll be an improvement over the stock pipe, as i'm pretty sure the stock pipe pre-cat is only 2"...

 

I am am going to do new headers in my car ASASP, however, I am just trying to find the one that catches my eye. It seems to be that RRM is the best choose, but am i just buying the name over the performance?

 

what performance? you're paying for the name...

 

I too just received/installed a lightweight UDP. I was told that it would require an impact gun but then was educated that it didn't and only required the removal of four bolts on the 4G69 in my '04 Lancer Ralliart Sportback A/T. Cool, I can do that!

Brought it back home, opened the hood, located the UDP, removed the RF wheel and the plastic fender liners, and had direct access to the UDP. Took a 14mm socket, loosened the four bolts (requires some manual impacting to loosen and keep the serp' belt from moving), use a 1/2" socket extension to loosen the tensioner (as stated in above post), and remove the belt from the UDP ONLY! Finish removing the bolts, gently wiggle the old UDP loose from the crankshaft, and install the lightweight pulley. Torque the bolts to specs, replace the serp belt, and voila! 15/30 minutes to install if all goes well.

I was not able to determine the weight of the new pulley but it felt (0.5 - 1) lb. RRM's weight = one pound, whereas the OEM pulley is four pounds. Below is from Zena Racing on Ebay:

"Lightweight Crank Pulleys reduce parasitic drag placed on the crankshaft by underdriving the accessories such as Alternator, Power Steering and Air Conditioning.
Underdriving slows down the accessories to use less energy from the crankshaft but doesn't slow them down to the point the accessory operation becomes effected.
Most of the power gains are produced from the lightened weight of the crank pulley. Tests show that an average of 2.7 HP is gained from every pound of weight that is reduced from the crankshaft."

4 - 1 = 3 x 2.7 hp = 8.1 hp

Even with this, and as of yet, I can't tell a difference, but Zena's information is in the right direction.

Before:



After:


Price: $100 (left a pm on Ebay for Zena Racing and stated I thought shipping was too much. Listed at $83 + $30 shipping = $113.00)
Worth the money? Sure, why not, if you have the money.