I got mine in, install was pretty easy. I didn't bother taking the splash shield all the way off. I just took out the top 2 bolts and the rubber plug, and was able to get to everything.

I also lined up the new and old pullies and etched a timing mark on the new one with a small triangular file.

 

I installed the pulley this afternoon. It took just under an hour to get everything done the way I wanted. 1/2 hour for the installation (like most people seemed to have taken) and almost 1/2 hour to find some rulers and the dremel to make a small timing mark.

I noticed the gains in torque and power through all the gears, but the first 3 gears are the most noticeable. This pulley is defintely the best bang for the buck


Myszkewicz,

In the main crank pulley thread, you asked if it wouldn't be easier to use the cam gear when doing the valve adjustment. From my experience, it was not, since the timing mark which the cam gear aligns to, is on the vavle cover. For the crank pulley timing mark, it aligns with a fixed marking on the engine block.

Plus, after the adjustment of one group of valves (eg. valves based on TDC of cylinder no.1) you are to turn the crank 360 degrees to once again align the timing marks to do the next group of vavle adjustments (in this case, TDC of cyl.no.4). If you used the cam gear, the turn of the crank 360 degrees equates to 180 degrees on the cam. The cam gear (like pulley) only has one set of timing marks. So you would be in a situation where the cam gear has no marking to align with the valve cover marking. The Cam gears timing is best suited to just find TDC for Cyl.1, while the crank pulley can be used to easily find TDC for Cyl.1 and Cyl.4 (needed when doing the valve adjustment).

Actually, after installing this pulley I realized that it may not have been that important to have the timing mark afterall. The pulley, being smaller in diameter, will not line up with the timing mark on the engine block as nicely as the stock pulley. There will be a gap between the marks, and basically, it will come down to some "eyeing" it out or making a good guess as to whether or not they are aligned correctly. So it may turn out in future vavle adjustments that a combination in the use of the cam gear and pulley timing mark are required to adjust for TDC - or just temporarily swap the stock pulley back on - which is probably the easier way


RVS1111

 

for those of you who have it installed, what is your rev limiter??? did you peak rpm's go up??? i noticed when i got my flywheel installed my rpm's went up from 6500 to 6750...

 

Thank you!! This is the best quote I have heard yet. If anyone has any questions or more comments I would greatly apprecieate it.
Joe

 

i dyno'd withthe pully yesterday. gained about 4 PEAK hp. peak torque stayed about the same. keep in mind that i ran my previous dyno in may, when the temps were about 20degrees lower. also had 100% humidity today. i think the results would have been better given equal conditions, especially /w the humidity!

however, the non-peak portions seems to raise a bit faster and taper off more slowly, as expected.

https://www.evolutionm.net/registry/dynos.php?model=36

 

Looks good. I am sure when looking at both dyno charts you see huge differences. There are large gains in all RPM's. What was your Barometric pressure during testing. I know it was raining her last night which in that case would really take some HP away. What was the difference in torque?

I am glad to see your testing the product. Way to go! I hope your just as happy with it now after seeing the dyno sheets!

 

for those of you who have it installed, what is your rev limiter??? did you peak rpm's go up??? i noticed when i got my flywheel installed my rpm's went up from 6500 to 6750...

 

I did notice any difference, do you want me to go bang the car off the rev limiter to see if it is any higher? Since engiene RPM is based off like 3-4 different sensors I don't think a pulley/flywheel would make a difference although I guess it could be possible. Last I knew redline was 6500 and rev limiter was 6700 or so.

 

power starts to die 6200rpms . why do you care about the rev limiter? we make no hp at redline.

 

So it is actually better to shift near redline and not under it? I think this topic should be moved to another thread.

 

i think so too

 

yes it is better but and this is a nice new topic.....

 

So, has anyone else dyno'd since having this installed?

 

^^
i did...


add coolmivec to the installed list!

 

OK, I got my pulley today, and of course installed it immediately. Install was a breeze the only problem I had was locking the tensioner in place, I couldve used a hand there but managed it myself. It was also a convenient time for me to do an oil change with the wheel and splashguards off.

So after the oil change and pulley install I took it for a rip, noticed a difference right away, feels quicker in the low rpms, faster throttle response, and you can cruise in first gear at a much lower RPM without the car wanting to stall out (I was driving around a parking lot at about 500RPM I was barely touching the gas at all)

Anyways, barring any sort of long term side affects I definately recommend this pulley.