WORKS STAGE 2 CLUTCH: INSTALL & REVIEW
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WORKS STAGE 2 CLUTCH: INSTALL & REVIEW
I finally had my WORKS STAGE II clutch installed. This could be long so keep reading lots of info here...pics to come.
I have 40000km on the car 25000 miles
When my mechanic took off the stock clutch from the flywheel he noticed that the springs were lose on the friction disk (from launching and auto-x). He also noticed that only half of the pressure plate had marks and a few burnt in spots. This is bad cause every time the clutch was engaged, the contact with the pressure plate and the flywheel was on an angle and this was giving me my chattering when taking off. I was reduced to a small engagement area to take off with and it made the ride (taking off) very difficult and jerky. The friction disk was in great shape and was not near replacement specs. So, my clutch cover that holds the pressure plate seems to have been or was bent on a slight angle. The throw out bearing was worn only on half of the edge and the diaphragm spring "fingers" were also only worn at the same spot...all of this indicating a bent/misaligned cover. I did have transmission work done and I am wondering if the tranny was dropped with the input shaft still inserted to the clutch assembly. The flywheel was in good shape, but had a few heat spots.
The replacement Works Stage 2 Clutch:
1st thing is that the clutch cover is not the same as the stock one. Here in Ottawa we have a large international clutch manufacturer. When my mechanic brought my new and stock clutch over the Ottawa clutch shop, they recognized the clutch cover and parts. The clutch cover is from mazdaspeed, the diaphragm spring is from an evo, and the pressure plate is from a nissan product. I imagine they fit a friction disk to size and VOILA it’s a works stage II. The friction disk was made in Japan and the cover was a daiken.
Fittment issue and specs:
After machining the flywheel, Ottawa clutch noticed that when the new clutch was bolted to the flywheel, the friction surface had a gap. This changed the angle for the release point and the amount of pressure the friction disk had on the flywheel. They had to machine the outer edge of the flywheel one ten thousands on an inch to get the proper clamping load and the proper release point. They tested the stock clutch at 1600lbs of clamping force and the Works Stage 2 at 2098 lbs of clamping force. Once the machining was done all lined up perfectly and the release point was tested and was perfect.
Driving feel:
The works stage 2 has a carbon kevlar friction disk. This means that there is a break in period needed if you want maximum life from the new clutch. During the break in period you have to do about 1000 km or600miles of city driving. You can NEVER launch, shift hard/fast, downshift aggressivly or take off fast in this period. You MUST pretend there is a cup of coffee on the dash board. I am in this phase.
The pedal feels great. There is a slight increase in pedal pressure, but the release feel and fullness of the release stroke is perfect. I can take off extremely SMOOTHLY and with no jerkiness at all. This clutch works wonders for the feel. I have not driven hard yet, but its my nature to do so and I will post as soon as I have an aggressive ride completed. At the end of the month I will be participating in a 400km /250mile over night rally. This will be a drivers rally and I will be driving hard. More to come.
I have 40000km on the car 25000 miles
When my mechanic took off the stock clutch from the flywheel he noticed that the springs were lose on the friction disk (from launching and auto-x). He also noticed that only half of the pressure plate had marks and a few burnt in spots. This is bad cause every time the clutch was engaged, the contact with the pressure plate and the flywheel was on an angle and this was giving me my chattering when taking off. I was reduced to a small engagement area to take off with and it made the ride (taking off) very difficult and jerky. The friction disk was in great shape and was not near replacement specs. So, my clutch cover that holds the pressure plate seems to have been or was bent on a slight angle. The throw out bearing was worn only on half of the edge and the diaphragm spring "fingers" were also only worn at the same spot...all of this indicating a bent/misaligned cover. I did have transmission work done and I am wondering if the tranny was dropped with the input shaft still inserted to the clutch assembly. The flywheel was in good shape, but had a few heat spots.
The replacement Works Stage 2 Clutch:
1st thing is that the clutch cover is not the same as the stock one. Here in Ottawa we have a large international clutch manufacturer. When my mechanic brought my new and stock clutch over the Ottawa clutch shop, they recognized the clutch cover and parts. The clutch cover is from mazdaspeed, the diaphragm spring is from an evo, and the pressure plate is from a nissan product. I imagine they fit a friction disk to size and VOILA it’s a works stage II. The friction disk was made in Japan and the cover was a daiken.
Fittment issue and specs:
After machining the flywheel, Ottawa clutch noticed that when the new clutch was bolted to the flywheel, the friction surface had a gap. This changed the angle for the release point and the amount of pressure the friction disk had on the flywheel. They had to machine the outer edge of the flywheel one ten thousands on an inch to get the proper clamping load and the proper release point. They tested the stock clutch at 1600lbs of clamping force and the Works Stage 2 at 2098 lbs of clamping force. Once the machining was done all lined up perfectly and the release point was tested and was perfect.
Driving feel:
The works stage 2 has a carbon kevlar friction disk. This means that there is a break in period needed if you want maximum life from the new clutch. During the break in period you have to do about 1000 km or600miles of city driving. You can NEVER launch, shift hard/fast, downshift aggressivly or take off fast in this period. You MUST pretend there is a cup of coffee on the dash board. I am in this phase.
The pedal feels great. There is a slight increase in pedal pressure, but the release feel and fullness of the release stroke is perfect. I can take off extremely SMOOTHLY and with no jerkiness at all. This clutch works wonders for the feel. I have not driven hard yet, but its my nature to do so and I will post as soon as I have an aggressive ride completed. At the end of the month I will be participating in a 400km /250mile over night rally. This will be a drivers rally and I will be driving hard. More to come.
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i paid 499US for the clutch with a throw out bearing.
A close friend of mine did the install for 300canadian with a complete brake fluid flush and all of the machine work for the flywheel. I got a killer deal. He is a crew chief for an Evo IV rally team. He knows his stuff and my install came out great.!!!
A close friend of mine did the install for 300canadian with a complete brake fluid flush and all of the machine work for the flywheel. I got a killer deal. He is a crew chief for an Evo IV rally team. He knows his stuff and my install came out great.!!!
Did you have any noises when the stock clutch was in? The reason I ask is that I have had my throw-out bearing replaced because of a chirping noise and after I had it replaced it is doing it even worse than before... I am wondering if I have the same problem... I don't race and I am not really hard on the car... it's been doing it since I got it...
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No, the stock clutch was noise free. The bearing itsef was fine, its the RACE on it where it pushes againts the diaphragm spring that was half work and had some notches.
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I have the same problem with the jerky take off. I'm currently at about 52,000KM, and almost out of warranty. I'm debating taking the car into the dealer and asking them to fix it, or just buying an upgraded clutch. I'm planning on buying the RRM turbo this winter, so i think an upgraded clutch will be required.
Thoughts?
Ry.
Thoughts?
Ry.
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From: ottawa, canada
if drivability concerns you, be carefull in what you buy. SOme clutches are like on/off switches and suck if the car is your daily driver. This is a stage 2 and is easier to drive than the stock clutch for feeling. Yes the pedal is firmer, but its better all round. RRM's clutch is more expensive, has less clamping force and does not have a throw out bearing. WORKS is the better deal. I know nothing about the clutchmasters.
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WORKS stage 2 has a carbon kevlar friction disk. You have to baby it for the first few thousand KM's. But once this "burn in" period is over, carbon kevlar clutches will outlast the car. The guy who the install for me said that a canadian rally team had just installed a kevlar clutch and wanted to test the car on the dyno, they did 4 power shifts and then the car could not move off of the dyno. The clutch was a BULLY clutch, but they did not break in the clutch. They missed out on the next rally because of it. BREAK IN IS VERY IMPORTANT
Originally Posted by mojambo
I know nothing about the clutchmasters.
ok they have
fx 300
and
fx 400
the fx 300 is like the works clutch.. is made out of kevlar (segmented kevlar steel disk) +/-110 over stok holding capacity

the fx400 is ceramic and 4 winged +/-170 over stock holdign capacity


