Alright, I'm going to ask for you forgiveness, im aware this question has been asked. But i can't really find everything i need. Plus I would like people to anweser my specific questions so i don't end up messing up somewhere... Today in school looking through an import magazine. Saw an artical on nitrous. I read through it, I know the concept of dry/wet systems But, what i would like to know is, What should i upgrade if i decide to go nitrous? Injectors etc etc. I'm still not sure if i want wet or dry. What do you guys all think? I don't want some crazy amount of HP jump with this, 30-40 range i think would be nice. I do know that i want it to be Rev-Activated. No buttons. Let me know, thanks! Once again sorry for bringin' the topic up again.

 

well i run a wet system and changed my air to fuel ratio and injectors while i only run a 75 shot max i had my buddy flash my ecu and use the piggyback from RRM its doesnt bother any of my internals but im to shakey to increase the shot.

 

I have read extensively on the subjuct an its kinda a matter of preferance. I have a dry system for sale an zex told me that i didnt have to upgrade anything but if i wanted to be a little safer they said to get a lower temp plug. an its a 50 shot dry rev activated Pm me if intrested

 

Ihave read that a 30-40 shot is really not worth fooling with. For the RA, 50-75 would be more like it. Cooler plugs can help but you also have to tweak the timing a bit to avoid detonation. Do what I did. Google nitrous oxide and you'll find more articles than you can imagine. But most of them say the same thing...it is possible to ad juice without having to do internal mods. Just don't overdo it!

 

You know that zex system works great and its cool how they supply the "box" that determines how much can safely get squeezed to prevent catastrophic problems. My buddy squeezes with zex and hasn't come across any probs. But difinetly go with cooler plugs, you might feel a negative difference in power but its better for the nitrous. As far as nitrous buttons go, all i know from personal experience is that you have to activate it and it will only operate at full throttle, for the zex system i believe. Not like that famous oh so awesome movie fast & delerious portrays. Beefy clutch would be my next step.

 

dry shots are bad!! don't use them. That ZEX kit is the exact kit i used back in the day and blew the motor twice. ZEX would do nothing for me but say, "that shouldn't have happened..."

The dry systems can be tuned for and can be ran... but since they are a dry shot they have rapid freezing capabilities. This can often hamper the intake air charge due to cystalizing of the intake runners. (condensation in intake charge litterally freezes in mid air)

After doing extensive research the only applications that have been proven safe time and time again are wet systems. They still do require some tuning but rarely do you see a failure caused by that type of system.

I know the wet systems are a lot more expensive but they are that way for a reason... they provide what is need for safe operations on NOS.

my .02

 

^^^+2165195495198156

the only time i used a dry sistem was on a mustang (302) and the foggers were placed on top of the inyectors... for our application a dry shot in the usual place we should put makes for what boe has stated, unless you go direct port with a nice fuel upgrade it is wiser a wet one imho...
btw ill post some pics later of an install i made in a ra.... jijijijijijiji

 

If you wanna run nos safely, you are gonna wanna upgrade injectors, fuel pump, pretty much your entire fuel system. And a whole crapload of other stuff to run a good shot of NAWWWSSSSSSSSSS

 

Headstuds, pistons, and rods wouldn't be a bad idea, either. Would help you endure a larger shot, as well.

 

Thats what i needed. Thank god the idiots stayed outta this fourm. Thank you!

 

first off if you wanna know more about nitrous check out the forced induction forum, theres a guy(dallasn2o) that just upt his nitrous from a 50 to 80 shot with stock internals and stock fuel system(i think) just check out his thread, it sounds like he knows what hes doin

 

Here's .02 from the other guy who's posted nitrous times as well (with a timeslip :P). My biggest problem was getting the nozzle placed properly and not being used to "official" drag racing. I didn't upgrade a single thing internally, not the fuel pump, plugs, ecu, or "oval ball bearings" either. Wether or not you can run Nitrous oxide safely depends on how much restraint you can use. I don't care what you upgrade, if you hit the button on every on ramp, every day you drive it.... It aint gonna last! With restraint and occasionaly use it shouldn't wear your motor out too quickly. For legitimate 1320' racing I'd recommend the NX wet system for actuall whp gains (see my dynos). I used their Mainline system but the solenoids are only rated for 10 seconds and it takes longer than that to hit the traps. A huge word of advice on your proposed system, beware the rpm only option! Nothing will blow your motor quicker than N2O in 1st or 5th gear!!!!!!! You'll blast through the fuel cutoff point in 1st before you know it and then BOOM!!! No fuel means almost pure oxygen burning that tends to burn a little hotter, ask a welder about it! In 5th gear your motor isn't turning fast enough to keep up with the added compression so your rings take the punishment of added pressure.
Don't worry about timing if you stay under a 75 wet shot. That's the limit though. For the occasional weekend race (with 93 octane gas only!) shouldn't hurt your motor. For refference sake the stock iridium plugs are going to be fine as well. If you want a dedicated bracket racer with upgraded everything.... well you have more money than you need I guess and didn't want an EVO because it was too "showy" or something. Good luck with everything though! Let us know how it works out!
p.s. NX has the best instructions ever! ;-)