RRM ECU - Small Issues
Originally Posted by r3z0nate
Yea, it is still doing it. Should I get some different mods? It's a bit lean at a certain times, maybe a custom tune would do the trick.
I think i'll be pulling it off.
Originally Posted by r3z0nate
Do you think the pulley and IM would do the trick?
Rock didn't say much about my issue.
Rock didn't say much about my issue.
I guess its really only an issue if you run 93octane and still have problems then. Gas has finally come down in price and is almost affordable again.
I had thought i remembered it saying on their site to run 91oct. or better but that was a while ago. dont see that on the description anymore...?
I had thought i remembered it saying on their site to run 91oct. or better but that was a while ago. dont see that on the description anymore...?
The problem is that the map in the pb is to lean, using high octane fuel just helps with the problem partially. I order to maximise the pb and protect your engien and you pocket the real solution is to dynotune the pb. this has been discussed in other thread. Again the pb is designed to run in regular fuel not premium. Good Luck!!!
Why does higher octane partially fix it?
Higher octane is not = to more power. Only exception would be in a car with some type of forced induction, where you could effectively increase the compression ratio with higher octane fuel. Higher octane fuel has no more "power" in it, the difference is it's anti-knock properties, meaning you can run a higher compression ratio without getting detonation.
*******EDIT***********
Found some good info on this:
http://www.rockettbrand.com/technica...ths%20power%22
Also the wiki is pretty good on it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
Edit again for a monster link: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasol.../preamble.html
Here is the main bit:
"6.13 Can higher octane fuels give me more power?
On modern engines with sophisticated engine management systems, the engine
can operate efficiently on fuels of a wider range of octane rating, but there
remains an optimum octane for the engine under specific driving conditions.
Older cars without such systems are more restricted in their choice of fuel,
as the engine can not automatically adjust to accommodate lower octane fuel.
Because knock is so destructive, owners of older cars must use fuel that will
not knock under the most demanding conditions they encounter, and must
continue to use that fuel, even if they only occasionally require the octane.
If you are already using the proper octane fuel, you will not obtain more
power from higher octane fuels. The engine will be already operating at
optimum settings, and a higher octane should have no effect on the management
system. Your driveability and fuel economy will remain the same. The higher
octane fuel costs more, so you are just throwing money away. If you are
already using a fuel with an octane rating slightly below the optimum, then
using a higher octane fuel will cause the engine management system to move to
the optimum settings, possibly resulting in both increased power and improved
fuel economy. You may be able to change octanes between seasons ( reduce
octane in winter ) to obtain the most cost-effective fuel without loss of
driveability.
Once you have identified the fuel that keeps the engine at optimum settings,
there is no advantage in moving to an even higher octane fuel. The
manufacturer's recommendation is conservative, so you may be able to
carefully reduce the fuel octane. The penalty for getting it badly wrong,
and not realising that you have, could be expensive engine damage. "
So it COULD be that a higher octane fuel might have more energy in it, but I'll believe that when I see it on the dyno.
Higher octane is not = to more power. Only exception would be in a car with some type of forced induction, where you could effectively increase the compression ratio with higher octane fuel. Higher octane fuel has no more "power" in it, the difference is it's anti-knock properties, meaning you can run a higher compression ratio without getting detonation.
*******EDIT***********
Found some good info on this:
http://www.rockettbrand.com/technica...ths%20power%22
Also the wiki is pretty good on it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
Edit again for a monster link: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasol.../preamble.html
Here is the main bit:
"6.13 Can higher octane fuels give me more power?
On modern engines with sophisticated engine management systems, the engine
can operate efficiently on fuels of a wider range of octane rating, but there
remains an optimum octane for the engine under specific driving conditions.
Older cars without such systems are more restricted in their choice of fuel,
as the engine can not automatically adjust to accommodate lower octane fuel.
Because knock is so destructive, owners of older cars must use fuel that will
not knock under the most demanding conditions they encounter, and must
continue to use that fuel, even if they only occasionally require the octane.
If you are already using the proper octane fuel, you will not obtain more
power from higher octane fuels. The engine will be already operating at
optimum settings, and a higher octane should have no effect on the management
system. Your driveability and fuel economy will remain the same. The higher
octane fuel costs more, so you are just throwing money away. If you are
already using a fuel with an octane rating slightly below the optimum, then
using a higher octane fuel will cause the engine management system to move to
the optimum settings, possibly resulting in both increased power and improved
fuel economy. You may be able to change octanes between seasons ( reduce
octane in winter ) to obtain the most cost-effective fuel without loss of
driveability.
Once you have identified the fuel that keeps the engine at optimum settings,
there is no advantage in moving to an even higher octane fuel. The
manufacturer's recommendation is conservative, so you may be able to
carefully reduce the fuel octane. The penalty for getting it badly wrong,
and not realising that you have, could be expensive engine damage. "
So it COULD be that a higher octane fuel might have more energy in it, but I'll believe that when I see it on the dyno.
Last edited by Lephturn; Sep 20, 2006 at 10:41 AM.
just got my piggy, I'll install it with Molex or AMP connector to be abble to remove it if the engine knocks
I'll follow the thread and give you my impressions too, great info by the way
I'll follow the thread and give you my impressions too, great info by the way
I soldered the connections, they are on there super tight.
Running higher octane doesn't do anything in my situation, I think I just drove differently(didn't notice it) on the couple of tanks when I used premium. The last couple tanks have been premium but it does it just as much with 89 or 93octane
Running higher octane doesn't do anything in my situation, I think I just drove differently(didn't notice it) on the couple of tanks when I used premium. The last couple tanks have been premium but it does it just as much with 89 or 93octane
Originally Posted by Lephturn
Why does higher octane partially fix it?
From what i understand the pb problem is that it will make the car run lean and premium fuel will hel prevent problems in that situation, but it will not give you more power, and will not solve the problem.
The only way to fix this is bay taking your car to the dyno and tuning it for your mods.
The piggyback stock map is supposed to match up to axleback and CAI. It doesn't matter what mods you have, if you get it tuned it will be safe. Even on a stock vehicle you can add a piggyback to get you closer to the ideal air/fuel mixture throughout the rpm range. What you are asking then is, do you not have enough mods to suit the base piggyback map? Considering the axleback is a slight modification to the exhaust and the fact that you have a sri I don't think it would be a problem. The stock map is not far off from my tuned map as far as the a/f ratio is concerned. Now that's not to say your base map is way off from where it should be. Unless you can get a refund on the piggy and go with another more expensive option I suggest you go to the dyno. Tuning mine was $150 an hour, and took one and a half hours, and I was charged $150 because it took us a little while to figure out the software. Now I can be 100% positive I have a safe map for my car. It may not be the best map, but it's definitely safe. I intend on buying the wideband sometime so I can tune it myself. Got other priorities right now though.


