lol... listen...

you can spend 300 on a CAI, 600 on headers/downpipe, 550 on catback, 350 for IM, 120 for pulley, 500 on piggyback, and 1300 on PP head.

Total Money = 3720 dollars?
Total Power = 200 Wheel HP??

Turbo kit ... well. its a kit, its all you need. Bolt on, no problem, start up, and drive fast...

Total money = 4300
Total Power = 240 Wheel HP 260 lbs of tq.

i would save up, spend the extra 600 bucks and get the extra 40 HP

trust me, it says 220-240 whp, you feel the 260 lbs of TQ. and it feels like WOW.

i mean, unless you WANT to go natural aspirtated, than 200 whp isnt bad for a four banger. We have a very "tourquey" motor. But i'll tell you this. I was all RRM all motor and i spent that much money (minus ported head) and i "thought" my car was fast.

i ditched the NA setup (alot of wasted money) and went turbo, and my car is AMAZING. There is absolutly no comparasion...

 

thanks for your input i will go turbo for the extra 40
i was just thanking of a sleeper thats all cause if they saw the cooler then they know 200 plus so if all is good then i will put it on in dec.

 

paint the intercoooler black... sleeper

 

about that LSD,I was just thinking about putting some sceening in front of the intercooler instaed of painting it black , I have heard that painting it black encourages heat , but I was planing on turning my nos kit into an intercooler spray bar after going turbo.....?....

 

ya there ya go... personally i dont like nos, but if thats what you like (and what you already have) that cool, good idea. and if you wanna screen it up thats fine. If you wanna hide it you need a real fine screen.

 

but why drain the engine as n/a if you plan to go fi then? you see the engine can hold so much compresion (sp?) if you were to push it further it will just blow.. either go full n/a ir go fi you cant have it both ways...

then again, you can still use the port and polish the top end that helps everybody, but if you were planning FI buy lower comp pistons and boost the thing up, the engine loves boost

 

the engine loves boost

 

youll dyno about 160. swap the manifold for a UD pulley and it was my mod list when i dynoed 160.

 

if a cold air intake gives you 9 hp, and the pulley gives you 7 hp, your not gonna gain 16 hp... It just all flows together in the dyno chart. Myabe you gain 9 hp at 6000 prms with the cai, and you gain 7 hp at 4000 rpm with the pulley. You gain the power at different points of the power band, so your not gaining the PEAK horsepower. Do your understand?

 

I would still say the #1 most cost effective mod you can do to your engine is the RRM UDP. I'm sure ppl w/agree. The gains are noticeable - not "blow you away" noticable but 6-7HP is quite an increase for $130.00 - additionally 9 ft/lb torque is insane. the car truly does pull harder. Quite a bit harder - and it's a 1 hour install...Just my $1.17...

 

well for a $1.18 i'll agree with you. Its the best bang for the buck and its one of the few mods you can keep with the turbo kit. That and a tie bar should be everybody's first "stage one" upgrades. small money, noticable gains.

 

so if i end up doing the turbo kit from rrm i should just go for the udp and maybe just a temp sri and a performance muffler(or just stock) until i do or what do you guys think

 

its up to you.. You can always sell your old parts on the forums here

 

If you go with the maganaflow catback exhaust from RRM you can keep that too if you go F/I. The 2.25" is good enough for turbo - personally I run a custom Apex-i racing exhaust - it's all your own preference. I don't want to have what everyone else has so you spend a few extra bucks and have your own style...yet again, just my $1.17...