RRM Flywheel and ACT Clutch
there pretty touchy untill you break them in... but ya HUGE Differnce IMO
the main purpose of the flywheel is to 'liberate' the weight so at the end of the road it will give you power.... as far as i know the little or no torque you will 'loose' you will gain in whp
i dont know if i wrote that well but bare with me
The flywheel is designed to keep the engine rotating, so if you have 300 whp and you come off the clutch the rpms will drop pretty quick. The actual torque output of the engine is completely unaffected by the weight of the drivetrain components. The only limit is how much of the torque can be transfered to the ground with the weight of the drivetrain components included. Along this line of thinking, and to supports PR's statement, you should actually see an increase in both HP and TQ. I doubt it will make a difference on a dyno, but there will be some difference regardless of whether or not you can see it.
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From: Ponce P.R.
I was in doubut at first about droping tq. But, from what I feel, it shifts the tq curve earlier, the car pulls like if its has 20 pounds more of tq, of course, AFTER 3K. I tought it was gonna lossesome umph in the top end. If it does I havent noticed this yet. And wont for a little while, breaking that clutch in nice and smoothly. ...After the couple of test I ran it through, which, were few. Just had to test if it was on right, if the clutch was nicely installed without hiccups, the shift in the power curve...and good clean fun
Day 3 goes without trouble, EXCEPT, that the clutch pedal feels like if it weights a ton, I guess I need a new line. Because the modulator is making the clutch engaged too slowly. Anybody had this problem?
Day 3 goes without trouble, EXCEPT, that the clutch pedal feels like if it weights a ton, I guess I need a new line. Because the modulator is making the clutch engaged too slowly. Anybody had this problem?
I just had my clutch and flywheel installed by a local mitsu dealer, but I am having a problem. When I downshift, the car vibrates/shakes, almost like something is not catching right away. I thought that it might be out of balance or something, but the mitsu tech believes it could be due to the aluminum rivited flywheel and believes the only way to fix this problem is to replace it with the stock one. They have bled the clutchline twice to make sure there are no air pockets in the clutchline as well. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?
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From: Ponce P.R.
With the lighter weight, sometimes you car feel the engine rev, even if your downshifting and engine braking plus baking, you will feel the engine bog because it revs down much quiker and braking makes it even quicker
To me is something normal, also with the clutch(at least mine) you can feel EVERYTHING thru the shifter, especiacially if you fill the mounts or have a dampener
To me is something normal, also with the clutch(at least mine) you can feel EVERYTHING thru the shifter, especiacially if you fill the mounts or have a dampener
Any chance someone can create a pro vs con list on the flywheel?
I'm getting the Stage 1 RRM cluthc (ACT i believe) either way, figured if i had some spare cash i'd get teh flywheel while i'm in there replaced too. But i do a TON of downshifting especially with the backroads i go on...
I'm getting the Stage 1 RRM cluthc (ACT i believe) either way, figured if i had some spare cash i'd get teh flywheel while i'm in there replaced too. But i do a TON of downshifting especially with the backroads i go on...
major thing it will detrimental to is gas mileage, but it will be negligible. The inertia of the flywheel keeps the motor spinning and drivetrain moving (helps you coast further) so it doesn't have to work as hard when you get back on the throttle. This is one of those things that car companies use to get within government standards. In other words the difference might only be a tenth of a mile per tank, so small it doesn't matter to you, but when you are trying to meet a government regulation every little bit counts.
other things may be more noticeable vibration, possibly a difference in sound too, just like with the pulley. any time you free up the motor to rev faster, which you are doing when you remove rotational mass, you will change the harmonics of the engine slightly. this causes different vibrations and sounds, but I wouldn't call it a negative consequence.
pros are faster revving, both up and down the tach, which lets you dictate the tach needle more accurately between shifts. You are also losing rotational mass/inertia which frees up HP just like the pulley. You won't feel it, but it's there. if the flywheel is designed well it will help with heat dissapation and give the clutch more grip.
other things may be more noticeable vibration, possibly a difference in sound too, just like with the pulley. any time you free up the motor to rev faster, which you are doing when you remove rotational mass, you will change the harmonics of the engine slightly. this causes different vibrations and sounds, but I wouldn't call it a negative consequence.
pros are faster revving, both up and down the tach, which lets you dictate the tach needle more accurately between shifts. You are also losing rotational mass/inertia which frees up HP just like the pulley. You won't feel it, but it's there. if the flywheel is designed well it will help with heat dissapation and give the clutch more grip.
So overall its worth it for a N/A only car? I only have a CBE, SRI, and engine dampener right now, you think its worth it for me? I will be replacing my clutch with a stage 1 either way though.
