Next upgrade
this is not correct. the ecu will still have the same abilities it had before the piggyback. the only thing the piggyback does is modify the signal coming from the MAF. It is two dimensional, RPM vs Voltage, and only changes one value. you are tweaking a map in the piggyback, which is really halfway tweaking a map in the ECU, and this doesn't affect any of the ECU's ability to extrapolate values for it's map using other sensors.
that being said, offsetting the values WILL affect how easily the ECU overcomes changes, which is probably why some of us are seeing the season changes change our tunes. I would hypothesize that because we are changing values at one temperature to make it ideal when the temperature changes again the ECU still compensates for the change but with our modification on top of it it throws the ECU's calculations off. we are modifying one signal (a primary signal for fuel) out of many that the ECU uses to calculate fuel, and even though we know what this signal means we don't have any idea what the algorithms look like.
think of it like this. the ecu draws a a wiggly line. you use the piggyback to make that line straight by changing the values the ECU gets to see from the MAF. then the sun goes down and your temps drop. the ECU is still drawing a wiggly line, but the peaks are all moved around now due to the temperature change. your values in the piggyback aren't going to make the line straight any more, are they? your ECU just adjusted, but the tune you have on the piggy is no longer ideal. the further you move from the tuning conditions the further off your tune will fall.
you are over simplifying how this system operates. for one thing the IAT sensor exhibits known resistances at particular temperatures; it's not a hot-wire sensor. while the sample rate of this sensor is probably affected by instant temperature changes it's pretty likely it can tell the difference between -10* and 75*.
as for the base tune, it's been proven to be lean on some cars. This was before you became a member, so it's not like we expect you to know this, but we aren't just saying it.
In summation, modifying the signal coming from the MAF isn't really going to limit your ECU's ability to compensate for atmospheric changes unless those changes are quick enough to put you far outside your current conditions. tuning on a dyno in SoCal (especially when you aren't even using the same car or even mods) and immediately flying the piggyback to Ontario for installation is going to show you exactly how much outside temperature and altitude matter. your cars stock tune is drastically different between these locations (open loop) so your base tune is going to be way off.
I'm not saying you'll blow your engine, but do you think 16's and 17's are good target AFR's for a base tune? I don't
that being said, offsetting the values WILL affect how easily the ECU overcomes changes, which is probably why some of us are seeing the season changes change our tunes. I would hypothesize that because we are changing values at one temperature to make it ideal when the temperature changes again the ECU still compensates for the change but with our modification on top of it it throws the ECU's calculations off. we are modifying one signal (a primary signal for fuel) out of many that the ECU uses to calculate fuel, and even though we know what this signal means we don't have any idea what the algorithms look like.
think of it like this. the ecu draws a a wiggly line. you use the piggyback to make that line straight by changing the values the ECU gets to see from the MAF. then the sun goes down and your temps drop. the ECU is still drawing a wiggly line, but the peaks are all moved around now due to the temperature change. your values in the piggyback aren't going to make the line straight any more, are they? your ECU just adjusted, but the tune you have on the piggy is no longer ideal. the further you move from the tuning conditions the further off your tune will fall.
you are over simplifying how this system operates. for one thing the IAT sensor exhibits known resistances at particular temperatures; it's not a hot-wire sensor. while the sample rate of this sensor is probably affected by instant temperature changes it's pretty likely it can tell the difference between -10* and 75*.
as for the base tune, it's been proven to be lean on some cars. This was before you became a member, so it's not like we expect you to know this, but we aren't just saying it.
In summation, modifying the signal coming from the MAF isn't really going to limit your ECU's ability to compensate for atmospheric changes unless those changes are quick enough to put you far outside your current conditions. tuning on a dyno in SoCal (especially when you aren't even using the same car or even mods) and immediately flying the piggyback to Ontario for installation is going to show you exactly how much outside temperature and altitude matter. your cars stock tune is drastically different between these locations (open loop) so your base tune is going to be way off.
I'm not saying you'll blow your engine, but do you think 16's and 17's are good target AFR's for a base tune? I don't

Cool, ya i've been doing alot of read lately on the piggy and starting to get some understanding of its workings. Dans post on the piggy it really helping alot. Also I like what your saying kreepaEvoX about the other parts first. Makes sense to me.
Thanks
Thanks
if the piggy is too much work hire someone to do your labor. it's five wires, the cam is much harder to do. with the instructions RRM sends with the piggy the header and DP are actually more thought intensive.
It's not that it to much work I have no problem installing any of the parts I buy I'm just a little over whelmed with the tuning of the piggy. From the reading i've been doing. I will eventully learn how all the software and tuning works, also getting the piggy me's I need a wide band and a loptop along with cable just to get started. which is fine I just save a bit more cash. Or sure I could drive 8 1/2 hours evertime I do something to my car. thats why I said that kreepaEvoX made sense.
yeah, I forgot about the 8-1/2 hour drive. I don't live in the middle of no where myself
the stock tune is rich enough so I don't think you would create problems doing the stuff you want to. I started out not knowing much and just kept reading and playing with the software. Now I know a little, enough to get by on anyway. You can tune your car yourself, but it will rarely be as good as what a pro can do with a good dyno(read eddy current
)
the stock tune is rich enough so I don't think you would create problems doing the stuff you want to. I started out not knowing much and just kept reading and playing with the software. Now I know a little, enough to get by on anyway. You can tune your car yourself, but it will rarely be as good as what a pro can do with a good dyno(read eddy current
)
so you can keep modding, modding and modding... and you should be fine... as a daily driver? not pushing too hard?
then piggy back it, and you can push it hard?
i'm in the same boat.. 5 hours to the closest tune
then piggy back it, and you can push it hard?
i'm in the same boat.. 5 hours to the closest tune
Well i guess i'm holding off on the piggy for a little while till I understand it more, and have more other mods to make the 8 1/2 hour drive more worth it. Of all other n/a mods which could be the best one to get then. I was leaning towards the cam. Any suggestions.
So with desiding to hold off on the piggy until I have a few more mods.
Which order would it be best to do these mods in.
Ported intake manifold,
Cam Shaft
Header and downpipe
or which will work best and compliment each other i'm looking at 2 of 3.
Which order would it be best to do these mods in.
Ported intake manifold,
Cam Shaft
Header and downpipe
or which will work best and compliment each other i'm looking at 2 of 3.


