Well tonight I reset the ecu while doing other things, and after reconnecting it, I doubled the length I let the car idle (to 30 mins) and drove it conservatively for about 30-35ish. After doing that, I seem to have gotten some power back, but I dont think I'll know for sure till my cd with the R4 software gets here on the 28th.

 

you may have never lost power in the first place, although from what I have seen on these base tunes it's entirely possible.

If I haven't said it enough yet, get a wideband and do some research before you just throw on a ~500$ piggyback computer with anyones base tune. yeah, even RRM's. they didn't tune your car man, they tuned a car and sent you a "conservative" tune for those conditions. if your conditions, or engine, vary greatly you can have much different results.

 

THis must be a used box, no? You would have software from us if you bought it new. Used or what? PM me.

ROAD/RACE

 

Rob, we've been over what happened last time I bought a used piggy, thats why the one I have is new, but apparently brian forgot to give me the software, I already emailed him about it and he shipped it last week, but im so far away it still wont get here till the 28th.

Dan, I did lose power, and believe me, I've been studying as many threads about tuning basics, tuning the RA and what not as I can for like the past two months or so. I never planned on sticking with the base RRM map, no offense, but with my cash flow situation (being that of a poor college kid lol), I can't really afford to buy both at the same time, so I'm stuck with the base map untill later this summer when I buy the o2 sensor and weld it on.

I knew that I wasn't gonna have the most possible power off the base map I just didnt think it would be such a dramatic loss under 4k rpm.

 

It's really strange man. I had basically the same mods as U and dont feel the loss as close as 4k, mine looses steam after around 5/5.5k...and it just inst dramatic either...just takes a litle while longer....until 4th gear that is, it just used to take a WHILE for the car to get to 110

 

if you are on the base map and think you have lost power switch to a more conservative map in the piggyback maps thread. It can't hurt, since it should be a good deal richer than RRM's base map (unless they've changed it), and it may even give you a better result. at the very least you will know it's not lean

unless this is all in your head and the car is running better now it sounds like your tune is off, most likely lean, and you may create problems by driving it. baby it until you can get a handle on your AFR's.

from now on I will recommend a wideband BEFORE buying the piggyback if you can't afford the wideband(or dyno tuning) you shouldn't afford the piggyback.
the 4g69 eclipse ECU is CAN bus, the ECU does not communicate in the same way as ours. yes auto and manual are different, but thats because the PCM had to control things for an auto tranny. all the sensor and their communication with the ECU is the same. I'm not sure you couldn't just strap up the CAN bus version, but I'd bet you can't.

 

SWitch maps or check install. As for software, as long as you did not have to buy it, sorry for the oversight by my guys. Try another map meantime, every car is different I guess as posted above but it has been years since I heard someone say they lost power! Double check the install.

ROAD/RACE

 

Yeah I've double and triple checked the install, its all fine. I just need to baby it until the software gets here tomorrow so I can switch to a more conservative map....