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2004 Ralliart Clutch Problems

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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 08:29 AM
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From: kenosha
Unhappy 2004 Ralliart Clutch Problems

Hello,

I own a 2004 Ralliart that is stock except a K&N Airfilter that currently has 73,000 miles on it. So for a while now I've had this problem with my clutch where if u let out the clutch pedal while the car is in neutral it makes this chattering noise. When u press the clutch pedal in it goes away tho. And just recently I've noticed the clutch is slipping in high gears when I accelerate too hard. like usually 4th and 5th, sometimes 3rd. I feel like this means its time to replace the clutch. Do you guys think so too? I also think the chattering noise is the Throwout bearing? maybe idk. Anyway I was hoping to get some advice on what the problem is and if it does indeed need the clutch replaced any helpful tips would be awesome. Ive never replaced a clutch before but Id like to learn and I dont really have the money to take it to a shop. Lastly what would be a good clutch to install?

Thanks for any help you can give!

PS: Does anyone know how many 2004 ralliarts were made? im interested to know because i dont see like any driving around

Carl

Last edited by supercarl; Jan 15, 2010 at 08:52 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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From: naples,fl
Hi Carl welcome to EvoM, As far as your clutch goes it may be time to change it, as far as chattering goes it does sound like the throwout bearing is going bad, but it could be other things aswell but you didnt mention anything about shifting problems.

As far as changing the clutch, its not that its hard to do its just complex for those who haven done much mechanic work. In the case of the ralliart you must remove 3 out of the 4 motor mounts and dip the engine after taking out the tranny bolts. like i said not hard but it can be for someone who hasnt done it.This also requires you to remove the CV axels from the car.

Before you get any negitive comments on the forums. there are many threads on here that have been opened for reasons such as this. searching is your friend.

As far as clutches go, If you plan to upgrade the car then now would be the time to shell out the cash for a better clutch then OEM,

ACT makes basic clutches and Clutch masters does aswell, they also offer higher stages to

But if your going basic or higher end, and want to get some basic mods done the right way then RRM is the place to go for all your ralliart needs. www.Roadracemotorsports.com
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 09:49 AM
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From: kenosha
Hey thanks for the advice! I bought my car a year or so ago and im glad I found this forum. It looks awesome. But Yeah im not having any shifting problems, so i think its just the clutch. I think i definitly want to upgrade the cltuch while im doin this, but Ive heard the higher performance clutches wear out faster. Is this true? Im looking for better performance but this car is also a daily driver so I want something thats gonna last. I autocross it a little bit but thats about it for racing. Any Recomendations on a clutch? Also are the CV axels hard to remove? IVe had experince working on cars, but nothing this major before.

Thanks again for the help!
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 09:52 AM
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Chatter is the disc that has high points hitting the flywheel or just normal tolerance to wobble around. Nothing to worry about.

Slipping - yep, time to replace. I have the CM Stage 1 in my SVTF. Otter has the same in his RA. Stiffer pedal pressure, but good clutch. A new TOB should come with your clutch. If not, get one. You maybe able to get away with resurfacing your OEM flywheel. If not, or if you want to, you can upgrade to a lighter unit.

First timer - I would get a mechanic or friend who has done a FWD clutch job. Work with them on it.
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SmikeEvo
Chatter is the disc that has high points hitting the flywheel or just normal tolerance to wobble around. Nothing to worry about.

Slipping - yep, time to replace. I have the CM Stage 1 in my SVTF. Otter has the same in his RA. Stiffer pedal pressure, but good clutch. A new TOB should come with your clutch. If not, get one. You maybe able to get away with resurfacing your OEM flywheel. If not, or if you want to, you can upgrade to a lighter unit.

First timer - I would get a mechanic or friend who has done a FWD clutch job. Work with them on it.
So the noise isnt the throwout bearing? I have the same noise while in neutral an i had my flywheel resurfaced an installed an act stage 3. Due to time constraints i could not replace my throwout bearing. I always figured it was the throwout bearing...
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Old Jan 15, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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From: Seat 8A
It's more or less a design flaw in how our TOB/release arm works. Even with a new TOB that rattling will still come and go from time to time.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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From: kenosha
Any recomendations on a flywheel then too? I figure I might as well upgrade while i have it apart instead of just resurfacing. Thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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From: naples,fl
Originally Posted by supercarl
Any recomendations on a flywheel then too? I figure I might as well upgrade while i have it apart instead of just resurfacing. Thanks
Fodanza makes one also i believe RRM offers one
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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I've had chattering in my tranny also, but it wasn't the throwout bearing, it was actually the input shaft bearing which was covered under the powertrain warranty. But my clutch wasn't slipping thats why they replace the input shaft bearing.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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From: kenosha
It was covered under the powertrain warranty? thats cool I think im still under warranty so Ill have to bring it in and get it checked out. It could very well be the Input shaft bearing.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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From: naples,fl
Originally Posted by QuanVN
I've had chattering in my tranny also, but it wasn't the throwout bearing, it was actually the input shaft bearing which was covered under the powertrain warranty. But my clutch wasn't slipping thats why they replace the input shaft bearing.
there is/was a recall on that i believe somewere around here that has the TSB on the imput shaft bearing. something is tweeked with it or is very easy to dmg it. wile putting the tranny back on cause its kinda tricky with the unibody in the way.
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:09 AM
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Hello all, I have been on the site for awhile but never really posted anything. As for the cv axles they aren't hard to get off at all, just mainly something else that has to be done to remove the trans. Once you get the wheels off you should see a big NUT in the center of the rotor. That needs to come off, usually its righty tighty lefty loosy, but I don't know on this car havent ever taken mine off. I am in the same boat as you and will be installing a new clutch next week. (2004 ralliart w/131xxx miles) My clutch seems to be going, it just doesnt seem to require as much push of the clutch pedal before it catches.(does that make sense?) lol. Thanks
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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lol, i just noticed the date was jan of 2010. my bad. But while I posted I might as well ask a question. On my car it does seem to be a little rougher when putting it into gear. Could that very well be the clutch going out as well. Ive only ever worked on rwd cars/trucks. Like i said in my other post my car is a 2004 ralliart w/131xxx miles. And as far as I know the clutch could be factory. But what are some signs I could look for to make sure on this car I know it is the clutch.

Thanks all
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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does it slip?

i took the original clutch out of mine at 160,000km, and it had a bit of material left before hitting the rivets...it was getting close, but it wasn't the bad...the pressure plate springs were ****ed, and the TOB fell apart...lol

are all the gears hard to get into?
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 03:57 PM
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i wanna say that 2-3-4 are a little harder, but that 5th doesnt seem to bad. Not familar with transmissions so that I am a complete Noob.
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