Darewood

I might as well chime in, its been a while since I posted in my own thread :P I have the endeavor TB and it works great. The only time it does some really weird things is if I have the A/C and my throttle goes up and down. Unless that was on our original? Like the other people that have the issue when coming to a stop with the throttle rising. If you reset the battery and then let it learn for 10 minutes (while its already at operating Temp) it seems to work. If you do the learning from a cold engine it freaks out and the throttle never is the same. At least this is what happens for me. Since I've done some upgrades since the TB I've done the reset multiple ways. Right now it works perfectly except for A/C oh and the steering wheel turning causing it to rise.

dacib

iTrader: (1)

Might be a coincidence but I see that all you guys that are still having the little idle issue going up and down, have the ECU reflash. Maybe that has something to do with it. I don't have the reflash and I have no idle issue. Only the first time but no issues ever since with AC on or off turning the wheel or not... Just a thought...

Darewood

quite possibly, but it really doesn't bother me that much that the idle fluctuates.

nekkidlad

iTrader: (4)

normally the a/c on and turning the wheel(to full lock) will cause the idle to change a bit...
when u turn the a/c on it uses a bit of power from the engine to spin the compressor so it cranks up the idle just a bit to make up for it automatically and then while working the a/c cycles on and off automaticqally to keep the temp steady even if u have it at full blast or not...
also when u turn the wheel lock to lock the car u7ses more power to turn the wheels thru the pump, so again it cranks the idle up a bit

so if ur only havign those issues i'd say its normal..(depending on how much it fluctuates...if its lijke under 250 rpm difference i'd say ur fine...if its more than that then ur probably having some kind of issue

id think for sure the reflash would fix it because it should broaden the parameters of what happens if..more air more fuel etc odf the mods... and it lets it adjust more than the factory #'s

Lazukard

iTrader: (2)

The TB swap is not the problem of your idle guys. It's my second Gt tb I put on the car, I swap back to stock and now for GT.

Personnally swap to gt tb is useless for stock engine. Stroke 5mm more the TB and have the same diameter in the intake, and in the head. For feel really a good difference ported everything and tune. Swap tb for stock car it's very a lost of money. And anyway on the ralliary the throttle is controles by the ecu.

For fix idle problem just disconnect battery and do the relearn step idle in good condition. No more problem after the relearn with or without gt tb. The ecu re-flash is not the solution. Michael can fix your idle at the range decided. A/c and steering fluctuation is impossible to fix. Every tension in the power steering strap need HP the have to rise Its rpm. The only way for have no big fluctuation like (1500+) is a good relearn period. Every time you disconnect battery or (scan for remove a cell) your ecu lost is idle information and have to do the relearn.

If you dont trust me, disconnect your battery 10min and start your engine. Now three second after turn On your A/C. Your idle raise. The relearn it done with the A/C off. Many guys with evo have to do this step for fix many problem . If you have wear idle, its wrong step during relearn or forgot to do relearn before ride with your car.

DirtyRalli

What is the biggest size tb i can use on my 05 ra?... Will the evo tb fit cuz i seen skunk made a 68mm tb? If not wat is the best one that will work?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

dude...i'm going to level with you...guys think big throttle bodies make big power...they don't...68mm TB is for a turbo car with a big aftermarket turbo...on a non-turbo car the gain will be minimal...i would go 63mm MAX if you must "upgrade". cause in reality 60mm is plenty big for our engine...

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Not to mention the Evo throttle bodies use a drive by wire at the tb unlike our cars. So you'll have to convert your car just for the swap.

I love playing devils advocate with cranswick so..., I have to disagree with the 63mm tb being the largest to upgrade to. I think the 65mm is more beneficial and alot of people think it's one of the best bang for your buck mods for our car. Although I might not be seeing the negative effects from the 65mm vs. 63mm since my IM and head are fully p&p? Some people have had problems with the tb's but honestly haven't had a single problem with mine.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

you're a special case Lanzer, you have more flow up top, so you can get away with a larger throttle body and bigger exhaust, where such things on a stock head and IM are almost pointless...you also are tuned, no? that makes or breaks "breathing mods"...

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Yeah I have the reflash , but not custom tuned , after my tob and clutch I'll get the wideband and 2.0 cable.

$MIVEC$

I would agree with Lazukard & Cranswick. I swapped the stock TB with the 63mm apart from a slightly better throttle response i can't say this give any noticeable gains, I wasn't expecting any either apart from slightly better breathing which can't be proven without proper equipment. Your air flow will be dictated by the weakest link in the system, in this case the place where there's more restriction. You can put a 68-70mm TB and if your head and exhaust are crap you just wasted money and probably are under-powered now. Apart from the throttle response you get a "swoshing" sound at certain RPM's which is not reason to spend money on it......The TB swap is to get horsepower not to get one more part on your "mod list".

Personally our RA community has one big hole to fill and that is we rely too much on he said & she said for performance parts. I've been considering for a while doing a base dyno run with my current mods which are UDP, CAI and the 63mm TB. I would put back the stock TB, do a couple of runs and then change to 63mm so we have a clear difference on how it affects performance and then maybe go the OBX header/dp way and test again. I'm not saying this is going to happen in the next days or in the next weeks but it's something I'm planning to do. It takes time and money so I'll do it when I can if I can.

Sorry if I'm ranting a bit but it's annoying to hear "timing box feels great", "wow header feels nice when I floor it" or "cam feels great on the butt dyno" when one is not even sure if it gave any noticeable gains after spending $250+. Peak HP is one thing but the whole performance graph is a far bigger factor than peak HP.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

the turbo feels great on the butt dyno

$MIVEC$

MitsuCrazy

I'm thinking about doing the tb upgrade on my car but if i'm not going to see any noticeable power or acceleration gains with a stock exhaust then i don't wanna mess with it. Would it be better to upgrade my exhaust system and headers before doing the tb upgrade?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

it depends on what your "upgrade" entails, our stock exhaust isn't really that restrictive, only in one spot...and i don't think it'll do much for power, throttle response seems to be the "wow factor" here...