Reflash and GT TB = Lean Code
P0171 is caused when the longterm fuel trim reaches +12.5% (max) and the short term fuel trim is still asking for more fuel. I believe it could be related to a failing MAF sensor or a failing front O2. I have seen it on cars where an O2 spacer was incorrectly installed on the front O2 instead of the rear, I've seen it on cars where the MAF was failing. Low fuel pressure could also be a contributing factor but I think it's less likely. The MAF should really adjust for the difference between the GT TB and not. When Brent pulls the Ripp kit off his car Julien left me a GT Throttle body and I'll see if the problem can be reproduced.
-Michael
-Michael
The MAF and front O2 sensor are brand new with about 1K miles on them. I tried to link the problem to a fuel issue but putting on the stock TB was still easier. I run no o2 spacers as I'm running a cat. I will be replacing the fuel injector o-rings and insulators this week. Installing a new Walbro this week as well.
Hack one thing I want to note is that since I've had the reflash I have never really had a solid idle. Event with the stock TB.
Hack one thing I want to note is that since I've had the reflash I have never really had a solid idle. Event with the stock TB.
Last edited by Ralliartize It; Jul 25, 2011 at 08:01 AM.
Evolving Member
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From: Fayetteville, NC stationed at Fort Bragg, NC
I definitely need to switch back to stock TB to see if this works. Ralliartize what mods do you have again? Because a Cold air intake, ported and polished manifold and shouldn't cause a CEL. I've been told this by so many people. and I see others with the same mod not running a CEL. I really do think its the GT TB.
I definitely need to switch back to stock TB to see if this works. Ralliartize what mods do you have again? Because a Cold air intake, ported and polished manifold and shouldn't cause a CEL. I've been told this by so many people. and I see others with the same mod not running a CEL. I really do think its the GT TB.
- UD Pulley
-AEM CAI
-P&P IM
-Reflash
-Delta Cam
-RRM downpipe
Evolving Member
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Fayetteville, NC stationed at Fort Bragg, NC
Someone attempted to "port" the throttle body, about 1/32" of material was removed from the restriction around the throttle plate. This caused an excessive amount of air to leak past the TB at idle. That cast bump is there for a reason... We swapped on a stock GT TB and the idle was significantly improved. It does go loopy when you are rolling, switch on the AC and come to a stop.
I haven't really found a good table for mapping APS to throttle angle so it's tough to "remap" the throttle for a larger throttle body. When I stick it on Brent's car I'll play with all the idle control routines and see what I can come up with.
I would honestly like to try the two out on the dyno and see if it even makes a difference but that's an expensive curiosity.
-Michael
I haven't really found a good table for mapping APS to throttle angle so it's tough to "remap" the throttle for a larger throttle body. When I stick it on Brent's car I'll play with all the idle control routines and see what I can come up with.
I would honestly like to try the two out on the dyno and see if it even makes a difference but that's an expensive curiosity.
-Michael
I've been watching this discussion. I was under the impression that the TB swap would be an easy one for a stock engine pick up a bit of airflow without having to do a reflash. From my limited reading on some of the other Mitsubishi sites, I was under the impression that any of the V6 TBs would be a reasonable upgrade without affecting stock drivability.
The other more typical options don't look so good to me. Here in FL the CAI isn't such a good choice, especially in hurricane season. Can you say "hydrolock?"
Adding an SRI doesn't seem that effective to me either during the summer since the underhood temps here can get really high during the day.
The other more typical options don't look so good to me. Here in FL the CAI isn't such a good choice, especially in hurricane season. Can you say "hydrolock?"
Adding an SRI doesn't seem that effective to me either during the summer since the underhood temps here can get really high during the day.
I've been watching this discussion. I was under the impression that the TB swap would be an easy one for a stock engine pick up a bit of airflow without having to do a reflash. From my limited reading on some of the other Mitsubishi sites, I was under the impression that any of the V6 TBs would be a reasonable upgrade without affecting stock drivability.
The other more typical options don't look so good to me. Here in FL the CAI isn't such a good choice, especially in hurricane season. Can you say "hydrolock?"
Adding an SRI doesn't seem that effective to me either during the summer since the underhood temps here can get really high during the day.
The other more typical options don't look so good to me. Here in FL the CAI isn't such a good choice, especially in hurricane season. Can you say "hydrolock?"
Adding an SRI doesn't seem that effective to me either during the summer since the underhood temps here can get really high during the day.
or you can run the cai with a hydrosheild and/or the aem bypass, although if your front end is stock and you underpanel is still complete you shouldnt have any problems. Unless you drive your car into standing water.
The problem with the SRI is not the header, is the fan. When the fan kicks in all the heat is blown straight into the filter. I am using this app Torque on my android and it reads the coolant and intake manifold temperature through OBD2 port. When the fan kicks in, the intake manifold temperature rises by 20-30 degrees and if you are in traffic stop and go it raises by 50-60 degrees getting to 170-180. I've been trying to make a heat shield that will block that air from the fan but everything that I've come up with it looks crapy and it's not very efficient.
The problem with the SRI is not the header, is the fan. When the fan kicks in all the heat is blown straight into the filter. I am using this app Torque on my android and it reads the coolant and intake manifold temperature through OBD2 port. When the fan kicks in, the intake manifold temperature rises by 20-30 degrees and if you are in traffic stop and go it raises by 50-60 degrees getting to 170-180. I've been trying to make a heat shield that will block that air from the fan but everything that I've come up with it looks crapy and it's not very efficient.
Hmm,
I'm thinking maybe a conical encapsule the routes under the car. Think intercooler pipe the surrounds the filter.



